autocross A Stock class - how will FD do against C5?
04-11-11, 10:27 AM
#1
autocross A Stock class - how will FD do against C5?
is anyone running this class competitively?
any stock FD's left?
will do they well in AS on a national level?
is the Tripoint Engineering Front Swaybar considered legal? also are the widefoot mounts legal? or can you use the tripoint bar without the widefoot mounts?
best tire size for the stock wheels? 245 or 265?
thanks!
any stock FD's left?
will do they well in AS on a national level?
is the Tripoint Engineering Front Swaybar considered legal? also are the widefoot mounts legal? or can you use the tripoint bar without the widefoot mounts?
best tire size for the stock wheels? 245 or 265?
thanks!
04-13-11, 11:38 AM
#2
it all depends on the driver when it comes down to a car vs another car but i would guess you could keep up down here in so cal i have seen a couple fds run at the scca meets but never any stock ones but the two that where running where a husband and wife team and they were running top of there class and the sway bar i think is legal but may put you in another class but not sure best is to go ask the refs down there and i am not sure about tire size i always liked a little more side wall
04-16-11, 11:12 PM
#3
I am running in A stock just locally in my FD.
The TriPoint front swaybar, reinforced mounts, bronze busings are legal, though I am fighting the understeer.
I hate that I have to jump off the gas even momentarily to get the car to rotate at the limit- though this action has made it shoot flames through the two stock cats!
I have a ton of body roll of course, so I don't think taking it off is an option. I just keep fiddling with rear tire pressure and upping the damping on the rear GAB Super Rs, but haven't hit consistent oversteer yet.
Next, I am going to max the front negative camber to try to get more front traction.
With the K&N drop in and 3 1/2" cat back the 2ndary transition boost spike is a pain to drive around.
The C5 power and powerband just looks so easy to drive with.
From what I have read the 265 rub, though with the negative camber I have and clearance I have with 245 on I am pretty sure it isn't the top of the fender- maybe it is because they are tall/wide and rub the lower rear of the front fender?
I did Kumho last season and will try Hoosier this season.
Last time I looked there were not many people running A stock nationally, so I would think a great driver could be competitive in any A stock legal car. Go go go.
The TriPoint front swaybar, reinforced mounts, bronze busings are legal, though I am fighting the understeer.
I hate that I have to jump off the gas even momentarily to get the car to rotate at the limit- though this action has made it shoot flames through the two stock cats!
I have a ton of body roll of course, so I don't think taking it off is an option. I just keep fiddling with rear tire pressure and upping the damping on the rear GAB Super Rs, but haven't hit consistent oversteer yet.
Next, I am going to max the front negative camber to try to get more front traction.
With the K&N drop in and 3 1/2" cat back the 2ndary transition boost spike is a pain to drive around.
The C5 power and powerband just looks so easy to drive with.
From what I have read the 265 rub, though with the negative camber I have and clearance I have with 245 on I am pretty sure it isn't the top of the fender- maybe it is because they are tall/wide and rub the lower rear of the front fender?
I did Kumho last season and will try Hoosier this season.
Last time I looked there were not many people running A stock nationally, so I would think a great driver could be competitive in any A stock legal car. Go go go.
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12-29-11, 12:14 PM
#9
I was thinking a bit and I'll explain WHY A stock is bad for the FD ..
lets look at the mods allowed in A stock , shocks , and exhaust thats it .. and ofcourse rubber..
Now the shocks department yeah we have to gain there ..
BUT the exhaust is where we lose .
in order to be legal you must maintain the same ECU and as we FD owners know with a full exhaust the OEM wastegate is not enough to keep the stock 10 PSI .. without an after market computer to compensate for the extra boost .. we get lean situations .. , now to compensate for that we need an exhaust thats NOt to free flowingin order to keep the car from over boosting which in turn makesi t so that the car can't even get its potential from one of the only 2 mods you can really do.
lets look at the mods allowed in A stock , shocks , and exhaust thats it .. and ofcourse rubber..
Now the shocks department yeah we have to gain there ..
BUT the exhaust is where we lose .
in order to be legal you must maintain the same ECU and as we FD owners know with a full exhaust the OEM wastegate is not enough to keep the stock 10 PSI .. without an after market computer to compensate for the extra boost .. we get lean situations .. , now to compensate for that we need an exhaust thats NOt to free flowingin order to keep the car from over boosting which in turn makesi t so that the car can't even get its potential from one of the only 2 mods you can really do.
01-02-12, 06:15 AM
#10
You don't get lean, you just get fuel cut.
My stock class FD is pretty useless on the street since it fuel cuts in 3rd 4th and 5th, but it works in auto-x since it pulls through in 1st and 2nd and a good part of 3rd without fuel cutting.
Looks like previous owner brought it in in '98 under warranty complaining of a flat spot under heavy acceleration and they noted he had a modified exhaust from cat back.
I am looking forward to putting the boost controllers back on the wastegate and prespool, downpipe back on and running in BSP next season while having a much more streetable car with perfect boost pattern again.
My stock class FD is pretty useless on the street since it fuel cuts in 3rd 4th and 5th, but it works in auto-x since it pulls through in 1st and 2nd and a good part of 3rd without fuel cutting.
