bewtew

iTrader: (7)

i think the megan kit is like $140 and to make the studs was around $100 at a machine shop.

i forgot how long they are.. i'll look for the paper but they clear 18" wheels or just measure and see how long u need them

era1oner

iTrader: (1)

Opps I was reading another post and meant to comment on that one.wr

YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (19)

So, you paid $140 for the Megan "kit" which included what?...and then an additional $100 at the machine shop?...or does this Megan "kit" come with everything? I'm confused.

How long do they extend also? 2"?

bewtew

iTrader: (7)

i bought a megan kit which includes everything u see in the first pic and than i had a machine shop make me a longer stud. i dont know exactly how long the stud is.. if i find the paper ill let u know.

YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (19)

A little bummed.

I stopped by the shop on Friday to see how she was doing.

They ran into a slight hick-up with the wiring harness because apparently the harness itself has like 3 wires for the Cam Position Sensor, but the 7M-GTE CPS that I have to use only has 2 wires..

I gotta tell you, although visually, the quality of the Chase Bays wiring harness is great...

Those guys are absolute retards and jerks for not having properly labeled ANYTHING and for including a lot of plugs that we didn't need/didn't request.

:/

Once the shop can get the wiring all squared away, it should be smooth(er) sailing from then on, with finishing up the fabrication/plumbing for everything.

Of course, things ALWAYS come up with these kinds of projects...So at this point I'm just gonna stop by the shop about once every 2 weeks to see how they're doing..

Exidous

I would like to suggest the hinson inner (if you can find it) and sanberg outer bump steer correction together. The end you have there is pretty long and I'd be concerned about it being too long and snapping on you. I've had one snap before driving normally and it did not go over well.

Also the longer outer bump steer will get really close if not hit the wheel.

YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (19)

I'm confused. Hinson inner what? Can you post links to this stuff?

What end is pretty long that you're concerned about it snapping?

YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (19)

Question guys.

I'm afraid of breaking the stock diff in my FD once the car is running.

I have a custom-fabricated brace in place right now, but I was hoping for some input on what I could do to either strengthen the stock diff, or if simply purchasing an aftermarket diff would fix the problem?

I just don't wanna break anything back there from all the powaaaaaaaaaaaa, you know?

mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

Turbo II clutch type LSD for the win. Drops in the Fd diff case with no probs. you can get them used for around 250ish

YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (19)

Thanks, manny.

If I invested in an aftermarket LSD like Kaaz or something, is that also a viable option?

YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (19)

Looks like I've found a good option for bumpsteer correction..

I came across Hinson Super Car's Bumpsteer Kit:

Hinson Super Cars - Bumpsteer Kit



"Adjustable height tie rod end replacement used to compensate for the changes in the mounting height location of the steering rack. This new version comes with a safety wire hole drilled below the installed nylock nut.


*NEW* - We have built custom one piece rod ends that eliminated the welded sleeve we previously used. These rod ends are available separately for replacements or upgrades for existing customers.


Kit will work on '93 model 16" wheels. You may have interference problems on '94 & newer 16" wheels. No clearance issues on 17" or greater size wheels.



These kits are typically in stock. Please allow 1-3 days for shipping after your order has been placed."

Price: $140


Sounds good to me. I think I'm going to give this a shot.

CKxx

iTrader: (2)

That is only going to correct for "just slightly less" rack drop than the length of the kit itself. That particular kit (I've learned from research) maxes out at around 7/8" of correction at the rod end. This means that it can correct for "just slightly less" than 7/8" lowered steering rack.

It will get you closer to your goal, but will still not correct for a rack lowered enough for the motor to clear a stock hood, which is roughly 2".

Also, look into the cost of a Cobra rear kit before you buy a KAAZ setup. I don't know the KAAZ price (quick search yielded ~$1100), but I've got ~$2000 into my Samberg 8.8 IRS rear (including new gears, carbon clutches, and all new bearings and seals) and it should be, by most accounts, nearly bullet-proof. If it does break, any Ford mechanic in the county can replace the parts with one of about 9-billion cheap aftermarket Ford parts.

YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (19)

Thank you for the tip on the Cobra rear, I'll look into that for sure.

Regarding the bumpsteer kit....

What would you recommend for my situation, if this Hinson kit isn't going to compensate for the 2" drop in my steering rack?

YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (19)

On a good note, I spoke to the shop yesterday and here's what's up.

Apparently my Turbonetics turbo exhaust housing's V-band lip is warped and essentially damaged beyond repair...so the shop tried to order a replacment housing. Turns out my turbo is an older model, and they don't carry the exhaust housings for it anymore...so now I have to replace the exhaust turbine wheel AND housing at the same time.

Sucks, but it should actually make the turbo more efficient since it's a newer design...maybe provide a faster spool time, I dunno.

Also, the shop had screwed up BIG time when they first ordered my super-custom over-priced wiring harness from Chase Bays.

