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Rtek rtek 2.1 6 port turbo first start up problems and tps +afm problems

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Old 07-01-13, 08:05 PM
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is tempted

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NH rtek 2.1 6 port turbo first start up problems and tps +afm problems

finally got my 6 port turbo build completely together and turned her over, it started and died in about 3 seconds and has since just been flooding and not starting. also I have two error codes, one for tps and one for afm.

The tps is consistantly reading 74%, whether plugged in or not. I set the tps to 1K ohm and have tried 2 different tps, it makes no difference.

The afm is reading something like 46 lb of air with the car off, cranking over, doesnt matter. i haven't tried swapping it for a different one yet though.

here's my setup:
88 na
rtek 2.1 : (550/720 setting, arghx 9.4 compression boost based timing maps, wideband set to varres, fuel correction -20% in vacuum, -10% 2-4 psi, -8% 6-8%, no correction 10 psi+, secondary transition at 3300 rpm)
innovate lc-1 wideband + guage, narrowband wire to stock o2 sensor input
high impedance na engine harness with 6 ohm resistors soldered in
rebuilt stock port 6-port block
port matched tII manifolds
simplified tii TB
godspeed front mount intercooler kit
hks ssqv BOV
emissions removed
omp removed - premix 1 oz/gallon
low imp 550 cc primary injectors
low imp 900 cc secondary injectors
aem adjustable fuel pressure regulator (set to 38 psi)
walboro 255 fuel pump (rewired to constant 12v)
msd 6a
msd superconductor wires
greddy intake & turbo inlet duct
greddy t4 turbo manifold w/ t3 adaptor
greddy 20g TD06h turbo
greddy r08 47mm wastegate to open dump, 11psi spring
racing beat 3"downpipe to 3" strait pipe exhaust, single 3" borla strait through muffler
autometer procomp ultralite boost and oil pressure guages

any advice for me as far as tuning this thing to get it running? has anyone else run into these strange readings with the tps and afm? does everything I've done with the rtek so far sound right?
Old 07-01-13, 10:37 PM
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took care of the afm issue just by removing it and playing with the flapper door, it wasn't stuck or anything, but hey it's fixed now.

still no luck with the tps though, pretty strange issue, i feel like i'm going to have to go digging through my wiring harness to sort this one out..
Old 07-02-13, 11:45 AM
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Yeah sounds like a wiring issue. Backprobe the pin at the ECU and see if you get any variation with throttle position.
Old 07-03-13, 03:45 AM
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Take off the tps completely and check for shortage and bad wiring
Old 07-03-13, 04:33 PM
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I checked the wiring around the tps connector and the ecu side and didnt find any wire breaks or anything else odd. after probing with a multimeter i found that for some reason the tps wasn't getting power to the 5v+ wire, and the afm threw the same code it did before, turned out it also wasn't getting power to the 5v+ wire either same brown wire with white stripe. the map sensor also shares one of these 5v+ brown/white wires and was working correctly so i tapped off of that wire to power the afm and tps with 5v and that took care of the problem.

I got the car to run with my foot on the pedal for a while and got to hear my turbo spool, that was great. seems like im dealing with a vacuum leak somewhere though because it wont run on it's own, either that or the used 550's im using are junk. all the fuel maps have 0 correction under 3300 rpms(my secondary injector transition point).

one problem after another, but it's getting there!
Old 07-03-13, 06:44 PM
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swapped out my 550 primary's for my 900's and tossed in my 1600's for my secondary's, now she runs like a champ (minus a high idle and a lope with the clutch in, tps is set right though..)! switched to 720/720 setting for the time being, ill probably switch to 550/720 once i start turning and just turn down my fuel correction by a fuckload. now i just need to stay out of boost while i run this half tank of 87. hit 5 psi on the 87 and it felt real good!
Old 07-03-13, 08:09 PM
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Let us know how if your able to run those 1600's!
Old 07-03-13, 09:22 PM
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I know the 1600's are a little too large for the rtek BUT they're brand new and i feel much safer running those with the brand new 900's than trusting some 20 years old used 550's. I may try turning down my fuel pressure a few points and hopefully with a lot of correction i can see some decent AFR's
Old 06-23-14, 10:07 AM
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So you were getting NO voltage on on the Brown/White wire? or just not 5V? I'm having a similar issue right now.
Old 11-11-14, 08:10 PM
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i don't remember if it wasn't the full 5 volts or not, whichever it was, the tps wasn't functioning. i ended up splicing it 5V from elsewhere in the harness an it worked out alright. The wiring problems in the car ended up popping up throughout the car before rendering it inoperable. Before that happened however, i was able to get some street tuning time in and the car was an absolute rocket; much, much faster than my stock FD.

I ended up with a fairly rich idle, i don't recall what it was exactly, but the 900's and 1600's worked great for my setup, no harsh injector transition, my single walboro 255 was able to keep up with them.

I never dyno'd the car but i would definitely put it in the 300+ whp range. i have a new(to me) full body harness to run through the car whenever i get a chance to tear it apart again. however work, school, life in general and my FD have taken current priority
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