FD3S 2JZ Big Single/AEM/R154 Swap
12-24-12, 01:06 PM
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FD3S 2JZ Big Single/AEM/R154 Swap
Hello Everyone,
, im in the process of completing my 2jz swap. Love rotaries but ive had exceptionally bad luck with them and decided to go another route as far as the power plant is concerned. Quick details on the engine, it has less than 10k miles since being built. The head is fully built with HKS 272 cams, Titan Motorsports Cam Gears, full port and polish and intake match, valve springs retainers and all that AND L19 headstuds. OEM toyata MLS is good for 1k horsepower. On the Exhaust side i had a Driftmotion 2JZ Turbo manifold, Giant Borg Warner S475 Turbo and Tial Wastegate with 10lb spring and my APEXI AVC-R Boost Controller. As far as fuel is concerned, im running an Aeromotive 340 in tank as well as a Bosch 044 in line to fuel my HKS Fuel rail and 1600cc Injectors. And for driveline, Im running a fresh R154 with 1JZ bellhousing , ACT stage 4 clutch setup and Driftmotion Lightweight 1JZ flywheel and ARP Bolts throughout. For computer tuning the AEM Version 2 for the 2JZ covers everything i would need to make big power EXCEPT a flex Fuel sensor. Thats the only thing i dont like about this EMS. Maybe ill go Haltech sooner or later.
On to the Pics, ill try to capture everything. if you want specific pics let me know. If you see any errors let me know. I believe ive thought of and covered everything involved with this swap and NO I DID NOT NEED AN AFTERMARKET HOOD!! Even with this GIANT Compressor Housing.
, im in the process of completing my 2jz swap. Love rotaries but ive had exceptionally bad luck with them and decided to go another route as far as the power plant is concerned. Quick details on the engine, it has less than 10k miles since being built. The head is fully built with HKS 272 cams, Titan Motorsports Cam Gears, full port and polish and intake match, valve springs retainers and all that AND L19 headstuds. OEM toyata MLS is good for 1k horsepower. On the Exhaust side i had a Driftmotion 2JZ Turbo manifold, Giant Borg Warner S475 Turbo and Tial Wastegate with 10lb spring and my APEXI AVC-R Boost Controller. As far as fuel is concerned, im running an Aeromotive 340 in tank as well as a Bosch 044 in line to fuel my HKS Fuel rail and 1600cc Injectors. And for driveline, Im running a fresh R154 with 1JZ bellhousing , ACT stage 4 clutch setup and Driftmotion Lightweight 1JZ flywheel and ARP Bolts throughout. For computer tuning the AEM Version 2 for the 2JZ covers everything i would need to make big power EXCEPT a flex Fuel sensor. Thats the only thing i dont like about this EMS. Maybe ill go Haltech sooner or later.
On to the Pics, ill try to capture everything. if you want specific pics let me know. If you see any errors let me know. I believe ive thought of and covered everything involved with this swap and NO I DID NOT NEED AN AFTERMARKET HOOD!! Even with this GIANT Compressor Housing.
12-28-12, 09:26 AM
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I'll cut to the chase and ask you what everyone is going to want to know:
1.) How did you correct the bumpsteer?
2.) How much did you lower the steering rack?
3.) What is your oil pan-to-ground clearance?
1.) How did you correct the bumpsteer?
2.) How much did you lower the steering rack?
3.) What is your oil pan-to-ground clearance?
12-28-12, 09:48 AM
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1. Bump steer isnt going to be an issue. the steering rack is parallel to the lower control arms and NOT below it.
2. rack was lowered about an 1in to1.25in
3. about 6-7 in, keep in mind my car is slammed and on a 17in wheel setup. With 18s and raising my car just a hair there will be no issues with ground clearance, but im not raising my car. And By putting the motor as low and as far back as possible in the engine bay i was able to utilize the stock hood.
2. rack was lowered about an 1in to1.25in
3. about 6-7 in, keep in mind my car is slammed and on a 17in wheel setup. With 18s and raising my car just a hair there will be no issues with ground clearance, but im not raising my car. And By putting the motor as low and as far back as possible in the engine bay i was able to utilize the stock hood.
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12-28-12, 07:14 PM
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1. Bump steer isnt going to be an issue. the steering rack is parallel to the lower control arms and NOT below it.
2. rack was lowered about an 1in to1.25in
3. about 6-7 in, keep in mind my car is slammed and on a 17in wheel setup. With 18s and raising my car just a hair there will be no issues with ground clearance, but im not raising my car. And By putting the motor as low and as far back as possible in the engine bay i was able to utilize the stock hood.
