Can it or do you need to change parts? What parts should be changed and what do they cost?

 

n/a, on stock porting, probably not..

 

300 shot of NOS? for a second or two.
then its time for a rebuild. or two

 

I don't really understand the question. What exactly are you planning on doing?

 

I would like a light-weight car with around 300HP+. Only the non-SE FB is light. I want a N/A without NOS. Can the STOCK parts take 300HP or do I need to change the drivetrain for example and howmuch is it gonna cost me?

 

I would suggest subframe connectors Too stiffen up the chassis a bit. But I have no clue as to iff, I am over board or not. I am gonna do it anyways, I just dont want to risk anything.
LATERZ, Andrew

 

I bet a j-bridge or peripheral port 12A with a Weber could pull it off. I'm not sure if the 12A tranny could take it though. To make that much power you have to revv really high so you will need all of those hardened motor parts from the racingbeat catolog and carbon or ceramic apex seals. I also plan on trying to hit 300+ hp on a N/A 12A motor when i have enough $ that is good luck!

 

A pure race motor might make 300 hp at the flywheel.

Now if you swaped in a 20b, full sidedraft carb setup with P-Ports you could easily make that hp.

 

People have made as much as 350 engine hp from a 13PP with slide throttle injection. I'd say 300 hp is definately possible with a Weber.

Obviously you will need to upgrade the drivetain. A T2 gearbox should do the trick as well as an LSD rear end of some sort.

 

Will the car still be under 1100KG after all the upgrades? That is really immportant to me. The engine doesn't have to be a 12A. I might be able to put a Renesis in it if it's worth the CASH. Or a 20b if it fits.

 

you will need to upgrade the tranny,
and possibly rear end if its a gs,
if its a gsl you can probably get away with the rear end,

300 hp is pretty far fetched for anything streetable,

but the engine itself will handle every bit of it.

carbon apex seals would also be a nice investment

 

Worry about making a engine that can make 00hp first, then worry about the drivetrain.

 

So if you want the Non-SE body, then I take it this is purly for drag racing? since you won't have the better braking system of the GSL-SE.
heck if you can afford a Renisis swap or 20B, then 300HP is a drop in the bucket!

 

If possible I want a light car. A GSL-SE has about the same weight as a FC. I would rater buy a FC than a FB. An FD+mods is to expensive for me. So I thought a non SE version could be the one.

Or do you guys know another way to get a FB or FC lighter than 1000KG? I do want 300HP+ N/A without NOS. I don't care if it's not streetable, coz my mothers car is my daily driver.

 

My SA weighed 1000kg.

To be honest if you want 300hp you're better off putting a turbo engine in, it'll be more reliable and cheaper in the long run.

 

you're talk'n to americans, man. we need weight in pounds not keelograms.

if its for drag racing find an sa (79-80). you could easily get it below 2000lb by removing all the extra crap. sound insulation alone seems 100+. emissions, gone, ac, gone.

 

A stock SE is 2,590 lbs. (1,165.5 kilos). The lightest FC was 2,625 lbs. (1,181.25 kilos). Mind you the lightest FC.

The lightest SA/FB was 2,345 lbs (1,055.25 kilos), but the reason for that is not just power options and cushy seats. SE's have bigger rotors (on all four corners), heavier duty differentials, and a bigger engine/tranny combo.

For a platform, it would be easier to pull options out of the SE to save weight than it would be to add the upgrades to the '81-'85 S model. I have done minor weight reduction, all detailed here http://home.mn.rr.com/linnihan/1st_corner_weighing.htm , and brought the car down to a respectable 2,528 lbs. (1,137.6 kilos) which is very near your weight goal. Replacing the power windows with cranks, a metal sunroof instead of the glass one, no louvers, and some racing seats would definitely bring the car down to the 2,400 lb. (1,080 kilo) range.

Turbo makes the most power in relation to the weight of the car/motor.

