Rtek New boost-based timing maps
06-10-10, 01:03 AM
#52
Alright, due to some requests I have put together a new base timing map for 9.7:1 rotors for those of you who may want a more conservative starting point than the 9.4:1 map I have supplied. Over 5.5psi I pulled an additional 2 degrees of timing in most areas. I also ramped up to 15 split at lower boost.
leading:
split:
leading:
split:
06-10-10, 07:57 PM
#53
Alright, due to some requests I have put together a new base timing map for 9.7:1 rotors for those of you who may want a more conservative starting point than the 9.4:1 map I have supplied. Over 5.5psi I pulled an additional 2 degrees of timing in most areas. I also ramped up to 15 split at lower boost.
06-10-10, 08:59 PM
#54
I know so little about tuning, but I want to get moving on it. I have an '87 TII with RB REV 2 exhaust, street port (otherwise stock internals save for little things like corner seals), stock turbo running 10-12psi (can spike when it's colder), Rtek 2.1, 720cc secondaries, higher flow fuel pump but stock FPR, Zeitronix wideband O2 sensor with EGT probe just after turbo. I think I put 87 Octane gas in it last fill up and I want to know how much advance I might need to pull to run safely on that.
What about running your maps for the 9.4 compression motor? Or something in between?
What about running your maps for the 9.4 compression motor? Or something in between?
06-11-10, 11:54 AM
#55
why don't you just run it at spring pressure (disable boost controller), try to stay out of boost then burn all the gas out and put 93 in?
you could try the more conservative timing map (9.4:1). It might work fine. It might not. I can't answer that, sorry.
you could try the more conservative timing map (9.4:1). It might work fine. It might not. I can't answer that, sorry.
06-11-10, 04:27 PM
#56
I understand you can't say much yay or nay due to liability, and I think I will just burn up all the gas (I'm autocrossing an hour away tomorrow so that should take care of that).
As for my spring pressure, it IS at stock spring pressure, I ported my wastegate to 30mm and I still hit 10+ psi at WOT in 3rd+, often 2nd as well.
In this vid I'm testing it at about 10psi, but it opened just as far when I tested it at ~5psi, I tested it at higher pressure but it doesn't open any farther.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtBaYkGmwTQ
As for my spring pressure, it IS at stock spring pressure, I ported my wastegate to 30mm and I still hit 10+ psi at WOT in 3rd+, often 2nd as well.
In this vid I'm testing it at about 10psi, but it opened just as far when I tested it at ~5psi, I tested it at higher pressure but it doesn't open any farther.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtBaYkGmwTQ
06-11-10, 04:42 PM
#57
https://www.rx7club.com/time-slips-dyno-128/stock-turbo-240hp-dyna-pack-764707/
As for my spring pressure, it IS at stock spring pressure, I ported my wastegate to 30mm and I still hit 10+ psi at WOT in 3rd+, often 2nd as well.
In this vid I'm testing it at about 10psi, but it opened just as far when I tested it at ~5psi, I tested it at higher pressure but it doesn't open any farther.
In this vid I'm testing it at about 10psi, but it opened just as far when I tested it at ~5psi, I tested it at higher pressure but it doesn't open any farther.
My advice is install a single high flow cat. Seriously. It will save you the exhaust smell and it may save your motor.
06-11-10, 07:40 PM
#58
I've already absolved myself of liability in this thread, so that's not the deal... I just genuinely don't know. Few have the ***** to run a modded T2 on 87 octane. The only time I've seen it done was when ReTED did it on his Haltech (with no wideband!):
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=764707
Even with 30mm port, you're still only bleeding off one of the scrolls (s5 bleeds off both). I couldn't control boost with a mildly ported s5 wastegate and a catless 2.5" exhaust system (street ported motor). It would hit 15-20psi in the winter at higher gears. Later on I couldn't control boost with an HKS log manifold and HKS 40mm wastegate (T04S 60-1 turbo). It took a Tial 44mm gate, Feed manifold, and 13psi spring to control boost on a T04R turbo. That's just how it goes. Rotaries flow a lot of exhaust.
My advice is install a single high flow cat. Seriously. It will save you the exhaust smell and it may save your motor.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=764707
Even with 30mm port, you're still only bleeding off one of the scrolls (s5 bleeds off both). I couldn't control boost with a mildly ported s5 wastegate and a catless 2.5" exhaust system (street ported motor). It would hit 15-20psi in the winter at higher gears. Later on I couldn't control boost with an HKS log manifold and HKS 40mm wastegate (T04S 60-1 turbo). It took a Tial 44mm gate, Feed manifold, and 13psi spring to control boost on a T04R turbo. That's just how it goes. Rotaries flow a lot of exhaust.
My advice is install a single high flow cat. Seriously. It will save you the exhaust smell and it may save your motor.
i run 87 octane, and a map that started as your own 9.4 and 93 octane. cojones?
Haven't got a wide band either and i am use 460cc and 720cc on the 550 and 720 setting, cojones? i have the fuel map ajusted to 10%+ to most places in boost, and 15%+ in a few more. i have no problems as of 314 miles. i logged no more then 122C( average 105 ) intake temp. and plenty of umpth. what temps do yall see, coolant stays at 185 most of the time, then when running hard with a/c on it may hit 203-205
i can't load the maps on this 64bit pc tho
sadly, it's come trial and error, i've built 5 motors for this car, before this it had a badly installed reman, and before that i assume stock.