2. rack was lowered about an 1in to1.25in
3. about 6-7 in, keep in mind my car is slammed and on a 17in wheel setup. With 18s and raising my car just a hair there will be no issues with ground clearance, but im not raising my car. And By putting the motor as low and as far back as possible in the engine bay i was able to utilize the stock hood.
I'll admit, I asked the question knowing there is no way to put a 2J under a stock hood and correct the bumpsteer with any commercially available correction kit. I guess maybe you could if you used a dry-sump setup.
12-29-12, 01:16 PM
#10
If you changed the height of the rack, there will be bumpsteer. The question is now "how much?"
I'll admit, I asked the question knowing there is no way to put a 2J under a stock hood and correct the bumpsteer with any commercially available correction kit. I guess maybe you could if you used a dry-sump setup.
I'll admit, I asked the question knowing there is no way to put a 2J under a stock hood and correct the bumpsteer with any commercially available correction kit. I guess maybe you could if you used a dry-sump setup.
Even at stock ride height, if you lower the rack you'll have bumper steer. This must be compensated for.
I've lowered my rack 1 inch and have the correct kit for the tie rods, but I still believe I'm having a bit of bump steer with hard cornering.
The solution is to build/buy/borrow a bump steer gauge, measure and correct for it. This is my plan....
12-31-12, 01:06 PM
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If you changed the height of the rack, there will be bumpsteer. The question is now "how much?"
I'll admit, I asked the question knowing there is no way to put a 2J under a stock hood and correct the bumpsteer with any commercially available correction kit. I guess maybe you could if you used a dry-sump setup.
I'll admit, I asked the question knowing there is no way to put a 2J under a stock hood and correct the bumpsteer with any commercially available correction kit. I guess maybe you could if you used a dry-sump setup.
Well than i stand corrected. It was understanding that bumpsteer was manageable if you keep the rack and tie rods above the lower control arms. Anywho, I wont be able to fully evaluate "how much" until i finish and get it out on the road and figure it out. Thanks for your insight and feedback
01-03-13, 03:09 PM
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Shifter Extender is now done, also finished up the welding of the subframe and the motor is in the care for good. all thats left now is wiring, finishing the radiator mounts, intercooler piping and other small random things. Should be done and started within the week.
01-12-13, 12:12 PM
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I'm using the koyo aluminum radiator from my rotary setup, retrofitted. I'm trying to get my hands on a 1jz hydraulic fan setup they flow massive cfm's. And the AEM can control it.
As for the bracket, nothing wrong with practicing aluminum welding.
As for the bracket, nothing wrong with practicing aluminum welding.
01-17-13, 10:10 PM
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another update
another quick update on the build. Got the intercooler and radiator bracket finished up, the petit racing intercooler fan is installed, just finished up the intercooler piping (3in all around with a GReddy type s installed, might need to add another one soon lol).
Also got the wiring in and first start already happened. the hks 272 cams and 1600cc injectors make the car sound and idle like a freakin monster, i love it. Video coming soon. On to the pics.
Also got the wiring in and first start already happened. the hks 272 cams and 1600cc injectors make the car sound and idle like a freakin monster, i love it. Video coming soon. On to the pics.
01-27-13, 08:33 PM
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For clarification purposes. heres the intercooler/radiator bracket with the tow hook mounted back up and a ruler:
On the progress: Got a second BOV installed because the GReddy Type S coouldn't the job of releasing all the pressure on its own. Added a 50mm BOV. Also in keeping with the Veilside theme i got going on, i managed to get my hands on set of Veilside Andrew V's in a nice 18x10 and 18x9 stagger. Intend on doing some pulling and rolling to fit a chunky set of tires around them.
On the progress: Got a second BOV installed because the GReddy Type S coouldn't the job of releasing all the pressure on its own. Added a 50mm BOV. Also in keeping with the Veilside theme i got going on, i managed to get my hands on set of Veilside Andrew V's in a nice 18x10 and 18x9 stagger. Intend on doing some pulling and rolling to fit a chunky set of tires around them.
02-19-13, 08:06 PM
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updates
Quick update: Got the Exhaust and downpipe in, fuel system done, and the veilside wheels on (waiting until after diff to put the r888s on 
...). Its been running strong for about a week now no problems besides the diff.. waaaayyyy to much power for the stock diff, stay posted 8.8 COMING SOON. im running a magnafuel 750 external pump now, 10an all the way from the custom fuel sump 
*on to the pics:*
Oh and StopTechs up front, big brakes in the rear. Gotta be able to STOP lmao *thanks Mark*
...). Its been running strong for about a week now no problems besides the diff.. waaaayyyy to much power for the stock diff, stay posted 8.8 COMING SOON. im running a magnafuel 750 external pump now, 10an all the way from the custom fuel sump *on to the pics:*Oh and StopTechs up front, big brakes in the rear. Gotta be able to STOP lmao *thanks Mark*
