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not likely; it would be a rather expensive engine to build. (someone brought this up somewhere else; maybe in the group buy, idk why?)
Anyways, if you're gonna spend $8.5k on an e-shaft, a couple grand on an ECU, and all the other money that would go into it, you would PROBABLY want to drop it in an FD, or something else, lighter than an FC (I've heard estimates of it being a $20k engine to build and make usable, I believe)
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Originally Posted by b-rex 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by arcel
men... i want to have those...
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That kit's pretty cheap considering all that time and headaches you would save.
You pay big to play big.
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Johnson
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89 Jeep Comanche - Goes where the 7 can't
there was a dude on here probably a couple years ago that custom built one from two 13bs and an adaptor for the e-shaft. even posted diagrams how to do it.
There are only 2 cars I can think of or have seen before that have a 4 rotor engine:
- Mazda 787B Le Mans car
- BMW drag car in Australia, full custom engine and monster turbo. Pumps out 1400hp and does sub 7 quarters.
The next engine for my car is a 4 rotor...Been planning it for years, but generally I don't talk about it. Years ago I spent quite a lot of time with the machine shop discussing a 4 rotor 12A, but now with kits available for the 13B I can save a lot of headache by using 13B parts. It's not really that expensive, all things considered.
Apparently this 91 FC racecar had a 4 rotor n/a and made i think around 600hp at the flywheel. I have something with some more information on it but i cant find it right now ill post it later.
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-Crystal White 91 Rx-7 automatic NA (DD, basic mods, parted out, sold)
-Arctic Silver 88 Rx-7 5 speed NA (unfinished project, parted out, sold)
-White 89 Rx-7 5 speed NA (blown engine...RIP)
-99 Pontiac Grand Prix GT (current DD)
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88 Turbo Vert - S4 Turbo II engine, S5 turbocharger, full Racing Beat exhaust, FCD, Greddy Profec B Spec II, HKS SSQV, horrible paint and one seat.
The next engine for my car is a 4 rotor...Been planning it for years, but generally I don't talk about it. Years ago I spent quite a lot of time with the machine shop discussing a 4 rotor 12A, but now with kits available for the 13B I can save a lot of headache by using 13B parts. It's not really that expensive, all things considered.
I was contemplating the same idea. I have a good friend that has 20 years working in a machine shop as well. The idea has been thrown around some about a 4 rotor 13b with a channeled water pump to cool it instead of connecting to the front iron. Basically a water pump with a manifold that goes to each individual iron. Without getting much into detail this is it in a nutshell.
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S5 TII Engine, full bridge, Super Seals, T4 S472, FMIC, MSD, Tial, Devil's Own, Megasquirt, WB02, Double Pass Radiator, HKS Super Blow Off Valve, Holley N20 Wet Kit, Serpentine Belt Kit, FD seats, 6pt Cage, Impul RS wheels, Greddy Mani
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eh...other than shock value what would be the point? I have a 20B in mine, it was relatively cheap and easy, and I am making 600whp, getting 16+ mpg, still have decent weight distribution and balance, and can drive it to work if I want. I am not even pushing my setup, and already I feel like it is too much power for the chassis, I cant imagine ever needing another rotor....
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87 TII 20B 575/481 untuned. designed by me, built my me, fabbed by me, tuned by me
02 Triumph SpeedTona
90 Tracker- off road monster
52 Piper Tri-Pacer
Isin't a 4-rotor impractical? Won't the long e-shaft flex at high RPM? Woulnd't you be able to get much more reliable power from a 20BT? Or even a 13BT?
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Apparently this 91 FC racecar had a 4 rotor n/a and made i think around 600hp at the flywheel. I have something with some more information on it but i cant find it right now ill post it later.
I was contemplating the same idea. I have a good friend that has 20 years working in a machine shop as well. The idea has been thrown around some about a 4 rotor 13b with a channeled water pump to cool it instead of connecting to the front iron. Basically a water pump with a manifold that goes to each individual iron. Without getting much into detail this is it in a nutshell.
That's been my plan as well. In the same sense, getting oil to the middle and front bearing is a bit of a pig but not hard with a dry sump system. Also keeps the oil pan from being a pain.
Quote:
Originally Posted by patman
eh...other than shock value what would be the point? I have a 20B in mine, it was relatively cheap and easy, and I am making 600whp, getting 16+ mpg, still have decent weight distribution and balance, and can drive it to work if I want. I am not even pushing my setup, and already I feel like it is too much power for the chassis, I cant imagine ever needing another rotor....
Meh, what's the point to anything really? This is not meant as an insult, but I am so bored of the 20B that many of the conversions I see only get a passing glance. Not to say that it's not a good amount of work or worthless in any way. Far from it. But I'm not interested in having "another" 20B 2nd gen. I want 4 rotors of NA PP madness...
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Try passing emissions with that!!
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