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Old 04-07-12, 12:21 AM   #126
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Quote:
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25XP: you aren't running that low on your 23" tires... you should be fine. you might want to check the bearing travel as the control arm pivots though.

if I end up switching to 23" A6s I would have to keep it pretty high too because i have to drive to events to 25" tires
For now, I am running 23.5's in the front. When I was speaking with Tony, he asked out of curiousity what my frame weight was off the ground. Like at the front of the door jam. At the time, the car was on jacks, but he was asking if it was around 4" of clearance. I assume he was pulling that number based on EP cars ride height. I am not certain what diameter tire they run commonly in EP (roadrace) but I would think they are 15" wheels. The ride height I have seen from EP cars is really low.
I will have to wait until I set the ride height and check for binding. I doubt I am as low as EP cars are.
I am scheduled for the alignement shop in over a week, so I may have a clearer picture of what my ride height will be. I am looking forward to seeing what the overall weight of the car is.
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Old 04-08-12, 11:31 PM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 25XP View Post
FI am not certain what diameter tire they run commonly in EP (roadrace) but I would think they are 15" wheels.
EP runs 22.8" or 22.9" tall tires (23.0x9.5x15 bias ply, or 245/580R15 radial slicks, I think). Restricted to 15x7 wheels and 9.5" wide tires by the rules.
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Old 04-09-12, 09:48 AM   #128
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25XP: is there any reason you put the balljoint on top of the control arm? I just installed my roll center adjusters and did it to try to space the sway bar bracket down a bit (to improve the sway bar travel) and was surprised to see yours the same way. is it for the same reason?
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Old 04-09-12, 08:51 PM   #129
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25XP: is there any reason you put the balljoint on top of the control arm? I just installed my roll center adjusters and did it to try to space the sway bar bracket down a bit (to improve the sway bar travel) and was surprised to see yours the same way. is it for the same reason?
When I asked Tony about the location if the ball joint, he said to mount it on top of the LCA. I had seen it on the Mazdatrix EP car that same way too.
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Old 04-24-12, 11:27 AM   #130
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probably lol. that 13* gets used up real quick, i'm assuming tony checked that..
based on my halfass measurements, and usable travel with 25" tires, stock BJ angle is about perfect. looks like thats how Tony's are. with shorter tires, the bearing might bind, it would be worth it to check IMO.
I've installed my kit and it looks like the angle of the bearing is pretty good. I haven't checked it under compression, but and my suspension's full droop it looks like the bearing is either the limiting factor or it's pretty close to maxing out which bodes well for having maximum usage of the bearing articulation.

full droop:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-O...0/IMAG2029.jpg

bearing position:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G...0/IMAG2027.jpg
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Old 04-25-12, 03:30 AM   #131
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So, I went and got the car corner weighted and aligned yesterday. While I was hopeful of the weight loss program I had the car on this winter, I wasn't sure where I would weigh in at.
Although I removed the stock tank, with a light 5 gallon cell, I added the swirl pot, FBR and extra pump. I ditched the lexan rear Nascar spoiler for a dual plane CF unit. Removed a lot from the doors, alum door skins and dash. A host of gauges.

When Tim at TFB (highly recommended for alignments and such) gave me the weight, I was pretty happy.
Wet weight, full cell...2075 pounds. Still almost 100 over min weight.

I still have a few things I can drop some weight on the car and plans are to make a few CF parts. Rear tail lights and lic plate section, sunroof, fuel fill door etc. I also have a full size Red top battery, all 4 stock tow hooks(heavy). If I could squeeze 75 pounds out of her without going crazy I would be happy.

Also, Tim (TFB) came up with an excellent solution to the ST bars and binding the endlinks. The car was lowered even more in the front, and there was going to be no way to install the links without binding. So, a nifty threaded collar to my custom Bilstein purch as thought up. Then a link drops down to the swaybar without binding. Very trick part, he said Ground Control was making kits like this for the BMW's. I will snap some pics.

The car corner weighed out nicely with the new ride height. I was able to drop all rear camber if I wanted. We decided on .5 degree negative in the rear, but with the independent rear camber kit, all could be lost. Now, finally maybe I can use more than 3/4 of my rear slick.

Overall, happy with the way the car is coming along, now I just have to remember how to drive it. Fresh Hoosier (for now) are on the way, hopefully there make it here before the LA Pro.
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Old 04-25-12, 10:42 AM   #132
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what is the bar hitting?

mine was hitting on 2 of the steering rack bolts... and I fixed it by replacing them with shorter bolts.
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Old 04-25-12, 02:20 PM   #133
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2075... nice.
Gives me hope for my FP goal weight.
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Old 04-25-12, 03:19 PM   #134
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you coming up to packwood NT? i really wanna see this car!
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Old 04-27-12, 02:31 AM   #135
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Quote:
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what is the bar hitting?

mine was hitting on 2 of the steering rack bolts... and I fixed it by replacing them with shorter bolts.
No it wasn't hitting the rack bolts, it was the distance from the link to the swaybar mount. Here is a picture of the new mount that threads onto the strut. Pretty slick IMO.
The swaybar is very close to the p/s rack, but it clears. I may notch the s/b mount if need be, have to see if it hits.

