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I run the twin power and its fine so far. I also forgot the 472 hp is a corrected number so you dont know the real hp at your altitude. And i imagine the 35 is running out of steam! The air is alot thinner up there. And your plugs should not foul that easy what are your a/f ratios?
My A/F ratios hold pretty steady at 11.1, I was afraid my 35/40 was running out of steam, but others tell me no way it could be since it should push 26lbs. Who knows since not to many people have to deal with this high altitude shit!
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Founder of MileHighRotaryClub.com
Best ET 11.22 @ 123.46 1.55 60ft w/ 472hp corrected
My 2 step video with over 2.5 Million Views on Youtube!
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MichaelB145, I'm curious what is your best trap speed? I wouldn't be suprised if you ran a 10.9 with a better ign. setup with a 1.5 60ft, and super fast shifting of course
My trap speeds with current setup is 123mph. I have to put in brand new plugs (9's all the way around) to run that. But it feels very good....no break up at all. Then you can tell after about 8 runs or so, it starts to break up. I read somewhere today that 9's all the way around will only be good to 400hp! Is that true.....But in another thread, someone said 10.5's were a waste? I don't want to keep buying 10.5's if I have to keep replacing them. 9's are cheap!
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Founder of MileHighRotaryClub.com
Best ET 11.22 @ 123.46 1.55 60ft w/ 472hp corrected
My 2 step video with over 2.5 Million Views on Youtube!
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I think you should be running at least 10s with the high boost levels, and better ignition setup will help I'm sure, it should run smoother than it does now with the new 9's. Try the BR10EIXs, they not expensive really, like same as the factory 9s, and use a bench grinder to make a socket thin enough to install them. I definately think my car runs better with those plugs compared to the 9s I just took out, and it ran a lot better after the Jacobs ignition and FC coil, mine was breaking up a good bit before those parts.
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Currently tuning my rebuilt streetported motor. Original motor - 11.08 @ 126.2 1.66 60' clutch slipping (1.52 best) Full Non-Seq stock turbos. 368 HP @ 21 psi. 2560 lbs
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Here is a video with the larger motor making 510RWhp, I know it is not a rotary but it gives you a idea of HP needed for 10's. The run below was run on 275 Nitto NT01 tires--Road race tires. I was road racing the day before.
Cool, let us know how you like them once installed. I chose the EIX version of that plug, they were like $7 or $8 I think.
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Currently tuning my rebuilt streetported motor. Original motor - 11.08 @ 126.2 1.66 60' clutch slipping (1.52 best) Full Non-Seq stock turbos. 368 HP @ 21 psi. 2560 lbs
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BR10EIX is the newer iridium, and they are a "R", resistor plug which many people recommend because of the electronics in the car, read this - http://sparkplugs.com/glossary.asp?k...r&manID=0&pt=1. They sound better, haha, read below:
NGK iridium plugs represent the ultimate evolution of spark plug technology and performance. The iridium center electrode is both stronger and harder than platinum. This allows NGK engineers to design an ultra-fine (0.6mm)center electrode reducing the voltage requirement for spark. This allows for a brighter, stronger spark from your existing ignition system. The ground electrode has a tapered cut at the firing end which reduces quenching for better flame core growth and increased ignitability. The combination of fine wire center electrode and tapered cut ground will increase performance, improve acceleration, and fuel efficiency.
NGK's EGV spark plugs are similar to their EV plugs, both have a fine wire (1.0mm) gold palladium center electrode for better ignitability, more power, and enhanced antifouling capabilities. However the EGV's offer reduced erosion characteristics (greater durability) due to a higher quality gold palladium blend . Traditional ground electrode. Maintains all the high quality construction features of NGK's traditional plugs.
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Currently tuning my rebuilt streetported motor. Original motor - 11.08 @ 126.2 1.66 60' clutch slipping (1.52 best) Full Non-Seq stock turbos. 368 HP @ 21 psi. 2560 lbs
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It sounds like those plugs would be good for me since I will be running alcohol injection and it might help from quenching the motor. When it come to "durability", are they talking about less likely to fowl or against the elements? I'm replacing the plugs at least every month so not sure if that will matter. Do you just replace the leading?
