2JZ FD - I Just Couldn't Wait Any Lon ger! ^.^
11-08-16, 04:12 PM
#301
As long as you find electric fans that push the minimum CFM requirements for a 2JZ, then you should be fine. I would recommend proper ducting/shrouding to help channel air, though.
Nope, no rubbing!
I did briefly try some 19x9.5 +12 & 19x10.5 +12's with 245/35 and 275/35 tires. Those stuck out ALOT as you can imagine and the fronts DID scrub. Could not drive on them. I traded those locally for the current wheels. See below:
Interestingly enough, though...the alignment did identify that my front caster was way off, which may explain why they wouldn't fit. Oh well, too late now though.. Regardless, the aggressive offsets and rim/tire sizes would have required me to install my widebody fenders, so I think it worked out better this way.
Whoa, you definitely need tie-rod spacers. Limited-travel suspensions systems(like lowered coilovers) aren't going to display a lot of wild bump steer symptoms in normal driving.
Is there any lateral rack movement? It should be pretty straightforward to determine some static drop and get the correct tie rod end solution.
Everything else looks great!
Is there any lateral rack movement? It should be pretty straightforward to determine some static drop and get the correct tie rod end solution.
Everything else looks great!
Last edited by YoshiFD3S; 11-08-16 at 04:15 PM.
11-15-16, 04:11 PM
#302
Updates - 16NOV2016
My brother's been working full-stop on identifying and finishing up wiring bits. I can't thank him enough for his efforts.
1. Dakota Speedo is wired in, just needs to be calibrated with iPhone Speedo app.
2. Was able to get the tachometer to work without using the Dakota Tach box. Just had to configure the AEM software as a 4-cylinder engine.
3. Had to ground out the low coolant buzzer so it doesn't drive me crazy.
4. Added a better ground to the cluster and now the odometer displays 150k miles. WOOT! I thought my gauge cluster had the same blown capacitor issues that a lot of guys have where the odo goes blank.
5. Resolved a small coolant leak coming from a threaded fitting that was welded into the radiator. May explain some intermittent overheating issues. Going to install a nipple there to try and wire up Defi coolant gauge. AEM software is already reading off the factory 2JZ coolant temp sensor.
6. Bought a couple "new" interior plastic bits from Mazmart.
Items remaining:
A. Wire in the Defi & OEM coolant gauges.
B. Wire in the AEM to control the fuel pump relay.
C. Wire in the AEM to control the electric fan relay.
D. Connect the AEM boost solenoid hoses to the waste gate.
E. Gonna keep an eye on engine temps. May need to get someone who can weld to fix my radiator --> engine coolant pipe and add an air bleeder into it. Bad design causing lots of air bubbles and occasional overheating-type issues.
F. Re-fab my custom tranny brace to allow for a factory rubber transmission mount.
G. Once that is done, we need to replace the transmission tail shaft seal because it is leaking transmission fluid slowly. Too much vibration from the solid tranny mount. Also gonna flush tranny fluid and go with a thinner fluid.
H. Need new shifter boot rubber assembly to keep the hot air from inside the car.
I. Still trying to arrange dyno tuning session ASAP.
So yeah! My brother is a CHAMPION and just cranking away at the car!
Stand by for more good news and updates!
My brother's been working full-stop on identifying and finishing up wiring bits. I can't thank him enough for his efforts.
1. Dakota Speedo is wired in, just needs to be calibrated with iPhone Speedo app.
2. Was able to get the tachometer to work without using the Dakota Tach box. Just had to configure the AEM software as a 4-cylinder engine.
3. Had to ground out the low coolant buzzer so it doesn't drive me crazy.
4. Added a better ground to the cluster and now the odometer displays 150k miles. WOOT! I thought my gauge cluster had the same blown capacitor issues that a lot of guys have where the odo goes blank.
5. Resolved a small coolant leak coming from a threaded fitting that was welded into the radiator. May explain some intermittent overheating issues. Going to install a nipple there to try and wire up Defi coolant gauge. AEM software is already reading off the factory 2JZ coolant temp sensor.
6. Bought a couple "new" interior plastic bits from Mazmart.
Items remaining:
A. Wire in the Defi & OEM coolant gauges.
B. Wire in the AEM to control the fuel pump relay.
C. Wire in the AEM to control the electric fan relay.
D. Connect the AEM boost solenoid hoses to the waste gate.
E. Gonna keep an eye on engine temps. May need to get someone who can weld to fix my radiator --> engine coolant pipe and add an air bleeder into it. Bad design causing lots of air bubbles and occasional overheating-type issues.
F. Re-fab my custom tranny brace to allow for a factory rubber transmission mount.
G. Once that is done, we need to replace the transmission tail shaft seal because it is leaking transmission fluid slowly. Too much vibration from the solid tranny mount. Also gonna flush tranny fluid and go with a thinner fluid.
H. Need new shifter boot rubber assembly to keep the hot air from inside the car.
I. Still trying to arrange dyno tuning session ASAP.
So yeah! My brother is a CHAMPION and just cranking away at the car!
Stand by for more good news and updates!
Last edited by YoshiFD3S; 11-15-16 at 04:46 PM.
11-16-16, 05:03 PM
#303
Update: 17NOV2016
Video time!
Gauges working now.
Still running on wastegate ~10psi, waiting on tune.
You guys like my 15+ year old CD playing in the background? LOL.... skating rink memories.
Video time!
Gauges working now.
Still running on wastegate ~10psi, waiting on tune.
You guys like my 15+ year old CD playing in the background? LOL.... skating rink memories.
Last edited by YoshiFD3S; 11-16-16 at 05:07 PM.
11-22-16, 09:29 PM
#304
Dyno time!!!
