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I just ordered the rtek 2.0 and have a few questions.
1- I have 680 primarys and if I am supposed to use 550 as the preset injector will I be able to get the proper A/F at low throttle as the 680 to 550 is a 25% diffrence?
2- when using the PDA program, will I see the stock timing map as it would be from the stock ECU. and if so do I just change the numbers that are there? I ask this because if the stock timing numbers aren't there, I would have no idea what they were and how to get the proper timing.
3- I've downloaded the PLviewer and looked at a couple of logs by people, does it explian anywhere on how to understand these graphs?
I can't think of anymore right now.
cheers
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84 gsl-se turbo s4 block,rtek 2.0,255lph fuel pump,surge tank,Bar and plate front mount IC,lightened flywheel,3 puck clutch,s5 super H TO4B upgrade,RB DP, MP and under axel 3" exhaust,t2 tranny,ect........
&&&&&&&2- when using the PDA program, will I see the stock timing map as it would be from the stock ECU. and if so do I just change the numbers that are there? I ask this because if the stock timing numbers aren't there, I would have no idea what they were and how to get the proper timing.**********************8
The stock numbers are there and after you change them and want to go back to the stock numbers (and you did not write down what stock was) you can reinitialize the RTEK to get back to stock settings.
I was worried that if the numbers weren't there I would have no clue what timing numbers should be there.
But I downloaded the Haltech program and a few maps, from them I was able to get a good idea of what the timing maps look like. and even though they have more points to adjust, I can still get a good idea for a timing map for the rtek 2.0.
what about me using 680 primarys will I be able to tune them down or up enough to get a good A/F ratio???
I have not got the rtek yet but I downloaded the manual and I can see some pics of a fuel map, but it looks like it starts at 2000rpm or so and does not go to more than 7000rpm , is this going to affect my tuning below and above those points??
No, you can change the lower rpms, like the idle richness/leaness. Same with over 7grand although I have not done that yet.
I can't answer the part about the 680's in the primary position. I'm sure Henrik or turboii will give an answer later.
Tomorrow I MIGHT scan a jpg of the timing on the Palm. Maybe. Depends. I got a Zeitronix today and might be fiddling around with it all day instead. I hope it's as good as the TechEdge. Gonna use a Palm to read the afr.
That's one very good thing I like about the Palm vs a laptop. My laptop.....when I'm driving in broad daylight, I can't for the sake of me read the screen. The daylight makes it useless unless I hold it just at the right angle to view the screen. I used to try to read data from a Pico data saving device and it was a waste of time and effort. With the Palm the readings are easily read and can be downloaded from the Palm to the desktop computer at home for viewing the graphs.
Same gripe about the TechEdge wideband. Can't read the red leds numbers in broad daylight unless you put your hand over it to shade it. Dittos on SAFC's. The screen is too glaring. You have to hold it at the right angle to get the glare off it.
So that's what I think about things you didn't mentiion.
This is the stock settings. As you can see it is not all the settings. You have to use the arrows to move to the higher settings. And I have not fiddled with them.
They don't show below 1054 but you know that is stock timing 5 and 20.
Again I know zip about timing. Only what I've seen. Usually at a steady speed, say sixty or seventy mph the lead and trail will be almost together. Like 31 degrees advanved. Step on the pedal and the timing goes down in the teens. Like I said, I know zip about timing and what someone should advance/retard to.
Got a Zeitronix wideband with the Pocketlogger software yesterday to go with the Palm and installed it on my old 86, bone stock n/a for a look see. Seems to work just fine except I need to put it on one of the turbo cars.
The n/a has airpump/cats etc. The airpump is messing with the wideband readings. Reads in the 14.7 range at idle, which is a false reading because of the airpump. Pulled the blue relief solenoid connector and it drops to the real deal of 13.2afr. In other words its unusable on this car unless I disable the airpump which forces me to take the cat out so I don't ruin it. Blah, blah. Rambling Really don't wanna mess with the n/a car. Too many irons in the fire for me.
Here's what timing looks like with a cold engine. Factory retards the timing during start to minus 25 on both.
Second jpg is timing at idle and a really too low of an idle. I've fixed that idle deal.
The third jpg is only interesting in one respect. All I did, at idle, was turn the a/c on and walla, the timing advanced. I did not know or have a clue that the timing did this at idle when the a/c was turned on. Only happens at idle. Turn a/c on at speed and there is no change.
Just in case: You can download the Palm to a laptop. BUT you need to download from the internet a JAVA program (free) and jump thru a small hoop or two. Be sure to read this: http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.php?pid=utilities
Maybe you can download it while waiting for the return of your ECU. The Palm is quite usable without it, but for downloading to the desk computer you NEED it.
It's something that I did not consider until I'd had the RTEK for a couple of days.
I've got the PLviewer and have looked at a couple other peoples logs.
can I do somthing on the Palm while I wait?
I just got back from the post office, sent the ECU express will be there in 4 days and then a day turn around and probably like another 7-9 more days. I'm looking forward to having it.
thanks for the info Hailers
still would like to know the best route of attack on those 680cc primarys.
Hey guys, sorry for the delay. The 680 primaries will be fine, you'll be a couple of percent leaner than stock but this can be taken out by adjusting the AFC table. Fueling during cranking adjusted to compensate for 720 primaries but runs very rich as is so shouldn't be a problem there either.
so your saying I should use the 720/720 preset that would make sence? I had my old S-AFC at -25% down low to compensate for the 680's so the -25% reduction on the preset 720/720 will be pretty close to what I need, then tune the AFC on the rtek for the fine tune.
I thonk u should set them too 550 and lean them out from there. If u go to 720s the ecu and gonna automatically lean out thinking u have 720s and u might run too lean.
You might be right Xbox but I think henrik has said that the 720/720 preset will lower the primarys -25% and the 680's are very close to 25% bigger than the 550's so I think using the 720 preset would work. also if I were to use the 550's, with them being 25% bigger I would not be able to correct them with only 15% correction on the rtek 2.0.
But I could be wrong, what is your thinking on this?
Use the 720/720 and fine tune in the rpm range from 2k to your staging point if needed. Do you happen to know the PN's of the 680s btw? I've read several places that the 680 and 720's are the same injector just rated at different pressures.
Linear Mode
