Power FC PowerFC LCD Tweak.
#27
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Sorry for my late responce. and finally I find solution for this problem.
Yes. it is contrast problem. earlier commander has fcc2 version main board. and later version of Commander has fcc3 version board. fcc3 board has contrast problem.
FCC3 version main board.
apply 1.2kohm resister between LCD #2~#3 pin. and cut #18 pattern.
Detail picture of resister.
hope this help everyone~ thanks.
Yes. it is contrast problem. earlier commander has fcc2 version main board. and later version of Commander has fcc3 version board. fcc3 board has contrast problem.
FCC3 version main board.
apply 1.2kohm resister between LCD #2~#3 pin. and cut #18 pattern.
Detail picture of resister.
hope this help everyone~ thanks.
Last edited by Jin-74; 05-11-16 at 06:12 AM.
#28
Sorry for my late responce. and finally I find solution for this problem.
Yes. it is contrast problem. earlier commander has fcc2 version main board. and later version of Commander has fcc3 version board. fcc3 board has contrast problem.
FCC3 version main board.
apply 1.2kohm resister between LCD #2~#3 pin. and cut #18 pattern.
Detail picture of resister.
hope this help everyone~ thanks.
Yes. it is contrast problem. earlier commander has fcc2 version main board. and later version of Commander has fcc3 version board. fcc3 board has contrast problem.
FCC3 version main board.
apply 1.2kohm resister between LCD #2~#3 pin. and cut #18 pattern.
Detail picture of resister.
hope this help everyone~ thanks.
Anyway later I'll try to connect resistor between those 2 pins since right now I don't have any resistor... Below is my FC commander...
Fc commander contrast issue
#32
Full Member
iTrader: (7)
Pretty sure I found an LCD that will work and it is located stateside. Question: If I have the old FCC2 board, do I still have to install a resistor between the #2 and #3 pin and cut pin 18? It appears from the write up that cutting pin 18 and wiring in the resistor is only required on FCC3 board. Is that correct?
#33
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Pretty sure I found an LCD that will work and it is located stateside. Question: If I have the old FCC2 board, do I still have to install a resistor between the #2 and #3 pin and cut pin 18? It appears from the write up that cutting pin 18 and wiring in the resistor is only required on FCC3 board. Is that correct?
#34
Full Member
iTrader: (7)
I just did this on an FCC3 Board with a display that I finally found! It took many hours of searching for it but I now have a source for the screens. I have some tips for everyone who wants to try doing this.
1) Take the two screws out of the back of the Commander and the back cover should separate easily from the front.
2) If you don't know how to solder a circuit board, stop here and find someone who does. That what I did and many, many thanks, to my friend Mark who helped me out here.
3) Set your adjustable solder iron to 280C. Too hot and you are just going to burn stuff up. and SMD workstation is available from e-bay for about 60 bucks. Way worth it. Use a really fine pointed solder tip. Make sure to keep it tinned, which is really just a small amount of solder on the tip.
4) Heat each pin individually until they are ready to pull out. These pins are small and if you don't have a good work area and really fine tweezers, stop here. If you do have a good lighted work area, then continue.
5) pull all twenty pins.
6) go back and heat each hole that is filled with solder until it becomes liquid. Use a solder sucker (also available on e-bay) to suck up the solder while it's hot.
7) once you have removed as much solder as possible, the lcd should separate from the main board. A little coaxing doesn't hurt it, just don't break the damn thing.
8) You are now ready to solder in the new screen.
1) Take the two screws out of the back of the Commander and the back cover should separate easily from the front.
2) If you don't know how to solder a circuit board, stop here and find someone who does. That what I did and many, many thanks, to my friend Mark who helped me out here.
3) Set your adjustable solder iron to 280C. Too hot and you are just going to burn stuff up. and SMD workstation is available from e-bay for about 60 bucks. Way worth it. Use a really fine pointed solder tip. Make sure to keep it tinned, which is really just a small amount of solder on the tip.
4) Heat each pin individually until they are ready to pull out. These pins are small and if you don't have a good work area and really fine tweezers, stop here. If you do have a good lighted work area, then continue.
5) pull all twenty pins.
6) go back and heat each hole that is filled with solder until it becomes liquid. Use a solder sucker (also available on e-bay) to suck up the solder while it's hot.
7) once you have removed as much solder as possible, the lcd should separate from the main board. A little coaxing doesn't hurt it, just don't break the damn thing.
8) You are now ready to solder in the new screen.
#35
Full Member
iTrader: (7)
Continued.
9) Line up the holes on the LCD board with the driver board or main board. Solder in pin one and pin twenty. That will hold your LCD display board in place while you solder the remaining 17 pins. Yes I said 17.
10) when you get to hole 18, leave that pin out. Do not connect pin 18. It has something to do with negative voltage which I do not understand and quite frankly don't care about as long as it works.
11) when you have all the pins soldered in and are satisfied with your work, pin 18 should have a race (that's what they call it) coming from it that you can see on the circuit board. That's what carries the negative voltage I guess. Get a razor blade and cut that race just to make sure that nothing is flowing through it.
9) Line up the holes on the LCD board with the driver board or main board. Solder in pin one and pin twenty. That will hold your LCD display board in place while you solder the remaining 17 pins. Yes I said 17.
10) when you get to hole 18, leave that pin out. Do not connect pin 18. It has something to do with negative voltage which I do not understand and quite frankly don't care about as long as it works.