Looks like previous owner brought it in in '98 under warranty complaining of a flat spot under heavy acceleration and they noted he had a modified exhaust from cat back.
I am looking forward to putting the boost controllers back on the wastegate and prespool, downpipe back on and running in BSP next season while having a much more streetable car with perfect boost pattern again.
01-04-12, 08:23 AM
#12
You don't get lean, you just get fuel cut.
My stock class FD is pretty useless on the street since it fuel cuts in 3rd 4th and 5th, but it works in auto-x since it pulls through in 1st and 2nd and a good part of 3rd without fuel cutting.
Looks like previous owner brought it in in '98 under warranty complaining of a flat spot under heavy acceleration and they noted he had a modified exhaust from cat back.
I am looking forward to putting the boost controllers back on the wastegate and prespool, downpipe back on and running in BSP next season while having a much more streetable car with perfect boost pattern again.
My stock class FD is pretty useless on the street since it fuel cuts in 3rd 4th and 5th, but it works in auto-x since it pulls through in 1st and 2nd and a good part of 3rd without fuel cutting.
Looks like previous owner brought it in in '98 under warranty complaining of a flat spot under heavy acceleration and they noted he had a modified exhaust from cat back.
I am looking forward to putting the boost controllers back on the wastegate and prespool, downpipe back on and running in BSP next season while having a much more streetable car with perfect boost pattern again.
01-05-12, 12:44 AM
#13
http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/...for%202012.pdf
Proposal is basically to add a class to top and bottom of Street prepared, move R35 and FD into BSP and a bunch of of cars from BSP into CSP and move CSP and below down a class.
Proposal is basically to add a class to top and bottom of Street prepared, move R35 and FD into BSP and a bunch of of cars from BSP into CSP and move CSP and below down a class.
06-04-12, 10:40 PM
#15
You don't get lean, you just get fuel cut.
My stock class FD is pretty useless on the street since it fuel cuts in 3rd 4th and 5th, but it works in auto-x since it pulls through in 1st and 2nd and a good part of 3rd without fuel cutting.
Looks like previous owner brought it in in '98 under warranty complaining of a flat spot under heavy acceleration and they noted he had a modified exhaust from cat back.
I am looking forward to putting the boost controllers back on the wastegate and prespool, downpipe back on and running in BSP next season while having a much more streetable car with perfect boost pattern again.
My stock class FD is pretty useless on the street since it fuel cuts in 3rd 4th and 5th, but it works in auto-x since it pulls through in 1st and 2nd and a good part of 3rd without fuel cutting.
Looks like previous owner brought it in in '98 under warranty complaining of a flat spot under heavy acceleration and they noted he had a modified exhaust from cat back.
I am looking forward to putting the boost controllers back on the wastegate and prespool, downpipe back on and running in BSP next season while having a much more streetable car with perfect boost pattern again.
06-05-12, 02:51 AM
#16
I just set the car up like I want to drive it this year and not caring about class/pax.
Downpipe, boost controllers, intercooler, ohlins, ditch the big front sway bar and 18x10.5 all around on 265 street tires.
Much more enjoyable to drive on and off the course!
Downpipe, boost controllers, intercooler, ohlins, ditch the big front sway bar and 18x10.5 all around on 265 street tires.
Much more enjoyable to drive on and off the course!
09-29-12, 01:04 AM
#17
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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Nice, what kind of Ohlins you running? Also why a 10.5 rim with a 265 tire?? Just seems like extra rotating wheel weight and a stretched tire.. I run 275's all around on both 9" and 10" rims and they work great..
09-29-12, 04:20 AM
#18
Just the Ohlins DFV. Not race stuff.
I like how a wider rim for a given tire feels. 265/35-18 on 10.5 is the top end of recommended rim width for this tire.
In the futures though I might make some offset bushings for the front and run 295/30-18 R888 because the $244 price is tempting me.
I don't know if its so tempting it will lure me away from my current $144 595RS-R, but its tempting.
I like how a wider rim for a given tire feels. 265/35-18 on 10.5 is the top end of recommended rim width for this tire.
In the futures though I might make some offset bushings for the front and run 295/30-18 R888 because the $244 price is tempting me.
I don't know if its so tempting it will lure me away from my current $144 595RS-R, but its tempting.
12-12-15, 03:21 PM
#20
I don't, but on street tires with stock width wheels the FD should fair much better against the C5 Z06 or C6 'Vette which won't be able to put its torque to use as well.
But the real thing is the the same 'Vette drivers are still there driving just as fast or faster and now you expect a newer driver to compete with them? (ie, its the driver no the car)
Read that post you linked, IDK how you "blow-up" a stock FD auto-x ing it.
Just pop the hood between runs (after you drive it every time) to let everything cool down (pretty soon you will be misting your IC) and to keep all the rubber from baking hard.
But the real thing is the the same 'Vette drivers are still there driving just as fast or faster and now you expect a newer driver to compete with them? (ie, its the driver no the car)
Read that post you linked, IDK how you "blow-up" a stock FD auto-x ing it.
Just pop the hood between runs (after you drive it every time) to let everything cool down (pretty soon you will be misting your IC) and to keep all the rubber from baking hard.
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