MODS:
88 turbo 10th AE
s4 turbo / 34mm wastegate
3inch tid, fender well cone filter.
460cc prims 720cc snds
3rd gen fuee pump
tubular exhaust manifold. to 3inch down pipe,3 inch pipe to split to stock mufflers
9.4 N/a rotors, stock port s4 irons.
3.9 N/a LSd :S
rtek2.1 aftermarket boost gage, faze?
handspring visor.
probably left something out.
05-22-12, 01:27 AM
#60
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It is ridiculous how tedious putting in those numbers is! Definitely save them so if you ever need to reload them you have a copy. I have beat on mine at every rpm and it loves it! I have been running arghx timing for over a year now.
03-19-13, 06:50 PM
#62
I have a JDM s5 turbo, with stock ports, BNR stage 2, 720/1000, etc. I used ur conservative map and transformed it into a s5 rtek 2.0 map, which is different from s4s, because the boost and rpm indexes are different. The maps I will post have the exact indexes that you would see if u had the palm hooked up to a N370 ECU with rtek 2.0. I had to interpolate the numbers to match my map, so let me know what you think 
06-17-13, 08:34 AM
#63
I've read and re-read this thread and it hasn't been asked but for some reason when I set my PDA to boost based maps I'm not sure as to how to enter the data from your graphs arghx? The rpms (x axis) I understand and figured out but the boost or load (y axis) don't match up? If I'm missing something that is right in front of me then let me know. Thanks in advance.
02-16-14, 01:02 PM
#65
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Socosmoo bring this thread up, need serious help because of fear of blowing my motor I just got. My setup. It will change! s4ish t2.... Mild street port t2 irons, cosmo RE rotors e shaft and counterweights, 8lbs flywheel, complete emissions block offs, straight exhaust and open intake, walbro 255, S5 hybrid turbo has Garrett .60 compressor and wheel wg boosts solid at 10psi. And stock injectors<only temporary have 720 secondaries to put in I put the conservative map in and it ran smoother than with load based but won't idle now and only runs when holding the gas . Any help with a map for that setup would be awesome, please
03-11-14, 11:58 AM
#66
Ok, so I just installed my Rtek 2.1. I have 550/720 injector setup. I plan on manipulating my timing to match the conservative table posted here. What do I need to do to fuel? Does fuel need to be modified at all or does it alter based on what your timing is?
08-04-14, 04:38 PM
#68
help on entering split map
I got the Leading Map entered, easy enough. When I go to enter, Arghx's split map (9.4 rotors maps.) I see all the stock negitive values on the palm screen.
Are all of the numbers on his map positive and should be entered as such?
Are all of the numbers on his map positive and should be entered as such?
09-15-14, 01:23 AM
#70
stumbled on this thread because i've been looking at different ignition maps to compare. I've boosted my rx8 and seem to have decent success so far my timing map is very close to what was posted for the rx8. I'm using cobb AP. Just wanted to say thanks for the info. Really made my day to see my numbers weren't far off from other's findings
01-10-18, 01:18 PM
#71
Alright, due to some requests I have put together a new base timing map for 9.7:1 rotors for those of you who may want a more conservative starting point than the 9.4:1 map I have supplied. Over 5.5psi I pulled an additional 2 degrees of timing in most areas. I also ramped up to 15 split at lower boost.
leading:
split:
leading:
split:
01-10-18, 02:04 PM
#72
No. Emanage Ultimate is just another piggyback. It modifies the existing spark calculation. See my comments in this post about the Rx-8 application: https://www.rx7club.com/rtek-forum-1.../#post10045903
In short, you made a mistake. You should never have bought an emanage Ultimate, and you should sell it.
In short, you made a mistake. You should never have bought an emanage Ultimate, and you should sell it.
02-06-18, 08:35 PM
#73
Junior Member
Old thread I know but I finally got my hands on a rtek 2.1 for my s5 t2 will these conservative timing maps work for my car, it does have a much larger turbo as Well as large street port, just looking for a place to start until I can get it it tuned
02-22-18, 08:48 PM
#74
RX-7 Old Timer
Yep, I would use them.
I used the maps for my mild S4 hybrid, and it worked well. Ignition tuning is fancier than fuel turning. You can use EGTs, but it's not straightforward like an AFR reading.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the 13B responds best to boost and airflow, and is less sensitive to exact AFRs and timing. Keep the combustion cool and happy, get high airflow through the engine (flow mods and boost), and you will make power.
I used the maps for my mild S4 hybrid, and it worked well. Ignition tuning is fancier than fuel turning. You can use EGTs, but it's not straightforward like an AFR reading.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the 13B responds best to boost and airflow, and is less sensitive to exact AFRs and timing. Keep the combustion cool and happy, get high airflow through the engine (flow mods and boost), and you will make power.
07-16-18, 08:16 AM
#75
Yep, I would use them.
I used the maps for my mild S4 hybrid, and it worked well. Ignition tuning is fancier than fuel turning. You can use EGTs, but it's not straightforward like an AFR reading.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the 13B responds best to boost and airflow, and is less sensitive to exact AFRs and timing. Keep the combustion cool and happy, get high airflow through the engine (flow mods and boost), and you will make power.
I used the maps for my mild S4 hybrid, and it worked well. Ignition tuning is fancier than fuel turning. You can use EGTs, but it's not straightforward like an AFR reading.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the 13B responds best to boost and airflow, and is less sensitive to exact AFRs and timing. Keep the combustion cool and happy, get high airflow through the engine (flow mods and boost), and you will make power.