11) when you have all the pins soldered in and are satisfied with your work, pin 18 should have a race (that's what they call it) coming from it that you can see on the circuit board. That's what carries the negative voltage I guess. Get a razor blade and cut that race just to make sure that nothing is flowing through it.
#36
Full Member
iTrader: (7)
Continued.
12) Each LCD replacement board has different requirements for resistors to get the resistance right. for previous posters it was a surface mounted resistor of 1.2kOHM which in layman's terms is 1200. The resistors, also available on e-bay dirt cheap, must be soldered in between pin two and pin three.
13) To find the resistance you need, solder a spare wire into pin two and one into pin three. Hook up a potentiometer (variable resistor) to those two wires.
14) plug in your commander to the PFC. turn ignition on. The LCD will probably look like crap. Too bright or too dark, perhaps you can see letters from an angle. adjust the potentiometer until you have a good picture on the screen. The display should be sharp and clear.
15) Turn off your ignition. unhook the variable resistor. Don't mess with the **** at all.
16) Hook up a volt meter, even one from harbor freight will work and find the resistance of the variable resistor. Mine was 650 ohms.
12) Each LCD replacement board has different requirements for resistors to get the resistance right. for previous posters it was a surface mounted resistor of 1.2kOHM which in layman's terms is 1200. The resistors, also available on e-bay dirt cheap, must be soldered in between pin two and pin three.
13) To find the resistance you need, solder a spare wire into pin two and one into pin three. Hook up a potentiometer (variable resistor) to those two wires.
14) plug in your commander to the PFC. turn ignition on. The LCD will probably look like crap. Too bright or too dark, perhaps you can see letters from an angle. adjust the potentiometer until you have a good picture on the screen. The display should be sharp and clear.
15) Turn off your ignition. unhook the variable resistor. Don't mess with the **** at all.
16) Hook up a volt meter, even one from harbor freight will work and find the resistance of the variable resistor. Mine was 650 ohms.
#37
Full Member
iTrader: (7)
Continued.
17) since I had 1.2kOHM resistors already, I needed to figure out how to get to 650 or thereabouts. My friend Mark suggested stacking two of the resistors I had between pin two and three. He did that which basically made a 610 OHM resistor. Plugged the commander in, turned on the key, and the results were perfect. I will try to post up pics of my display one I figure out how to do it. It looks just like the previous successful posters pics.
17) since I had 1.2kOHM resistors already, I needed to figure out how to get to 650 or thereabouts. My friend Mark suggested stacking two of the resistors I had between pin two and three. He did that which basically made a 610 OHM resistor. Plugged the commander in, turned on the key, and the results were perfect. I will try to post up pics of my display one I figure out how to do it. It looks just like the previous successful posters pics.
#40
Just Boosting
iTrader: (8)
Pretty sure I found an LCD that will work and it is located stateside. Question: If I have the old FCC2 board, do I still have to install a resistor between the #2 and #3 pin and cut pin 18? It appears from the write up that cutting pin 18 and wiring in the resistor is only required on FCC3 board. Is that correct?
#42
these the links i'm purchased my LCD & button LED
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5V-W...e-70b3d4d4c174
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale...t=smd+1206+led
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5V-W...e-70b3d4d4c174
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale...t=smd+1206+led
#44
half ass 2 or whole ass 1
iTrader: (114)
thanks a lot for that
heres a direct link. just ordered mine and it came out to 27.92 shipped with usps in a flat rate box. they do accept paypal
https://www.crystalfontz.com/product...128x64-graphic
heres a direct link. just ordered mine and it came out to 27.92 shipped with usps in a flat rate box. they do accept paypal
https://www.crystalfontz.com/product...128x64-graphic
Last edited by cr-rex; 09-26-16 at 02:51 PM.
#45
Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
thanks a lot for that
heres a direct link. just ordered mine and it came out to 27.92 shipped with usps in a flat rate box. they do accept paypal
https://www.crystalfontz.com/product...128x64-graphic
heres a direct link. just ordered mine and it came out to 27.92 shipped with usps in a flat rate box. they do accept paypal
https://www.crystalfontz.com/product...128x64-graphic
Last edited by Billy7; 09-26-16 at 04:38 PM.
#46
Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Quick update: I almost got everything to work. Sadly, I have trouble cutting pin 18. Is it ok to "insulate" it between the 2 boards? Slipping something in between looks easier than scraping it with a razor blade. By the way I used a 1kohm resistor since I didn't have a 1.2k. Somewhat legible for now until I get a variable resistor.
#47
Full Member
iTrader: (7)
Pin 18 should be removed completely. Just heat it and pull it. Don't slip something in between. You only need to cut the race. Its a little copper "lane" that comes from hole 18 on the board. Get a razor blade and cut the race crosswise thereby cutting off the flow of electricity from the source to where pin 18 is supposed to go.
#48
Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Pin 18 should be removed completely. Just heat it and pull it. Don't slip something in between. You only need to cut the race. Its a little copper "lane" that comes from hole 18 on the board. Get a razor blade and cut the race crosswise thereby cutting off the flow of electricity from the source to where pin 18 is supposed to go.
#50
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Join Date: Mar 2017
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My FCC2 works very good with http://www.crystalfontz.com/product/...64B-TMI-V.html and 470 ohm resistor. FCC2 need resistor too.
Thanks for the informations in this topic.
http://imageshack.com/a/img924/4238/4NPTIn.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img922/973/ydMcFB.jpg
Thanks for the informations in this topic.
http://imageshack.com/a/img924/4238/4NPTIn.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img922/973/ydMcFB.jpg
Last edited by dumogi; 03-28-17 at 12:31 PM. Reason: add images