tee_rexx

OK......I have done a search and found some good ideas, but I was just curious what others have experienced. Over the winter I am working on the RX7 for Solo 1 and 2 and would like to install a roll bar. Nothing crazy.....I don't want a whole cage, just a bar behind the seats (which will also be replaced with aftermarket). I am interested in the usual things....price, ease of installation etc. I intend to still drive it on the street so nothing to radical. Thanks in advance.

tee_rexx

Wow, I can't beleive I am the only thread that didn't get one single response!! Anyway, after continued searching I found this.....for anyone that might be interested.

http://www.fc3s.org/how_tos/safety/coupe_rollbar.html

Jaime Enriquez

I have an Autopower race bar in my FC, I like it. The passenger seat doesn't fully recline but **** it.

DAharon

iTrader: (1)

I'm waiting to get a custom roll bar installed. It'll cost more, but that Autopower bar scares me. Look at the way it mounts. Especially those rear legs. I can flex the rear wheel wells with one hand, and I'm not a big guy.

owen is fat

the autopower is sure the cheapest aand most readily available rollbar, plus you can get it in 3 or 4 variations... removable crossbar, diagonal bracing, etc.

I had the same style bar in my Civic hatch and it was only 55 pounds for the design with the most bars, not bad weight wise. But it also attached to the wheel wells like it will in the RX7 and I dont think that is optimum for strength or chassis rigidity.

I think I might end up with a custom rollbar made locally by hand so that I get one to go to better mount points in the rear, and tie the shock towers together at the same time.



Also, you would need a full 6 to 10 point cage to run Solo1 events, to a huge list of regulations too, so I assume you mean HPDE / Hi Performance Driver Education events right? for those you just need a "safe" car by most of their standards, a rollbar would be enough

I think a full cage would really stiffen up the RX7 body since the door openings are HUGE, but for a street car youre askign for trouble with a bar right next to your head not to mention making it harder to get in and out of the car

bond007

SCCA Solo-I mandates a 4 point rollbar. A 6-8 point cage is not mandated but the more protection, the better are you are off in a rollover.

Be sure that the bar is ACTUALLY SOLO-I COMPLIANT. There are some being sold out there are NOT and will fail a tech inspection. That includes both the design and the tubing sizing. Having had what was supposed to be a "compliant" (it was not) bolt-in for my 3rd gen, I ended up going with a custom piece done by a local who builds a lot of club racing cages and is well versed in the SCCA rules.

Don't scrimp on safety. It is not worth it.

Regards,
--Ashraf

Speed Raycer

Shoot me an email and we can work something out for you. I've got directions on my website about how to provide me with accurate measurements that will make for a great fitting cage.

By the way... 55 lbs for a 4 point rollbar isn't that light. The full 6 point cage I just built for a 74 BMW 2002 weighed in at just around 85 lbs. with 1.5"x.095 DOM.

{edit... forgot my sig}

CarmonColvin

KirkRacing sells a SOLO I legal rollbar for the FC. Mark (the owner) ITS races an FC so he knows exactly how to build a good bar or cage for our cars.

I originally had one of his bars in my car then later pulled it out and let him install a 6pt. cage.

http://www.kirkracing.com/

Carl Byck

I have the Kirk Cage with the rear cross brace. I do not like how it does not go to the rear towers but fitment was good. I have to add a supplemental cross brace between the rear towers(Mark's car has this secondary brace), and up to the main hoop. Also, the rear cross brace(existing)interferes with my fuel cell placement. I would say it is a pretty good deal, but careful planning is definitely required in terms of order of assembly, and final design. My advice would be to use a local custom fabricator if funds allow. Otherwise, I would have Kirk duplicate one of the custom cages that can be seen on this site. Overall, fitment was good, with a little trimming required to get it in, I did not remove the roof, or cut out the floor to install mine. I think the other big thing I learned was to double, or triple the sheet metal where you are going to weld to the body, the sheet metal is like 30 gauge on an FC, not easy to weld to. I would also like to see some optional gussets. I will post some pics later. Carl
Does anyone know where I can purchase sheets, and /or shapes in the perforated gussett material found in "factory" cages such as BMW, and Porsche?

Speed Raycer

Carl... shoot me some dimensions and I can make them up for you

scott(at)izzyscustomcages(dot)com