2JZ FD - I Just Couldn't Wait Any Lon ger! ^.^
10-02-10, 08:03 AM
#1
2JZ FD - I Just Couldn't Wait Any Lon ger! ^.^
Allright guys, although I'm just a few weeks away, I couldn't wait any longer!
For those who don't know me, my name's Mike. I'm active-duty Navy, stationed in San Diego, California.
My 1994 RX-7 2JZ NA-T swap is actually almost complete, with an ETA of October 22nd.
My Story:
After blowing a 13B-RE engine on the dyno before I even got the drive my FD for the first time, and then blowing a 13B-REW a year later after making ~400rwhp @ 15psi...I needed a change.
I got scammed out of $500 when trying to purchase a pre-built, street-ported engine...and then that's when my brother came to me with a proposition..
A high-mileage 2JZ-GE out of a 1990's SC300....and go NA-T. I got the motor for dirt cheap because it needed some work. My brother being the master mechanic he is, tore the motor down to the bare bones and replaced everything.
In all reality, I haven't really spent THAT much money on replacement parts and additional modifications. Maybe $2,000 or so total.
The labor for everything, including a modification to my current hood to allow for fitment is costing me only $1,500 total. That's what happens when your brother is a renowned mechanic, and is best friends with one of the best metal-fabricators in town.
I feel like at least now I can have the best of both worlds, though! A sleek light-weight RX-7 body, with an inline 6 that actually produces torque. I'm REALLY excited about it! I go home on Leave in like 2 weeks for my sister's wedding, and I'm hoping to have purchased the last few loose ends I need (S-AFC II & injectors) to have it running before I leave!
I'm also just waiting on the metal-worker to finish fabricating my intake manifold, intercooler piping, down-pipe, and a diff-brace. Subframe, tranny mounts, etc. are all complete. Oh, and my brother still has to do wiring. He is a very experienced thuough, so I'm not too terribly concerned.
Pics!
HKS 2mm Steel Head-Gasket
HKS Timing Belt
Stupid distributor...
Retro-fit before subframe completion, etc.
Most recent pic:
My Plans
My goal is to make 400-450rwhp reliably on 90-octane fuel here in San Diego.
After the car itself is up and running with all the bugs worked out, my next plan is to go cosmetics.
I already own the Shine Auto "Burnout" wide-body front and rear fender flares, and a VIS Racing '99 OEM replica carbon-fiber spoiler. I'd also like to purchase the Shine Auto "Street" rear-diffuser kit.
At some point, I also intend to go with an 18X9 and 18X10 rim setup, with the offset being flush with the widebody fenders. I am still in the market for rims...not sure what style I want to go with...Suggestions appreciated.
Random!
Lastly, here is my newly-finished Tamiya TT01-D electric R/C car that I just built, with working LED headlights and tail-lights...obviously modeled after my own car. lol ^.^
And In Conclusion...
I'm really hoping to meet some other car enthusiastics here in the San Diego area once I get my FD up here..
In the past year, I've only seen maybe 3 Skylines, 4-5 other 3rd gen RX-7's, like 2 Supra's, and that's about it...Where does everybody hide???
I need to make new car enthusiast friends! Who wants to hang out?? lol
I will most likely post more detailed information regarding the subframe, motor/tranny mounts, and fitment in the future....for all those interested in pursuing this swap themselves.
- Mike
For those who don't know me, my name's Mike. I'm active-duty Navy, stationed in San Diego, California.
My 1994 RX-7 2JZ NA-T swap is actually almost complete, with an ETA of October 22nd.
My Story:
After blowing a 13B-RE engine on the dyno before I even got the drive my FD for the first time, and then blowing a 13B-REW a year later after making ~400rwhp @ 15psi...I needed a change.
I got scammed out of $500 when trying to purchase a pre-built, street-ported engine...and then that's when my brother came to me with a proposition..
A high-mileage 2JZ-GE out of a 1990's SC300....and go NA-T. I got the motor for dirt cheap because it needed some work. My brother being the master mechanic he is, tore the motor down to the bare bones and replaced everything.