Update: 23 NOV 2016
The tuner, James Emmino @ EBTEC. (E-BTEC: Automotive Repair & Customization (Atlanta, GA))
My brother's butt-dyno street tune made an impressive ~401rwhp/340tq @ only 7psi. Ignore the torque blip at the end.
Final tune made 530rhwp/434tq @ ~11psi.
STD Smoothing: 5...So for you SAE guys it's more like ~504rwhp/416tq final tune.
Video
They stopped at 11psi...though I know we're all curious just how much it would have made at like ~18psi. LOL... oh well. Maybe another time. ^.^;;
So, here we are! I've reached my ~500rwhp goal and WOW at such a low boost level and 550cc injectors!?! AEM Infinity FTW? Lastly, they set up a sick two/three-step setting for maximum flame-throwing action. LOL xD
More Updates:
1.) Swapped the 255/35 tires for 275/35. They aren't very good tires but that's okay. These are just temporary wheels. Thinking something like 295/30 R888's long-term. Re-balanced all wheels. Huge improvement in drive quality.
1.) My antique HKS BOV was starting to fail so I got a new HKS SQV4.
2.) Needed a new clock spring to get horn working. Got that. Installing shortly.
3.) Walboro 255lph is old and acting questionably, so replacing it with the newer Walboro 450lph in-tank model. Nothing too fancy.
4.) Defi gauges aren't working out the way I would have liked, so I just ordered two of AEM's newer customizable CANBUS X-Series gauges to act as multi-functional boost, temp, etc. AEM all the way!
5.) Rear-diff is still a bit stiff being solid-mounted and all, so I'm looking for a spare PPF to hack up and try to retain some of the rubber mounts to absorb vibration. Alternatively, I may just go ahead with the common Ford 8.8 upgrade from Ronin instead.
6.) Flushed tranny with Redline MT-90...brother thinks some Royal Purple OEM-rated SAE-75W-90 would have been better, so gonna do that tomorrow.
7.) Had my transmission brace re-done, combining the OEM R154 rubber mounts to absorb vibration. YUUUUUUGE difference in drivability.
8.) Going to re-balance my drive-shaft and replace tail-shaft seal (again) in hopes that it stops leaking. Feeling some road vibration at higher speeds.
9. Re-charged the A/C...blows ice cold. Heat doesn't seem to great, though. my brother thinks there's still an air bubble issue with the radiator pipe. Coolant temps were ~190ish while driving though, which is a big improvement after replacing coolant temp sensor. Considering installing either installing some kind of bleeder-valve or possibly just re-fabbing it completely. Having to re-do someone else's short-cut fab work sucks.
I think that's it for now!!
Still looking forward to my visit to GA around Christmas. Will install Scoot hood and Shine spoiler then.
Stay tuned for more updates!!
DYNO TUNING TIME!!!!
The tuner, James Emmino @ EBTEC. (E-BTEC: Automotive Repair & Customization (Atlanta, GA))
My brother's butt-dyno street tune made an impressive ~401rwhp/340tq @ only 7psi. Ignore the torque blip at the end.
Final tune made 530rhwp/434tq @ ~11psi.
STD Smoothing: 5...So for you SAE guys it's more like ~504rwhp/416tq final tune.
Video
Facebook Post
They stopped at 11psi...though I know we're all curious just how much it would have made at like ~18psi. LOL... oh well. Maybe another time. ^.^;;
So, here we are! I've reached my ~500rwhp goal and WOW at such a low boost level and 550cc injectors!?! AEM Infinity FTW? Lastly, they set up a sick two/three-step setting for maximum flame-throwing action. LOL xD
More Updates:
1.) Swapped the 255/35 tires for 275/35. They aren't very good tires but that's okay. These are just temporary wheels. Thinking something like 295/30 R888's long-term. Re-balanced all wheels. Huge improvement in drive quality.
1.) My antique HKS BOV was starting to fail so I got a new HKS SQV4.
2.) Needed a new clock spring to get horn working. Got that. Installing shortly.
3.) Walboro 255lph is old and acting questionably, so replacing it with the newer Walboro 450lph in-tank model. Nothing too fancy.
4.) Defi gauges aren't working out the way I would have liked, so I just ordered two of AEM's newer customizable CANBUS X-Series gauges to act as multi-functional boost, temp, etc. AEM all the way!
5.) Rear-diff is still a bit stiff being solid-mounted and all, so I'm looking for a spare PPF to hack up and try to retain some of the rubber mounts to absorb vibration. Alternatively, I may just go ahead with the common Ford 8.8 upgrade from Ronin instead.
6.) Flushed tranny with Redline MT-90...brother thinks some Royal Purple OEM-rated SAE-75W-90 would have been better, so gonna do that tomorrow.
7.) Had my transmission brace re-done, combining the OEM R154 rubber mounts to absorb vibration. YUUUUUUGE difference in drivability.
Before
After
8.) Going to re-balance my drive-shaft and replace tail-shaft seal (again) in hopes that it stops leaking. Feeling some road vibration at higher speeds.
9. Re-charged the A/C...blows ice cold. Heat doesn't seem to great, though. my brother thinks there's still an air bubble issue with the radiator pipe. Coolant temps were ~190ish while driving though, which is a big improvement after replacing coolant temp sensor. Considering installing either installing some kind of bleeder-valve or possibly just re-fabbing it completely. Having to re-do someone else's short-cut fab work sucks.
I think that's it for now!!
Still looking forward to my visit to GA around Christmas. Will install Scoot hood and Shine spoiler then.
Stay tuned for more updates!!
Last edited by YoshiFD3S; 11-23-16 at 01:04 AM.
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