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For a period of time i could start my car and run it without using an on/off switch that fiddled with teh VAC/BAC system. before, when i owuld put electical load on the engine it would die unless i manually turned the VAC on and off. But the last month i have been using my headlights very rarely and i always turned on the engine before i turned the lights on. Today i did some wiring that made the retractor motors work. This wiring is completely isolated and is not connected to any ignition stuff or FI. However, today i turned the lights on, then was drawing power from teh cigarete ligther to an accesory, and tried to turn the car on and i t owuldnt start, so i flipped the fiddle switch she fired up and now has every symptom of running like crap like it did when i first had it.
symptoms.
Switch on
The car will start.
It will miss alot above 4-5k .
It will idle around 500 rpm, just barely.
It makes the idle drop from 2k hangups.
switch off
The car will not start.
It will idle withou any electical load.
The idle hangs up at 2k
Anyway, how i solved this problem before was some major adjustment to the TPS and throttle stop screw and idle air adjust screw. I will try to start the car tommorow with the switch off and no electical load. If the syptoms have not gone away i will adjust the TPS. I have read the FSMs through and through and http://www.nellump.net/peri/epi/firs...gslseIdle.html .
Any advice extremely apreciated.
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Before you go and start adjusting all kinds of things.
Check for any vacuum leaks. Inspect the air intake hose where it joins the 2 pieces together. Check the clamp on the air intake hose on the forward side of the AFM(towards the T/body). Check the small hose that comes off of the air intake hose and goes into the plenum chamber.
Those of course are the basics.
Adjusting things such as the TPS, and idle air screw in most cases are not needed. They don't get out of adjustment once they are set. As far as the throttle stop screw, that usually creates more problems.
I would really check the grounds, especially the one that joins and bolts near the driverside shock tower. Also if you have spare fusable links for the injection system, replace them. Nows a good time if you have not done so to put in the 2nd gen fuses in place of the links.
Start with these small things first.
With the SE, it is best to take things one step at a time and avoid doing alot of un-needed adjustments. Usually when adjustments are made and they resolve a problem, it is usually a masking of the original problem that will reoccur. :-)
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RX-7Doctor
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thanks. Can you get 2nd gen fuses at the auto parts store?
There is a chance that i will wake up tommorow and it wont do this. The whoever had it before me has screwed everything up i realyl dont have a baseline for adjustments. Like this problem just happened. I turned the car off, turned the light off and on about 20 times over 3 hours. Didnt touch any other wiring or any adjustments. The only thing that changed is that it was 10 degrees cooler outside and istarted it with electriacal load on the engine, and maybee it started with the BAC valve in the wrong place and didnt adjust it like it was supposed to. Then it ran crappy. However, when the car was off maybe the vac plunger is stuck on or off, or the BAC is stuck open or closed.
thanks. Can you get 2nd gen fuses at the auto parts store?
There is a chance that i will wake up tommorow and it wont do this. The whoever had it before me has screwed everything up i realyl dont have a baseline for adjustments. Like this problem just happened. I turned the car off, turned the light off and on about 20 times over 3 hours. Didnt touch any other wiring or any adjustments. The only thing that changed is that it was 10 degrees cooler outside and istarted it with electriacal load on the engine, and maybee it started with the BAC valve in the wrong place and didnt adjust it like it was supposed to. Then it ran crappy. However, when the car was off maybe the vac plunger is stuck on or off, or the BAC is stuck open or closed.
Yes, the fuses are available at any auto parts store. You will need a 30amp and a 60amp one.
Temperature can have a great effect on a FI engine. Our ECU's are antiquated but do rely on resistance values.
The coolant temp sensor on the engine is the most critical sensor for fuel managment that the Se has. I would just start with what I have mentioned for now.
I have alot of diagnostic time with the Se's and almost everytime it is something different. Now I try to stick to the basics then if that does not solve the issue, get out the big guns. :-)
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RX-7Doctor
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The se is an amazing machine, but its 23 years old. The metal/aluminum/iron parts of the engine are durable and strong, like the rotors and housings, but everythign outside of the engine like the FI system and wiring harness is old and deteroirating. The EFI system also is quite simple, and when is tuned perfect, it is a fool proof system. But the valves and selionoids are 23 years old and dont work quite right and therefore screws up all the other stuff that then in turn tries to compensate for that part not working, but then screws something else up. Then you go to tune it and it it fixes the problem super temporarily. In the end you create a mess.
but im not complaining. Id love to restore an se after i go to college, but as my daily driver i can take it apart and fix it like i should.
Till then ill try to tune it to fix problems as they come and get rid of her next june vefore i go to college. Then when i can afford to have it as a project, i will make one right. My next rx7 will be a gslse for sure.
I Still need to use the swith cause i think that it isnt giving fuel at idle. When the switch is on, there is a ticking sound when the ignition is in the position where all the red warning lights are on. When the switch is off, there is no ticking and it wont start. COuld that ticking be the fuel pump or perhaps the FI. Anyway now i start the car with no electical load except the radio, and it revs up to 2k, then i turn the switch off and it comes down and idles nicely at 900-1100 rpm. Then i switch on the electicdal load after the car is on and the BAC valve works perfectly and compensates exactly for all load. And when i would hit the power brakes before, even that woul kill the car. Now i can run the heater, lights, and hit the brakes nad the BAC system compensates seamlessly. So I always have the car on, and the ECU system working to have the car idling BEFORE i switch on the electical things.
Anyway does anyone have an idea what the ticking sound could be when the ignition is in the ON position before the car is started with the switch on? Its coming from between the firewall and the throttle body.
I guess the swich is actually good for me cause its definitally a theft deterant.
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