In all reality, I haven't really spent THAT much money on replacement parts and additional modifications. Maybe $2,000 or so total.
The labor for everything, including a modification to my current hood to allow for fitment is costing me only $1,500 total. That's what happens when your brother is a renowned mechanic, and is best friends with one of the best metal-fabricators in town.
I feel like at least now I can have the best of both worlds, though! A sleek light-weight RX-7 body, with an inline 6 that actually produces torque. I'm REALLY excited about it! I go home on Leave in like 2 weeks for my sister's wedding, and I'm hoping to have purchased the last few loose ends I need (S-AFC II & injectors) to have it running before I leave!
I'm also just waiting on the metal-worker to finish fabricating my intake manifold, intercooler piping, down-pipe, and a diff-brace. Subframe, tranny mounts, etc. are all complete. Oh, and my brother still has to do wiring. He is a very experienced thuough, so I'm not too terribly concerned.
Pics!
HKS 2mm Steel Head-Gasket
HKS Timing Belt
Stupid distributor...
Retro-fit before subframe completion, etc.
Most recent pic:
My Plans
My goal is to make 400-450rwhp reliably on 90-octane fuel here in San Diego.
After the car itself is up and running with all the bugs worked out, my next plan is to go cosmetics.
I already own the Shine Auto "Burnout" wide-body front and rear fender flares, and a VIS Racing '99 OEM replica carbon-fiber spoiler. I'd also like to purchase the Shine Auto "Street" rear-diffuser kit.
At some point, I also intend to go with an 18X9 and 18X10 rim setup, with the offset being flush with the widebody fenders. I am still in the market for rims...not sure what style I want to go with...Suggestions appreciated.
Random!
Lastly, here is my newly-finished Tamiya TT01-D electric R/C car that I just built, with working LED headlights and tail-lights...obviously modeled after my own car. lol ^.^
And In Conclusion...
I'm really hoping to meet some other car enthusiastics here in the San Diego area once I get my FD up here..
In the past year, I've only seen maybe 3 Skylines, 4-5 other 3rd gen RX-7's, like 2 Supra's, and that's about it...Where does everybody hide???
I need to make new car enthusiast friends! Who wants to hang out?? lol
I will most likely post more detailed information regarding the subframe, motor/tranny mounts, and fitment in the future....for all those interested in pursuing this swap themselves.
- Mike
10-06-10, 12:13 PM
#2
Are you able to retain your factory (or in your case *that* )hood? Thats always been my biggest problem with the 2jz swaps, having to use that ugly bulging hood so that it clears the front of the timing cover. I dont care if the swap cost me $50 and made a millio HP, jI just cant stand that kind of hood modification. What subframe did you use?
10-06-10, 04:10 PM
#3
Are you able to retain your factory (or in your case *that* )hood? Thats always been my biggest problem with the 2jz swaps, having to use that ugly bulging hood so that it clears the front of the timing cover. I dont care if the swap cost me $50 and made a millio HP, jI just cant stand that kind of hood modification. What subframe did you use?
I can use a stock hood if I wanted to.
The only reason my current hood even has to be modified is because the vents go downward, REDUCING clearance.
Let me talk to my metal fab guy and see what components if any suspension components had to be altered or re-located during the process.
I can post some more pics too later today of the motor/tranny mounts, etc.
10-06-10, 04:52 PM
#4
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Nice project! I don't think I've seen any 2JZ NA-T FDs. What turbo are you running? Any plans to combat bumpsteer? I imagine your steering rack has been substantially lowered to clear that hood.
10-06-10, 06:18 PM
#6
I don't have any bump-steer issues. IIRC, the last time I spoke with my metal fab guy on the phone (he's hard to get a hold of), I BELIEVE he said he lowered the steering rack as low as possible (1-2 inches maybe?) but not enough to have to cause any actual drastic changes to the suspension setup. I'll post more info on this subject when he tells me more, or after I see the car in < 2 weeks.