The question is, will the car be comfortable to drive around town after you pull enough stuff off to get under the 1K kilo mark? After a certain point in weight reduction on a street car, upping the power to compensate is a better choice.

My solution? A GSL-SE or 12A Turbo, weight reduction until it hurts a little, and swap in a bigger turbo or a TII motor.

http://home.mn.rr.com/linnihan/Rotary%20Turbo.htm

 

1983 FB's are 2290 pounds with 5 speed and no A/C(according to Mazda).

 

To be a ****** here....

GSL-SE have the same transmission and differential as 12A cars, just the gearing is a little different. True, the -SE has heavier brakes and wheels and a slightly heavier engine, but much of the difference is that the curb weight listed is how much the cars weighed with no options.

GSL-SE's came loaded with everything but leather and power steering. 12A cars didn't. So the GSL-SE weight is for a fully loaded car while the 12A weights AREN'T. Put A/C and P/S and all the goodies on a 12A car and it'll weigh fairly close to what a GSL-SE weighs!

There was a long lead-time between the production of a car and its sale, so what Mazda did was ship cars to the US with all of the standard items, and stuff like A/C was added in the US at the port of entry or at the dealership. I don't know what other options were added like this, but I do know that A/C was one of them. Since all GSL-SE's had A/C they'd put it on at the factory.

 

My source is the Sportscar color history book on the weights. The John Ball book gives the '79 4 sp. S model curb weight as 2,350 lbs, and the SE as approximately 2,640 lbs.

peejay: are you saying that a lsd weighs the same as a non-lsd? Or that a 13B flywheel and counterweight are the same weight? I'm not being a wise *** here. I really want to know. Seems to me that they should weigh more.

The SE intake is considerably bigger than a 12A carbie as well. The SE holds 4 quarts of oil above and beyond the 12A models, and an additional quart of oil over the '83.

Basically my point is that the SE comes with the performance gear to begin with, which you will want if you plan on pushing 300 hp. I certainly would want disc breaks, lsd, 14" wheels, better lug pattern, etc. Personally, I would rather pull off the parts I don't want than put the parts I do want on.

The difference (give or take 50 lbs. depending on your source) is mostly options, with the other bit of difference being useable performance gear. Plus the TII engine swap (if this is the chosen route) would be easier given the GSL-SE parts needed.

If we are looking at just building a fast ultra-light rotary drag machine, and the labor involved isn't an issue, I'd do a Spitfire or a Fiat Spider, or a MG Midget. But IMHO the convenience of having it all and deciding what goes bye-bye is a better deal. If you are going for light weight, lets not split hairs over 50 lbs that can easily be done away with.

$.02

 

if he's gonna be racing even if he chooses the 12a he can still get the lsd
im sure he will go with a gsl or at least get a gsl rear.

gsl and gsl-se are the same rears,just diferent gears,

as for the tranny's?????

i know their the same 1st - 4th "gear ratio"

 

Trannies are the same, the only difference besides the gears is the SE has a thingie hanging off the left side of the bellhousing. BFD.

I don't understand what you mean about flywheels etc? The different in imbalance is there, yes, but we're not going to be breaking the bank with it. That's like saying a car will be faster when it's a quart low on oil because it weighs less

 

actually that is something like he's saying. weights weight. like f1 and how much gas they can fill up with. anyway i thought the sa frame, bumper, or something of the likes was a little smaller or different. i noticed the sa's lighter assembly weighed a little less.

 

Actually the FB bumpers weigh a little less, but the SA bumpers look a hell of a lot better.

What you have to realize is that there is deadweight and there is functional weight. You can't compare a 300lb bodybuilder and a 300lb couch potato.

 

Don't worry about gutting the car of dead weight till you decide what FULL engine setup your going to use. Removing weight is relatively easy. Worry about the drive train components first and decide what you want. Drivability or just 300hp@8000rpm? Heavier hardware usually lasts longer just so you know...