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Are there changes to the fuel maps in Stage 1.x upgrades?
No. The only differences in fueling are that we allow the primary injectors to run 5% more duty cycle, and on the Stage 1.7, we compensate for 720cc secondaries. The fuel maps are not touched.
Are there changes to the fuel maps in Stage 2.x upgrades?
If the correction map is zeroed out, the fueling is exactly the same as stock, with the exception of if you have something other than stock injectors selected, then the ECU will compensate for them, but the target A/F values will remain very close to stock even with the bigger injectors installed. Obviously once changes are made to the fuel correction map by the user, this is no longer the case.
What injectors can I run?
The Stage 1.7 upgrade expects at least 720cc secondaries.
The Stage 1.8 upgrade expects at least 720cc primary and secondaries.
The Stage 2 ECU upgrades have injector presets built in. This allows you to run any of these preset configurations of injectors without having to manually lean the A/F mixture to compensate for the larger injectors. By simply checking the correct checkbox in the software, the ECU is "told" what injectors are installed and automatically calculates injector pulse widths accordingly.
Can I use injectors larger than 720cc??
Injectors larger than 720s (Stage 1.7/1.8) or the presets (Stage 2) can be used but they aren't as "plug-n-play".
Never use an injector that flows LESS than the preset you are using. i.e. if you are using 550/680cc injectors, use the 550/550 preset and use the Fuel Correction Map to lean the mixture. Using the 550/720 setting can cause a lean condition and may result in engine failure. Never use less than 720cc Secondaries when running the Stage 1.7 chip.
Injectors larger that 720cc are commonly used and can be used with any Rtek7 upgrade. For Stage 2, you can use the 720cc preset to partially compensate for the larger injectors and then you will need to use the Fuel Correction Map to compensate the rest of the way. With Stage 1.x chips, you will need to have a fuel controller like an AFC to enable you to lean out the larger injectors.
Also note that having a large difference between the primary and secondary injector size is not recommended as they make tuning the secondary transition very hard to tune. It's always better to go with 4 slightly larger injectors, than small primary and very large secondary.
Can I use a laptop to tune the ECU instead of a Palm PDA?
Not at this time.
How much boost can Rtek upgrades handle?
The stock MAP sensor will only read up to 1 BAR (14.7 psi). While you could run boost pressures above that (with the proper knowledge and A/F monitoring), you are past the point that the ECU would 'know' that you are above 1 BAR. This somewhat limits the ECU's ability to make corrections and is past the point of the Stage 2 user adjustable maps (for now).
How much HP can I the Rtek handle/make?
It all depends on your supporting mods and ability to tune safely. The Rtek upgrades don't make power directly, but enables your other mods to make HP safely. The Rtek Stage 1 chips add a cushion of safety when you start pushing things. Stage 2 adds fuel and timing control to that safety cushion for added flexibility. Monitoring with a W/B o2 is very highly recommended. They are cheap enough nowadays that if you blow up your motor trying to tune without one, you should be hung from a tree, a rotor tied to your feet and apex seals shoved under your fingernails.
How much adjustability is in the Stage 2.0?
Fuel correction is +/- 15% duty cycle at 100 points. This adjustment is on top of the correction made automatically when you slelect other than stock injector presets. i.e. When you select an preset that has 720cc injectors, the ECU removes ~25% from the duty cycle to compensate for the larger injectors. Then you also have the +/- 15% in the fuel correction map for a total adjustment range of 40%.
Timing adjustments are not limited. You have direct access to the stock timing maps.
Does the Rtek eliminate the AFM?
Currently it does not. Stay tuned.
Can I go back to stock fueling/timing?
With the Stage 1.x upgrades, going back to stock requires soldering. The stock chips must be put back and any PC board mods must be undone.
With the Stage 2.0, to go back to nearly completely stock, you can initialize the ECU from within the software and, poof, you are stock again.
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When the 2.0 s4 TII is recieved directly from you guys. Does it have the timing maps for higher boost already pre-tuned up to a 15 psi? If so, how conservative did you guys go with the timing?
ANd both leading and trailing timing maps can be tuned?
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Since the ecu is sent back with the same maps loaded, will it just plug back in and run? In other words does one have to use a Palm to initially set it up again before starting? I ask because I don't have a Palm at the moment but wanted to get this done and back in the car running. Then a little later get the Palm and start tweaking. I'm hoping that it will plug right back in and run like stock.
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"Torque is a variable. Horsepower is the answer!"
"If you aren't testing, you are guessing."
"Cheap usually costs more and rushing things usually takes more time."
Without a Palm, can I just plug the ecu back in and have a running car?
I just bought mine today, but from the instructions, it does not sound like it. At least the instructions do not explicitly say that. There are a couple settings that need to be verified upon initial connection.
Don't over analyze my question. I fully intend to get one. However I wanted to know that I could have a running car for the week or so that it may take me to get one and get it set up. It has nothing to do with not wanting to get one. I don't want my car down any longer than the ecu is gone and if I can't get a Palm before the ecu is back, I still want to drive the car. That's the whole point of the question. Can I drive the car (for however many days necessary until I get a Palm) by merely just plugging the unit back in or not? It appears I can't which throws a wrench into things. I'm very busy right now as I'm getting married in 2 months and will everything going on right now, I don't have alot of time to do anything. I do have time to remove the ecu and send it off and then reinstall it later.
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"Torque is a variable. Horsepower is the answer!"
"If you aren't testing, you are guessing."
"Cheap usually costs more and rushing things usually takes more time."
I'm curious if im limited to the flow of the AFM or am I able to tune with map sensor as load beyond the AFM ability. Hurry up with getting rid of the AFM if this was done I would have bought the 2.1 already