Some more pics of the work:
Kyle (metal fabricator) told me today through some texts that he should have the flange for the intake manifold back from the CNC shop tomorrow so he can weld that into place.
The intercooler piping, down-pipe, and rear-differential brace that he's making me should be getting worked on this weekend too. Those are the last remaining metal fab items left.
He said he'd send me some pics of his progress some time this weekend. ^.^
Oh, and my 550cc injectors and S-AFC Neo should be arriving in Georgia any day now too. Woot!
Hopefully those are the last actual parts I'll need.... *crosses fingers*
:P
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10-06-10, 06:49 PM
#8
Basically he fabricated a whole tubular rear section of my subframe, then lowered the steering rack. He adjusted the steering arms, but no actual suspension geometry was changed. That's why he rebuilt a tubular cradle for the entire motor.
I'd LIKE to make 400-450rwhp @ 15psi on 90-octane if that's possible. That's my goal at least.
I'm still not sure what kind of boost I'll even be able to safely run on 90-octane...still gotta do that research.
>_>;;;
10-08-10, 04:13 AM
#11
No worries. I'll post lots of pics and videos from my visit home. ^.^
10-14-10, 12:50 AM
#14
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LOVE when someone bastardizes a rare white or yellow FD... 
I'm sure someone will ask, but i'd like to see ground clearance once you get it at ride-height. I LOVE the idea of a stock hood, but the 2JZ is long/tall.
I'm sure someone will ask, but i'd like to see ground clearance once you get it at ride-height. I LOVE the idea of a stock hood, but the 2JZ is long/tall.
10-19-10, 03:42 PM
#15
Eh...everybody's a critic.
I love rotary, don't get me wrong...but I also love the sound of an inline 6 that still runs after 2 years of ~400+rwhp, and gets better than ~200 miles a tank...unlike my experience with rotary for the past 5 years...
No worries, I'm here in Georgia now. About to leave to see the car for the first time actually...it's really dirty, but I'm still gonna be taking tons of pictures.
10-20-10, 10:49 PM
#16
First real day working on the swap. A LOT of work remains, but the hardest parts are really done. It's all just a bunch of cutting, re-welding, re-plumbing everything, etc.
- Still have the wiring harness to do as well. Yup yup, lots left to do! :]
- It ended up being easier to have a local driveshaft shop just order the yokes that they need, and they're just gonna fabricate me a driveshaft that is the right length, etc. ~$300
- Lets see....ABS has also been removed...and we were actually able to modify the FD's clutch slave cylinder to bolt up to the 1JZ Bellhousing, which was a money-saver. :]
- Shifter-extension and exhaust mid-piping to be worked on tomorrow, as well as intercooler piping.
- Still having issues with the distributor being somewhat obtrusive with the turbo, but a 4" 45-degree elbow should clear that up. Gonna have to run a screen on the turbo temporarily though.
Here's what we started today with today:
Intake Manifold flange complete.
Inside of the Intake Manifold:
From the ground, in front of the car. I don't see any ground-clearance issues, do you? :]
Custom-made rear-differential brace. A portion of the Power Plant Frame was used, if you can recognize it. No more "thunking" differential for me. Woot! :]
Modified NA-T turbo manifold. The waste-gate piping was shorted significantly, the turbo flange itself was clocked to the side for fitment reasons, and an additional 1/2" spacer was welded as well for fitment reasons.
Some shots of the motor subframe:
There are literally a TON of details that have to be worked out, including the shifter-extension. But my brother and Kyle the metal-fabricator/welder are up to the challenge.
Time is the only real constraint...Got a lot of stuff going on during this visit at home.
More to come, wish us luck!
:]
- Still have the wiring harness to do as well. Yup yup, lots left to do! :]
- It ended up being easier to have a local driveshaft shop just order the yokes that they need, and they're just gonna fabricate me a driveshaft that is the right length, etc. ~$300
- Lets see....ABS has also been removed...and we were actually able to modify the FD's clutch slave cylinder to bolt up to the 1JZ Bellhousing, which was a money-saver. :]
- Shifter-extension and exhaust mid-piping to be worked on tomorrow, as well as intercooler piping.