APPARENTLY even though I specifically specified the motor was a 2JZ-GE out of a '90 SC300, he had told Chase Bays it was a 7M-GE or GTE...so basically there are a multitude of plugs that aren't matching up.

Chase Bays provided some wiring diagrams and the shop is going to piece together plugs off spare harnesses in order to get this bastard all plugged up.

We have to wait till the turbo stuff comes in, so that they can properly adjust the down-pipe and fabricate the intercooler piping.

After that, they need to re-weld the fittings onto the Ron Davis radiator I had custom-ordered.

We're gonna be going with some dual electric fans that come off a Porsche, supposedly. I was assured that they'll provide enough CFM's to cool the motor.

So yeah! Just waiting on the turbo stuff so that they can do all the piping fabrication, including custom power-steering lines. In the mean time, they're finally working on the wiring harness.

They think they can have the car at least pieced-together within the next month, but I'm not holding my breath. Stuff always comes up...

Either way, stay tuned.

This project is nearing completion!


:]

hyphyone510

iTrader: (8)

good luck with everything brotha

CKxx

iTrader: (2)

It was suggested by someone above that you could look into a Hinson inner tie-rod correction kit in addition to the outer kit you posted above. I don't know if there would be any issues using both at the same time. I'm not sure anyone has done it.

Here is a thread where I was asking a similar question: http://www.norotors.com/index.php?to...9167#msg159167

TurboGabe

Looking good man.

YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (19)

Still not having much luck on finding a suitable fix for my 2" steering rack drop for bumpsteer...I asked the shop to see what they could do/find.

It's taken forever and a day for my turbo to get re-balanced after having the new exhaust turbine & housing installed.

Supposedly it's coming in the mail TODAY.

Once they get the turbo back on, they can FINALLY finish fabricating all of the piping, plumbing, etc.

They've been working on the wiring on and off though, at least.

Hopefully by the end of next week I'll have some new pics showing a more-finished engine bay.

bewtew

iTrader: (7)

go the same route i did buy a megan kit and extend the stud as much as u need to correct the drop. look at the pic i posted on the previous page

mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

Those will work as well. They're just 3-4 times the price. Also I'd suggest getting a diff brace of done sort.

YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (19)

Aye.

I think I'll just do that...go with one of these pre-made kits and then just use a larger stud to compensate.

I guess what I am asking is...this custom setup you did, is it the same 2" length as what I'll need to do as well, or is it you just telling me the same methods that I'll need to do? I'm guessing #2?

I'm just trying to figure out exactly what info to give to my shop or whomever works on it, ya know?

You don't think my new diff-brace is enough? It was made with roll-cage bars for stiffness/rigidity..





Do you not think this will be enough of a brace? If you ask me, it looks more stout than most of the expensive "diff brace" kits I've seen where they use really skinny bars of metal.....

CKxx

iTrader: (2)

The weakest point on that thing will be that plate that connects the cross-bar tube to what is left of the factory power-plant frame. Just keep an eye on that and see if it starts bending.

Knockers

I would be worried about only using 4 bolts to hold it inplace plus the small welded area. Generally people do similat to what you have done in conjunction with the ppf. Those holes that those bolts are going into are not that strong. You need to strengthen that... I would bet you will break it.

As far as the bump steer issue. Messing up the steering rack geometry, which you just did by lowering it 2 inches, will cause uneven pavement to steer your car IE bumb steer. So when you hit a dip/bump the car is going to pull when it shouldn't, you just ruined one of the best things about these cars. That along with the extra weight( 300lbs from 13b to 2j ) of the engine and the fact that it is much further foward and higher is going to adversly effet the handling. Have you ever driven a stock suspension fox body mustang???? Some of us rotards understand this. Good luck with the build.

mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

You won't break that thing..its beefy as all hell. I'm just worried about the diff internals.. An OEM torsen unit won't last long at higher power levels.....unless you drive like a pansy ;-) haha

YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (19)

I've learned the hard way, having broken a stock diff previously while on my rotary setup, just how WEAK they are..

I won't be slamming it into gear any time soon.

The 2JZ is sitting as low and as far back as physically possible without cutting into the firewall.

Although lowering the steering rack 2" is a double-edged sword....it also provides at least SOMEWHAT of a more equal weight balance by the motor being lower and farther back.

I just need the appropriate parts to COMPENSATE now, to reduce/eliminate (hopefully) bumpsteer.

Whenever the stupid thing is running and as time/money permit, I'll look into weighing the car and see what kind of #'s I get, etc.

Out of all the 2JZ swapped FD's on the forum, I intend to stick with mine till the end...and provide as much feedback from my experiences as possible.

Stopped by the shop today, chewed out the shop owner some more....and I think/hope that by next Friday, I'll finally see enough progress done on the car to actually have something to smile about, for once....at least, this is what the shop owner has assured me.

We'll see. Y'all know how shops are. I'm just tired of being disappointed, especially after I've already paid $7,000 in cash up-front towards the work.