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Alright, from my understanding you can clear a flooded engine on the 2.0 by pressing the gas pedal to the floor and cranking...when the flood is clear...release the gas pedal and crank to start. Alright, well my fuel pump is rewired (according to the write-up on 1300cc.com) I also have a fuel cut switch. Anyway, my car flooded awhile ago so I decided to try out the flood clear feature on the 2.0. I pressed the pedal and cranked....nothing. I tried it several times to get the car to crank, but it would never quite catch, and start....so I flipped my manual switch...cranked the car, it started...flipped the switch back on and I was good to go. So my question I guess is, would that rewire screw up the built in flood clear on the 2.0, or am I doing something wrong?
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1988 Turbo II
Street ported motor / Feed 60-1 Hybrid / RB turbo back
Custom FMIC w/ HKS SSQV BOV
Walbro 255 / 550cc/750cc / KOYO Rad.
RB 6-puck sprung clutch / MazdaTrix Short Shifter
Rtek 2.0 / Innovate LC-1/XD-1 WBo2 / AEM Tru-Boost Controller
hey, just went out and did a log with the car off/ign on
The tps ran from 29% at idle to 95% at WOT. It hit 95% at about quarter pedal...but 95% is as high as it would go. Does it have to hit 100% for the fuel kill for the flood clear to work? If so, why wouldn't it be hitting 100%?
All the flood clear does is prevent injection while the engine is cranking. This is to push
fresh air through the engine and with it any fuel in the chambers. Ignition is still active
so it may try to start part way through this process. So, put the pedal to the floor, crank
for a few seconds. Then try to start as you would normally. I'm not quite following what
you mean by "pressed the pedal and cranked....nothing" - we're you expecting it to start
with the pedal to the floor?
yes I was expecting it to start, and here's why. When I use my manual fuel kill switch to start the car...I turn the switch off...crank the car...it will crank for a few seconds and then start, which to me seems to be when it's burnt off enough of the fuel to get a good mixture. Once the car starts, I immediately flip the switch on and I'm good to go...if I don't flip the switch on rigt after starting....the car will of course die because there is no fuel being pumped.
So, is this not how the fuel cut in the rtek works? I was assuming it just killed the fuel and that the car would start with the pedal pressed...once it started, then release the pedal and the fuel would turn back on and be good to go. If this is wrong...please explain how I SHOULD be using the flood clear.
Its a matter of where the fuel is being cut. When you cut power to the pump, there is still residual pressure in the line which will continue to get injected as you crank. As the pressure drops the mixture will get leaner and leaner to the point where the mixture is right and it may start briefly giving you time to flip the switch back on.
The Rtek turns off the injectors, not the pump. Absolutely no fuel is injected when you hold your foot on the floor so the flood should clear faster than with the pump cutoff. Even if it does 'catch' once on the fuel thats already in the chamber, all the fuel is going to be burnt off the first time it fires so it won't continue to run. So as Henrik said, crank for a few seconds at WOT, then release the throttle and try to start as you normally would.
awesome...i'll give it a try next time the car floods. The manual switch I have now does indeed kill the fuel pump, so that may explain why it'll start for a couple seconds and give me enough time to flip the switch back on.
i intentially flooded it out to see if it would work and it seemed like it didnt. i would flood it, then i would press the petal all the way down and it wouldnt even try to start (you can tell when it trys to "kick" on). ive read and tried everything posted above also and still nothing.
the other weird part is that when my car isnt on, (key just on) when i press the pedal almost all the way (like 3/4 way) the tps % shows all the way up to 98% but when i press the pedal further(towards the floor), it drops down to 70%-80%. the part that makes it wierd is that it doesnt do this while datalogging or while the car is on. wtf????
ill try it again & post more specific information on how and when it doest it tonight.
The car will not start with the pedal to the floor because the injectors aren't firing.
Thats the whole point. Pedal to the floor, crank it to clear the extra fuel, and then let go and try to start agian.
Does the ECU have to SEE the Start signal on pin 3B (memory here) for that method to work? Or is it just TPS related.
By the way, it does work. Just curious.
If the thing is flooded, and you put the pedal to the floor and turn the engine over with the starter, the fuel that caused the flood should ignite (while your foot is still to the floor), giving you a clue to lift you foot up off the pedal and idle the engine.
^mine doesn't do that...if it gets flooded...I can floor it and crank and it just keeps sounding like a flooded engine. It's never worked right. I still have to use my manual switch. My tps reads 98% when floored btw.
trying that still doesnt work. as soon as i disconnect the fuel pump is fires up. wtf???
Your symptoms sound like mine. That fuel cut has never worked for me. I have to flip my manual switch that kills my fuel pump...crank the car and it will fire right up, then flip the pump back on before it shuts off. I can't get the 2.0's to work at all. I floor it and crank it and crank it (same as when I used to pull the EGI fuse)...then let off the pedal and it still just sounds flooded....I flip my manual switch and she fires up....so i dunno what the problem is.
Sounds like maybe the start signal is not getting to the ECU...
Pin 3B on the ECU is the start signal wire. Its color is black with a BLUE stripe on it.
PUll the plug off the ECU. Put the meter neg lead on a known ground like one of the studs that hold the ECU in place. Put the positive meter lead in the socket with the Black/Blue wire. It should be on the bottom row or the harness plug, far right.
Meter on vdc. In neutral, turn the key to Start. You should see batt voltage on the meter as long as the key is held to Start.
I kinda goofed. If one has a RTEK2.0 he can go to the diagnostic screen a view the START signal as he puts the key to START. If he sees a check next to START when the key is to START, then the signal is getting to the ECU.
IF someone does not have a 2.0, then he can just put a meter on pin 3B and look to see if 12vdc shows up as the key is put to START.
IF you have no START signal at the ECU, then the ECU will use the AFM signal for fuel during starting. That is NOT good. Normally the ECU uses a internal map that uses rpm, waterthermo sensor signal and the 12vdc showning up on pin 3B during STARTING.
If the ECU is using the afm for fuel duing starting, it'll be too lean a mixture, especially with a cold engine. BUt with a very hot engine, it might actually help to not have that Start signal on pin 3B.
Takes but moments to check out with a meter. Beats wondering day and night about it and getting nowhere.
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