J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

A little background:

I fished out an old TII from a junkyard a few weeks back. Managed to get it complete for $700. Some of you might think I am crazy, but that car is worth twice that in parts, which was my original plan. THEN I got into the car and realized that it was in a WHOLE lot better shape that I had figured.

Make a long story short, its a 100% original TII that runs and pulls like MAD. Not too mention every peice of electronics on it works. So I am thinking of keeping it, but the problem is, it WONT IDLE.

So in J-Rats befuddled and alcohol fueled mind, I decided that no FC will ever beat me in a battle of wits, and I proceeded to tackle the problem. Here is whats been done already:

AFM: Swapped out
ECU: Swapped out
TPS: Checked
Injectors: cleaned
Fuel tank: replaced
Fuel Pump: replaced
Oil: Changed
AWS: Eliminated
Fuel Filters: Changed
Air Pump: Re-installed
Codes Pulled
TID Checked (its perfect)
Bad vac lines all replaced


I finally got it to idle (LIKE CRAP) at around 1200 or so, and then it hit me, after 3 weeks of fiddling with this, I never checked for intake leaks with Carb Cleaner (my preferred method). So I started spraying, and lo and behold, once I hit the EGR area, the damn idle jumps to 3000 almost INSTANTLY.

So here is where I am at now.. I replaced the EGR with another one, and the same problem exists (two bad EGRs?). So I am going to ACE to get some sheet metal and I am making a damn block-off plate. You cant even GET new EGRs from Mazda, so if the emissions guy bitches at me, I am telling him to take it up with MANA.

Unlike 99% of the rest of the threads in this section, I will be SURE to post what fixes my problem.

BTW, stock ECU powered cars SUCK!!

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Injector o-rings? The primary injector o-rings might not be sealing and allowing an intake leak. Or like you suggest, it could in fact be two bad EGR valves.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, those are brand new too! They were replaced when I took the injectors to be cleaned and flowed. I rechecked everything too, because I have pinched one before.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Well, if you sprayed your EGR and it caused the idle to change, I would guess it's the EGR. Considering it's a ~20 year old part it wouldn't surprise me if you got 2 bad ones.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Yep, just got back from the hardware store.. Got some aluminum plate and some blades... Going to make a block off plate.

Taking off the UIM for the sixth time in a week.. Yay....

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

also did you check timing?

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

I'm going to assume that sucks on a TII. For me it's 2 vacuum lines, 2(?) plugs, throttle cable, 4 nuts, and 1 bolt. Not exactly time consuming. Although 6 times even for me would be annoying.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Affirmative... Removed the CAS, tested it, cleaned it, and restabbed it I.A.W. the FSM. Only issue here is the car wont idle under 1200, so verifying the timing is impossible.

Good call! I should have added that to my list of things I already did!

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Its a little more involved in a TII. Not what I would consider to be a major project, just terrifically annoying after about the third or fourth time...

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Oh, and the compression checked good, lets clear that one up too while we are at it.

Rat

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Just discovered that the cold start assist is working, and not to well at that.

Just ripped that crap out...

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

$700 bucks for a running complete tII ?? How can you be nuts ?? I think youd be nuts not to buy it!!

Good luck!

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Did you check the grounds?

FC3MAN

is that cold start idle up on the throtle body stuck?ya know the one I'm talking about,the one with the coolant lines on it?I'm not being a smart *** here either,I can't remember the technical name right now sometimes after sitting a while they get all crappy and stick and won't retract with eng warm,it's happened to me with junkyard cars,that are perfect other than vac lines and all the normal stuff.....just an idea....and yeah six times taking the UIM of gets old,but $700 what a ******* steal that's sweet!!!

loskeezy

What was the cause of it not holding an idle?? mine wont hold any idle & stalls but it is n/a...leaning towards brake vac. leak.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Yes sir, all grounds present and looking good!

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Still havent started it after deleting the EGR valve. Had to go to another town to look at another FC. Just got back.

RETed

Lots of stupid **** back there...
There's like two idle solenoids and the vacuum line back to the brake booster.
Also tons of vacuum lines...FPR...TB...oil injection...etc.


-Ted

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Tell me about it.. Everytime I have to remove that cork soaking UIM I cant help but get a little mad..

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Well, the EGR is no fix.. Still idles like crap.. BETTER, but still like crap. I can spray Carb cleaner in the areas of the LIM and the oil injectors (under the UIM) and get it to idle up, so now I am going to pull up the UIM (again....), and re-do all the vac lines. While I am at it, it looks like I am going to yank the LIM and re-gasket it. Going to also pull up the injectors and re-inspect them. What a nightmare...

Valkyrie

Did you check to make sure the anti-afterburn valve on the ACV (if you've still got it) isn't busted? Bypass the Relief solenoid straight to a vacuum source and this will disable it... if the idle changes when hook it straight to vacuum I'd say that's one of your problems.

slpin

iTrader: (9)

afm

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

How about checking the ignition coils? Maybe swap them with a set that worked perfect in another car?

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

would this explain how the idle runs up if I spray carb cleaner under the UIM?

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Again, this would not explain the idle run up while the car is sprayed with carb cleaner. I also verified spark on all wires...