How to make your knock/injector warning light work!

DaleClark · 02-02-07, 05:24 PM

OK, sat down and wrote a how-to on this sucker today. Right click and save as to your PC -

http://www.clubrx.org/media/pfc/pfcwarn.pdf

Let me know if any parts aren't clear or something is wrong and I'll revise the document.

In a nutshell - you add another wire to the stock wiring harness, and tap it into the Check Engine light. With this done, the PowerFC will blink the Check Engine light if you have excessive knock or excessive injector duty cycle. Works just fine on my car. This adaptation is necessary since the Japanese cars (for which the PFC was designed) have a different warning light system.

This is quite handy, as it's easily in your field of view when driving - you'll know when to let off if you're seeing too much knock.

Enjoy,
Dale

cewrx7r1 · 02-02-07, 05:43 PM

I went to the FD forum, followed the link to where the FSM is posted as a zip file,
downloaded it, went to section F and found the B-1b diagram,
and there was the EL Unit and pins labeled.

Did all of this even though I already have the original manuals from Mazda.
Why, to show that Dale gave all that was needed.

"So easy even a caveman can do it."

HDP · 02-02-07, 05:44 PM

Is the diagram you drew of the ELD connector from the wire side or the pin side?

DaleClark · 02-02-07, 05:49 PM

Wiring diagrams are always from the wire side.

Yeah, it was already documented, but it was scattered about, and I wanted to put it all together in one place for posterity.

Dale

HDP · 02-02-07, 06:01 PM

Could the O/B wire be backed out of the ELD harness and connected directly to the wire coming from the 1V pin? It would be easier to connect it like that than trying to strip back the insulation.

Noxlupus · 02-02-07, 07:02 PM

Dale, you are the man! I don't care what HDP says about you!

(Haven't we been here before?)

HDP · 02-02-07, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noxlupus

Dale, you are the man! I don't care what HDP says about you!

(Haven't we been here before?)

DaleClark · 02-02-07, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HDP

Could the O/B wire be backed out of the ELD harness and connected directly to the wire coming from the 1V pin? It would be easier to connect it like that than trying to strip back the insulation.

Seriously doubt it - that wire is WAY too short going into the ELD box, and the pin is most likely different, since it's a different connector style. Not to mention how impossible it would be to pull that pin out of the ELD connector - that sucker is WAY buried in there.

Dale

HDP · 02-02-07, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaleClark

Seriously doubt it - that wire is WAY too short going into the ELD box, and the pin is most likely different, since it's a different connector style. Not to mention how impossible it would be to pull that pin out of the ELD connector - that sucker is WAY buried in there.

Dale

I have a way I can connect it, I just need to know if removing it from the harness will matter.

DaleClark · 02-02-07, 10:04 PM

Hey, if it'll work, go for it

. Shouldn't matter if you pull it from the ELD box.

Dale

ReadyKW · 02-02-07, 10:32 PM

Great info Dale. If I understand correctly from the other threads, this mod will also flash the CEL when the ignition is turned on (to appease the Smog Gods), correct?

DaleClark · 02-02-07, 11:00 PM

Correct. Light comes on with the key to On position, car not running, then goes out about 1-2 seconds after engine start.

Dale

woundup7 · 02-03-07, 12:51 AM

So say if I want to add a light to my car, to make up this warning system. I have an 82 FB, The output from 1V is a negative, the ecu grounds this wire out. Is this correct? So I would just wire the other side of the aftermarket LED or idiot light, to a key on, positive wire.

Thanks

DaleClark · 02-03-07, 08:52 AM

In theory - I'd check the output with a multimeter to see if it's 12v or ground, that's the best way to be sure.

Dale

badddrx7 · 02-03-07, 09:36 AM

Correct - use a 1.4watt bulb like the stocker is. One side is 12v ignition, other side connect to 1V from the pfc.

Idiot light circuit is fed from the "meter" 12v ingintion circuit on one side. The O/B wire has to be the ground.

tom

Herblenny · 02-05-07, 09:49 AM

Grrrrreat! write up Dale!

I might have to give this a try?

NissanConvert · 02-19-07, 02:39 PM

I don't have any probes so i'm using a set of "precision" screwdrivers to try to lift that tang and pull the connector out.

It isn't working.

I've tried lifting with one and pushing with another. lifting and pulling with my teeth. burying my face in the housing to see whats going on and trying. This is rediculous.

HDP · 02-20-07, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NissanConvert

I don't have any probes so i'm using a set of "precision" screwdrivers to try to lift that tang and pull the connector out.

It isn't working.

I've tried lifting with one and pushing with another. lifting and pulling with my teeth. burying my face in the housing to see whats going on and trying. This is rediculous.

Use a heavy-duty safety pin or hat pin.

NissanConvert · 02-20-07, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HDP

Use a heavy-duty safety pin or hat pin.

It's sorted, i broke it. At least 5 or 6 of the connectors were salvagable, which is good because i broke two of them trying to get them to go into the 7 harness.

The one that i pulled out of the 626 had two little (tiny) metal tabs on the bottom that i had to break off but then it slid right in.

It's a lot easier to use these connectors on the orange and black wire than to solder. just slide your jumper wire in one side influence the orange and black wire in the other and crimp- done.

GtoRx7 · 02-21-07, 03:07 PM

good write-up!