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Old 04-27-12, 02:37 AM   #136
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I fabbed the shroud for the fuel cell and all the fuel system that is inside the car. I wanted to make it light, simple and easily removable. I used 4 dzus sliders to secure it. The bottom was notched as close to the contour of the hatch as best as possible. Then I lined the bottom of the shroud with a DEI heat barrier sleeve that I made into a "gasket". It works out pretty well to fill in all the contours.

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Old 04-27-12, 02:47 AM   #137
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A couple of light weight goodies that I made today.
They will save me another 18 pounds off my weight.
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Old 04-28-12, 07:19 PM   #138
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great job so far! can we have a peek under the fuel cell shroud?

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Old 04-29-12, 06:06 PM   #139
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Subscribed! Nice car
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Old 04-29-12, 11:04 PM   #140
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I drove the car in anger for the first time in about 2 years. There are a lot of differences that I thought I would have to get used to, but overall it was what I remember only a bit faster, quicker and lighter.

The old Hoosier slicks that I had on treated me as expected, very slippy. I can't wait till the new ones arrive.

I had a couple things happend on my last fun run that I need to sort out.
Oil leak
I changed the oil pressure regualtor to a FD stock unit, and I am getting great pressure. However, I did not place a gasket on the alum oil cap and my new filler neck, so the cap spun off. I didn't see oil under the car after that run.
Also, with the added pressure, my "thought it was tight" clamp on my oil vent line may have created the leak. Regardless, my last fun run was held due to a puddle of oil under the car, and bleeding like a stuck pig from somewhere.
While I am now hoping it was either from the missing oil cap gasket, or the vent tube, I thought it was coming from what I now realize is a brass coolant sensor.
There are a lot of potential oil leaks in one small area.

Get her back in the garage, and it still looked like the oil leak was coming from where the coolant temp (driver side of motor, just above the heater hose) I spin the brass sensor out, clean and reinstal, and I felt a slight slip when I tightened it. Check for leaks and got one there. Pulled it out, thread tape on, install it and the hex head twisted off, leaving the brass threads.
There is little to NO part to grab with needle nose. Suggestions on getting it out? There is pretty limited room to get in there.

Thanks,
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Old 04-30-12, 10:15 AM   #141
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that's also where the stock oil pressure gauge sender is... that's probably what's leaking. or the oil pedestal/filter.

you could try just using a bolt-out on it, but I'm not sure how well it'll work. how tight is it? can you fit a drill down there?
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Old 04-30-12, 08:52 PM   #142
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Quote:
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that's also where the stock oil pressure gauge sender is... that's probably what's leaking. or the oil pedestal/filter.

you could try just using a bolt-out on it, but I'm not sure how well it'll work. how tight is it? can you fit a drill down there?
My oil pressure gauge fts into the stock oil pressure sender, and it was not leaking. I am crossing my fingers it was the vent hose, as it looked like it may have been further forward than the oil pressure sender.

I bought extracting bits today, but I am not sure if it will work on a hollow bolt/sensor to well. I will give it a try tomorrow.

Also, I found out that my Hoosier's will not be delivered on time because Hoosier is not making the 25x12x16 at this time.

I may go with 17's and run the Hoosier A6 DOT tire. If I stick with 16's, then it looks like Avon's are going to be what I run. They are stupid soft and I know a few people are already winning with them. Downside is the shipping from over the pond.

That being said, I have to research the 17" options. I have seen a car on the forum with the TriPoint wide body kit and 17's. If anyone knows a thread or who has that combo, please let me know.

Looks like if I can stop the leak I will still make the El Toro Pro although my traction will suffer. I would like to see Zust's Elise in action, just not his times compared to mine. lol
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Old 05-01-12, 10:29 AM   #143
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Quote:
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My oil pressure gauge fts into the stock oil pressure sender, and it was not leaking. I am crossing my fingers it was the vent hose, as it looked like it may have been further forward than the oil pressure sender.

I bought extracting bits today, but I am not sure if it will work on a hollow bolt/sensor to well. I will give it a try tomorrow.

Also, I found out that my Hoosier's will not be delivered on time because Hoosier is not making the 25x12x16 at this time.

I may go with 17's and run the Hoosier A6 DOT tire. If I stick with 16's, then it looks like Avon's are going to be what I run. They are stupid soft and I know a few people are already winning with them. Downside is the shipping from over the pond.

