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Adam it is an Allison / Rolls Royce C-20B insulation blanket. It goes between the fuel control / governor system and the turbine. We use to scrap them when the center lower section wore badly. I cut it in half and eliminate the bad section. I may be able to find one for you.
Barry
Dang the last time I worked on a Rolls Royce engine was a RB211 (L1011)& Spey,Tay (Fokker)---- Now its albout GE's + Pratts!
Looking great man!!! I enjoyed talking with you at Deal Gap! Barry and Jonathan told me to come see your thread... wow! You have gone further than I did!
We're putting the FEED kit on this week and next to get ready for NOPI Nationals... Can't wait to see your car all done!
Thanks, good luck at NOPI. When I saw your car for the first time when I was at the gap, I was instantly happy with the color I choose to paint mine. Your FD is another rare super clean example on the street.
What are you using to hold the gauges in place? I am doing the same thing to mine. Trying to mount my wideband and the water injection flow gauge in the oil pressure and stock coolant temp locations.
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Brian Kraemer -
2004 BMW M3 - BBS, Ground Control and Supersprint
2002 Camaro SS with 1994 Mazda RX7 body kit!
1995 BMW M3 project street/track car
1998 Acura Integra Type R - project "9500rpm"
Finished the dash, had to eliminate the plugs for the SPA gauges and solder the wires directly, I did mil spec connectors though, so it's good. I used plastic rod, spacers and nuts to attach the gauges to the dash, required a lot of trimming original gauge structure in order to fit, but the finished product turn out awesome.
Well, put fluids in, cranked it over for oil pressure and found that I have a crack at one of the fittings on one of my mocal oil coolers. Need to fix that and find out why my fuel pump isn't turning on, will need to trace that issue too.
Well checked the wiring for the fuel pump and everything looks good, may be a supporting accessory that causing the pump to not kick in initially when starting. Will figure it out when I can get back to starting the motor. Since I'm dead in the water because of the oil cooler, I worked on other things like getting my rear diffuser fitted. Will need some more work at the corners and getting rid of the aero drag pocket in the right rear tire well.
About how deep are those SPA gauges and how much deeper could they be to be mounted in the stock locations without cutting holes in the circuit board? I think my Aquamist guage is pretty deep...might be deeper (taller) than those SPAs but I can't tell from the pics...
I didn't measure the gauges depth, but they were close to 2 inches and I could have gone in another .25 inches before I ran into one of the dashs electrical plug-in points on the lower gauge. Top one I could have gone to the base, which was another .450 inches. If you do do it, place it on the top gauge.
Well not much progress yesterday, didn't have the necessary materials to braze the oil fitting back on, notice the DO NOT EXCEED 30Nm tag, yeah, I wish I noticed that sooner, doh. Will have to go to a rad shop to aluminum braze the fitting back on.
So I read up on Chuck Westbrook's tuning guide, good read if you ever plan on tuning your own car.
Nice im Knee deep in a restoration rite nowand stummbled on your thread.The guys at work think im going over board, and I say dudes its an RX 7. Thow I was starting think so untill I saw Your make over. Thanks for the inspiration
Well not much progress yesterday, didn't have the necessary materials to braze the oil fitting back on, notice the DO NOT EXCEED 30Nm tag, yeah, I wish I noticed that sooner, doh. Will have to go to a rad shop to aluminum braze the fitting back on.
Did you use a backing wrench on the oil cooler fitting when tightening the hose fitting?
I did, but I put a bit more torque on the fitting than required and in the process accidentally put a torque to the oil cooler fitting. So, I'm making that oil cooler a backup and got a Setrab unit, a lot nice oil cooler.
I put motorcycle turn signals in the oil cooler duct on the plastic fenders; this will show a little light through the vent, which should look pretty cool. Spyder and I hashed that one out.
And I made a pretty big mistake somewhere in my wiring, will have to take the harness out and do a check, I have a feeling its two simple wires that I’ve crossed that goes the ecu that causing all my problems. Stay tuned to starting this bitch.
Thanks, hopefully I will be able drive this sucker to DGRR 08! God, the fuel cost is going to kill me .
I made the accessory mount bracket last night for the BOV control valve, Spal fan controller and my modified relay box. Off to paint it goes to get a nice high gloss black finish.
After looking at the wiring harness, it looks like the wiring was correct for the engine control, but I was getting excess current draw from the added accessories and was popping a few fuses along the way. I did have other wiring issues though and after reading Chuck Westbrook tuning guide I relocated a few things per his recommendations. So I rerouted some wires, fixed a few leads and relocated the secondary injector controller for better access. Hope this will be it. Oh, and I didn’t have my leading coil plugged in, that explained why I wasn’t getting spark, Doh!
Welded in the new air temp sensor bung and in the process of checking everything before I do the final wiring harness wrap. The fan setup I have is pretty effective, may go one step further and put fans on the oil coolers. Enjoy to vid.
Your FD is another rare super clean example on the street. 
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Linear Mode
