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I was think of getting an RTek 2.0. I am a novice at tuning and value driving my non-blown up car. On the other hand I like to tinker. I will most likely get a 2.0 but am uneasy about how the "default" settings are. I have and like the 1.7 I have now. I really want the 2.0 but I'm still tring to figure out how to tune the timing and stuff.
I guess want I'm looking for is a 2.0 already set to the 1.7 fuel and timing corrections. That way I know I'm starting from a safe spot.
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Setting the 2.0 to 550/720 and moving the staging RPM to 3500 will get you the same fueling as the 1.7. Timing on the other hand is a different story, unless you are running less than 9 psi. The boost retard is not in the 2.0, you will have to go in and manually retard the timing in the upper load levels.
Timing is shown in degrees. To match the 1.7, it would be 1 degree per PSI above 9. The "problem" is that the timing tables are RPM vs load, not RPM vs boost so it's a little more complicated. You'll need to log the timing indexes and boost to get a basic cross reference. But boost and load are only loosely related so it's not an exact science..
Setting the 2.0 to 550/720 and moving the staging RPM to 3500 will get you the same fueling as the 1.7. Timing on the other hand is a different story, unless you are running less than 9 psi. The boost retard is not in the 2.0, you will have to go in and manually retard the timing in the upper load levels.
That helps a little. With the timing, is that leading and trailing? Split? This is where I start getting confused. I agree with The Wankle, an example or preset values would be great.
That helps a little. With the timing, is that leading and trailing? Split? This is where I start getting confused. I agree with The Wankle, an example or preset values would be great.
There has been discussion about adding the boost retard back in, but not too sure if/when it will happen.
There are two "real" tables. Leading and Trailing. Split is a 'virtual' table of the difference between the two. It's not actually a table in the ECU, it's calculated on the fly in the PocketLOGGER program. Anyway, for a specific cell, you would want to change both the leading and trailing the same amount so the split stays the same.
Hmm. no. Actually I have no idea what you are talking about.
There is no timing retard chart. Unless you are talking about the Timing Retard parameter that you can log. If thats the case, then no. That has to do with the knock sensor.
The split is simply the mathematical difference between the Leading timing and the Trailing timing. If a particular cell is set for 25.3 degrees on the leading table and 16.8 deg on the trailing, then the split would be calculated to 8.5 degrees. The ECU doesn't care what the split is. It's simply a different way to view the relationship between the leading and trailing timing.
There has been discussion about adding the boost retard back in, but not too sure if/when it will happen.
There are two "real" tables. Leading and Trailing. Split is a 'virtual' table of the difference between the two. It's not actually a table in the ECU, it's calculated on the fly in the PocketLOGGER program. Anyway, for a specific cell, you would want to change both the leading and trailing the same amount so the split stays the same.
I like the idea about adding the 9psi+ retard back in. At least an option or something.
About changing the timing, I feel better about getting a 2.0 now. As an example, would this statment be correct? "At 10psi retard leading 1 AND trailing 1."
it appears not to be mathmatical. You will need to log the "Timing Index" and "Boost". Then above 9psi in the Log, you will see where they match up. I will try loging today.
It'll be fairly linear for a given motor but every motor will be different. If your ported or have intake/exhaust etc you'll see higher "timing index" values for a given boost than a stocker would see at the same boost.
so how crucial is it to change the timing if I'm running 12psi? Assuming I'm running safe afr's @ 12lbs, is my motor in severe danger if I do nothing to the timing?
I would vote for adding the "boost retard" back in to the 2.0. Or at the very least, some sort of definitive guidance as to correctly setting the 2.0 to emulate this feature. You know, for us stupid people.
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1988 TII RX-7 Tenth Anniv. Ed.
RB Turbo back exh, HKS CAI, RB Fr/Rr Sway bars, RB Frt Strut Brace, Power Slot Rotors, Hawk HPS, Rtek 2.0 ECU w/Palm Pocketlogger, HKS Twin Power Ignition, RB Race Wires, HKS Iridium Plugs, HKS SSQ BOV, Tokico Illumina V w/RB springs, Cobra Imola S/GT Seats, Autopower 4 Point Roll Bar, Schroth 6 Point Harnesses, Mazdatrix Short Shifter, WedsSport TC005 16x8 rims, Kumho ECSTA 225/50WR16 V710's
1993.5 Premier Edition Supra TT Hardtop (rare, oh yeah)
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I would vote for adding the "boost retard" back in to the 2.0. Or at the very least, some sort of definitive guidance as to correctly setting the 2.0 to emulate this feature. You know, for us stupid people.
Just go through and retard the timing map curve above 3 PSI (around 50 to 60% load, check your data logs to match up the % load to PSI) all the way to 100% load. Follow the rule of 15 PSI = 15 degrees BTDC.
14 = 16
13 = 17
12 18
11 19
10 20
9 21
and so on until 2-3 PSI where the stock map is OK
Following this will be safer than the boost retard.
BTW once they update the 2.0 it will be easy to tune the timing safely using the above rule. The are going to give an option to tune the timing map with RPM vs. Boost instead of RPM vs. Load like it is now.
BTW once they update the 2.0 it will be easy to tune the timing safely using the above rule. The are going to give an option to tune the timing map with RPM vs. Boost instead of RPM vs. Load like it is now.
Ed
When is this going to happen? Xmas is around the corner and the car will be in storage until spring. Meaning I will have a few months to buy parts and get them installed. Is this "update" a PDA software update or ECU hardware update?
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