That being said, I have to research the 17" options. I have seen a car on the forum with the TriPoint wide body kit and 17's. If anyone knows a thread or who has that combo, please let me know.

Looks like if I can stop the leak I will still make the El Toro Pro although my traction will suffer. I would like to see Zust's Elise in action, just not his times compared to mine. lol
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I'd personally go with Avons. I've heard they're significantly faster than A6s by a few seconds (from EP guys) I'm surprised no one carries them over here... I have avons on my motorcycle that I got pretty easily.

if it helps you at all here is my car with 245/45/17 Front 275/40/17 Rear on stock fenders... You could probably fit 275/315s easy maybe bigger.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 05-01-12, 02:21 PM   #144
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I'm not sure which Avons you are looking for, but Roger Kraus sells Avons. http://rogerkrausracing.com/pages/pricing.html
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Old 05-01-12, 06:05 PM   #145
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Ok, so I have been trying to figure out why my car is leaking a lot of oil since the last event.

New Oil filer, assured pedistal was tight.
Assured oil pressure sending unit (non stock now) is tight.
Although I snapped the coolant temp sensor head, I was able to temporarily seal it. When I open it up, coolant comes out, not oil.
Vent tubing secure as well as filler car and neck.

When I start the car, OIL seeps out from between the rear iron housing and the steel rotor housing. I can not see it up there, but is oil above the coolant temp sensor after the car is started and leak occurs.

So, what happened? I am not an expert on internals, is it a stretched pin, broken seal. Seems like the only way to tell is a tear down....?
The car didn't get hot, starts and runs just fine

Thanks,
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Old 05-01-12, 08:15 PM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 25XP View Post
Ok, so I have been trying to figure out why my car is leaking a lot of oil since the last event.

New Oil filer, assured pedistal was tight.
Assured oil pressure sending unit (non stock now) is tight.
Although I snapped the coolant temp sensor head, I was able to temporarily seal it. When I open it up, coolant comes out, not oil.
Vent tubing secure as well as filler car and neck.

When I start the car, OIL seeps out from between the rear iron housing and the steel rotor housing. I can not see it up there, but is oil above the coolant temp sensor after the car is started and leak occurs.

So, what happened? I am not an expert on internals, is it a stretched pin, broken seal. Seems like the only way to tell is a tear down....?
The car didn't get hot, starts and runs just fine

Thanks,
25XP
Dowel pin crack on the side plate?
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Old 05-01-12, 09:16 PM   #147
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Dowel pin crack on the side plate?
I am thinking maybe a engine stud stretched under boost??
Mazdatrix sells oversize stud kits, probably just for this reason.

Ok engine builders, does this mean a full tear down of the motor, or just re-studding it?
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Old 05-01-12, 11:53 PM   #148
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I am thinking maybe a engine stud stretched under boost??
Mazdatrix sells oversize stud kits, probably just for this reason.

Ok engine builders, does this mean a full tear down of the motor, or just re-studding it?
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Let me clarify, I do not already have a engine studs, I ment dowel pins.
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Old 05-03-12, 08:29 AM   #149
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Quote:
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I am thinking maybe a engine stud stretched under boost??
Mazdatrix sells oversize stud kits, probably just for this reason.

Ok engine builders, does this mean a full tear down of the motor, or just re-studding it?
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Depending on the leak.. could be a weep.. to a more volumnous leak.
There is a oring around the dowel pins, that could be leaking..
The fact its oil points to that.. if it was coolant.. then I would lean to housing damage/warping.

Make sure to check and make sure there isnt any pressure in the coolant system/exhaust gassing into the coolant. Thats a different issue and would be giving different evidence.

Sadly the leaking around a dowel pin would only be fixable with a teardown of the engine. And it is very likely a o-ring around a dowel pin. OR.. in a more painful case.. a crack in the dowel area. causing rotor housing replacement, or steel housing replacement. Depending on the crack.

Realistically.. unless you can get in there REALLY close with a boroscope to look at the surface condition closely.. (clean with brake cleaner etc till its spotless.. then find the weep source... crack or joint between housings) you wont be able to see if there is a crack untill a teardown.

I have seen engines that are on street cars with a leaking oring there.. and they drove the damn thing for 10s of thousands of miles weeping oil slowly.. and always seeming to have a small collection of it... but no ill effects.
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Old 05-05-12, 02:51 AM   #150
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Spent some time under the hood the past few days. For some reason, I have decided to change everything that was painted blue to black. I also wanted to continue mocking up the new fuel lines. The braided SS lines are pretty forgiving as far as non movable parts. You can simple add a bit of hose to make it work. The hard lines that come all the way up from the cell in the back take a lot more effort to end up exactly where you need them. But, it's getting there.

I had to mock up the manifolds to figure out the fuel lines, and I couldn't help snapping some shots of them.

Also covered the fuel rails, because well why not?
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Old 05-05-12, 02:51 AM
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