Road Racing Engine question
#1
Road Racing Engine question
Ok, so the engine in my 88 GXL died at 210k miles, no big deal, it was on the downhill anyways, and I plan on replacing it with a rebuild engine, not a junkyard engine, a proper, new rotor housings, rebuild engine, I just dont know from who yet.
I plan on going roadracing with the car, nothing competitive just going to summit point or vir and beating around the track as much as possible.
The car has a lot of suspension and chassis work done to it: AGX shocks with RSR Race springs, full Prothane bushing kit, new motor mounts, subframe mounts, full undercoating, ect. It is also going to get a full SCCA spec rollcage hopefully soon.
My questions are:
1-What kind of engine would be best suited for road racing all motor, a bridge ported 13b or one with a large streetport?(dont say PP because thats out of the question at the moment)
2-If I do decide to go with the bridgeport (or the streetport for that matter) I DO NOT want to run the stock ecu with my crumbling harness, would it be better to do a standalone(haltech or microtech) with a new harness and wideband or just go with a set of Weber 48 IDA carbs?
Money is not an issue with the setup, I will spend whats necessary to do it right the first time so I dont have to do it again. Share your knowledge. Thanks.
I plan on going roadracing with the car, nothing competitive just going to summit point or vir and beating around the track as much as possible.
The car has a lot of suspension and chassis work done to it: AGX shocks with RSR Race springs, full Prothane bushing kit, new motor mounts, subframe mounts, full undercoating, ect. It is also going to get a full SCCA spec rollcage hopefully soon.
My questions are:
1-What kind of engine would be best suited for road racing all motor, a bridge ported 13b or one with a large streetport?(dont say PP because thats out of the question at the moment)
2-If I do decide to go with the bridgeport (or the streetport for that matter) I DO NOT want to run the stock ecu with my crumbling harness, would it be better to do a standalone(haltech or microtech) with a new harness and wideband or just go with a set of Weber 48 IDA carbs?
Money is not an issue with the setup, I will spend whats necessary to do it right the first time so I dont have to do it again. Share your knowledge. Thanks.
#2
There are several (not a whole lot) of folks out there that can build you a good/great engine. You might want to talk to Ernst at RX7World (RX7world.com). He's not too far from you. He built my 3rd gen and I'm very happy (not a road race car), but he actually works more on 2nd gen I think. He's been building for MANY years. Feel free to use my name with him if you call him. . .
Jeff Adams
Jeff Adams
#3
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
You might want to talk to Jesse Prather @ Prather Racing. He does the motor for my E Prod 2nd gen SCCA National racecar and I'm getting 200rwhp with a 48IDA weber with 42mm chokes. Jesse is one of the top builders of these engines and can break it in on the dyno so you are ready to go as soon as you put it in the car.
The websit is www.pratherracing.com.
The websit is www.pratherracing.com.
#4
Old Rotary Dog
If you eventually want to race competitively on the track, you may want to think about going with an S5 engine and stock internals. That way the engine will be legal for use in SCCA ITS.
170+ rwhp in a 2600 lbs car with DOT stickies is plenty of fun, trust me. :-)
-b
170+ rwhp in a 2600 lbs car with DOT stickies is plenty of fun, trust me. :-)
-b
#5
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Since you are not far from summit point give Bret at RP performance a call. He is great. just his tune on my stock 12a was enough to **** off Spec miatas at track days and at my SCCA school. before i could never pull in them before on the front stright and now i can run with them and draft them and pass them
#6
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i was going to build a bridgy s5 but talking to the guys at the shop near me they convinced me not to do bridgy because while tunnning you will notice power spikes and drops that your going to spend time trying to blend out. i just traded my stock s5 for a large street ported overlapped s5 according to them i will get a smoother broader powerband great for up to 600hp if i want, but he suggest just aiming for 300 it will boost faster and last longer. i trust these guys as they have a plethera of rotaries running drag all 800+ hp and no engines going boom just transmissions lol. none of them are bridgy and non are pp. oh i am also running a carb set up not FI seeing as i dont know how to tune but they are going to teach me.
#7
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a couple of the other guys are right, you need to look at what class you're going to race in, and build an engine that's legal for that class.
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