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Founder of MileHighRotaryClub.com
Best ET 11.22 @ 123.46 1.55 60ft w/ 472hp corrected
My 2 step video with over 2.5 Million Views on Youtube!
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i am trying now to get in the 10's with stock twins like the guy did along time ago...its a challenge and i think only 1 or 2 has ever done it......the main problem i see or have is the trans.....can shift it hard or fast enough.....and they wont last( from my experience, been through 4)
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94 white FD, half-bridge, GT4088 journal, FMIC, 550/1600, 4" dp/exhaust, PFC , tuned by Rotary Performance
the main problem i see or have is the trans.....can shift it hard or fast enough.....and they wont last( from my experience, been through 4)
I'm suprised to hear that because I haven't broken anything. stock tranny, diff, axles and motor. I shift it very hard and fast, like 100 times down the track. What's your best ET, trap speed and 60ft?
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Currently tuning my rebuilt streetported motor. Original motor - 11.08 @ 126.2 1.66 60' clutch slipping (1.52 best) Full Non-Seq stock turbos. 368 HP @ 21 psi. 2560 lbs
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You can't tell my you have a stock diff in yours Tom? That will blow up! Everything else I think your alright.
Ha that's funny. Not only do I have the stock diff., I have never had a diff brace either! It hasn't blown up. Don't they blow up mostly from wheel hop?, I don't get any of that. But I just installed a banzai racing brace, it is very nice and fit great, I haven't driven the car yet with it on. Thanks.
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Currently tuning my rebuilt streetported motor. Original motor - 11.08 @ 126.2 1.66 60' clutch slipping (1.52 best) Full Non-Seq stock turbos. 368 HP @ 21 psi. 2560 lbs
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There are a ton of reasons parts break or dont! The driver has the abilitty to save a lot of stress on the drive train. I am running 1.50's 60 ft on stock set up with t11 diff and braces witch means the axles sees all the power but i use the clutch to soften the shock. Some people can break anything. And some people can get more out of a car for no appearent reason.
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But comeone, nobody(I guess almost nobody) gets 1.6 or better 60fts with a stock 3rd gen diff without breaking. TII diffs are much stronger
I am somebody that does get 1.58-1.7 60 fts, many many times, without breaking anything! I'm sure the solid diff. mounts, drag launch kit trailing arms, and new pillowball bushings help some too.
Don't drop the clutch!! Ease it out a little! You can still rip off the line, and not brake anything! If you have a good stage 3 or better clutch, it will last long time. Drop the clutch and you could wheel hop, spin the tires, or jump and bog if the revs are not high enough.
Well said Busted7.
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Currently tuning my rebuilt streetported motor. Original motor - 11.08 @ 126.2 1.66 60' clutch slipping (1.52 best) Full Non-Seq stock turbos. 368 HP @ 21 psi. 2560 lbs
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The advantage of the t11 diff as i see it is the clutches give a little slippage and reduce shock. Im not saying you dont know how to launch you may have had a part that was already twisted or cracked. Also i imagine the rear caster and camber may play apart in the angles that the axles and drive shaft see during launch witch may bind or stress at a bad angle. Im sure my day is coming i have replaced everything else but 8,000 is were its at. If things didnt break what would we bitch about and spend money we dont have on.
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the problem i have with the tranny's is shifting them. Of all the cars i have raced my fd with anystock trans i have put in it will not shift worth a crap. I mean hold my foot on the floor and never lift...i have lost several races i wiuld have won but i had to wait for shifts. I have broke shifters and the plastic bushings trying to force them in gear with no luck. its either bitch shift or nothing at all. But i just about have this problem solved
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94 white FD, half-bridge, GT4088 journal, FMIC, 550/1600, 4" dp/exhaust, PFC , tuned by Rotary Performance
Ease it out a little! You can still rip off the line, and not brake anything! If you have a good stage 3 or better clutch, it will last long time. Drop the clutch and you could wheel hop, spin the tires, or jump and bog if the revs are not high enough.
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