- Still having issues with the distributor being somewhat obtrusive with the turbo, but a 4" 45-degree elbow should clear that up. Gonna have to run a screen on the turbo temporarily though.
Here's what we started today with today:
Intake Manifold flange complete.
Inside of the Intake Manifold:
From the ground, in front of the car. I don't see any ground-clearance issues, do you? :]
Custom-made rear-differential brace. A portion of the Power Plant Frame was used, if you can recognize it. No more "thunking" differential for me. Woot! :]
Modified NA-T turbo manifold. The waste-gate piping was shorted significantly, the turbo flange itself was clocked to the side for fitment reasons, and an additional 1/2" spacer was welded as well for fitment reasons.
Some shots of the motor subframe:
There are literally a TON of details that have to be worked out, including the shifter-extension. But my brother and Kyle the metal-fabricator/welder are up to the challenge.
Time is the only real constraint...Got a lot of stuff going on during this visit at home.
More to come, wish us luck!
:]
10-23-10, 12:27 AM
#18
More updates!
Got my driveshaft yesterday. 43.5" Perfect fit!
Transmission shifter-extension complete!
My friend Evan and I wiped down my engine bay. It was FILTHY! Could still use an eventual paint job, but it's leaps and bounds cleaner now. I'm content.
Bad pic, sorry..but here's the now CLEAN engine bay. :P
My brother David started the wiring harness today. About another day or two of work, and it should be complete with working gauges, etc.
Wiped down the motor. Bolted up the turbo and manifold. Finished about 90% of all oil, fuel, and coolant plumbing today. Waiting on Kyle to re-angle the coolant filler necks, and weld the oil drain fitting into the oil pan that connects to the turbo. Motor is comin' together though!!
And the MVP for the day is.....
So after today, here's some remaining items...
- Re-angle coolant filler necks on the motor.
- Create block-off plate or weld-shut EGR port behind cylinder 6
- Turn fuel rail into "free-flowing" fuel rail, with nipple fittings on each end.
- Touch-up cutting & welding needed on the subframe and transmission mounts.
- Find out what happened to my apparently mis-located SC300 power steering pump. LOL...
- Create serpentine belt configuration setup
- Intercooler & Exhaust piping
Those are some of the last remaining big-ticket items...We're taking a break from the car for the weekend. Family is in town for my sister's wedding on Sunday (hooray!).
Kyle says he'll be slaving over the FD this weekend to try and finish up all his metal-work. If he follows through, my brother and I think we could have everything installed and ready for a start-up by Tuesday most likely.
Till then gentlemen!
Got my driveshaft yesterday. 43.5" Perfect fit!
Transmission shifter-extension complete!
My friend Evan and I wiped down my engine bay. It was FILTHY! Could still use an eventual paint job, but it's leaps and bounds cleaner now. I'm content.
Bad pic, sorry..but here's the now CLEAN engine bay. :P
My brother David started the wiring harness today. About another day or two of work, and it should be complete with working gauges, etc.
Wiped down the motor. Bolted up the turbo and manifold. Finished about 90% of all oil, fuel, and coolant plumbing today. Waiting on Kyle to re-angle the coolant filler necks, and weld the oil drain fitting into the oil pan that connects to the turbo. Motor is comin' together though!!
And the MVP for the day is.....
So after today, here's some remaining items...
- Re-angle coolant filler necks on the motor.
- Create block-off plate or weld-shut EGR port behind cylinder 6
- Turn fuel rail into "free-flowing" fuel rail, with nipple fittings on each end.
- Touch-up cutting & welding needed on the subframe and transmission mounts.
- Find out what happened to my apparently mis-located SC300 power steering pump. LOL...
- Create serpentine belt configuration setup
- Intercooler & Exhaust piping
Those are some of the last remaining big-ticket items...We're taking a break from the car for the weekend. Family is in town for my sister's wedding on Sunday (hooray!).
Kyle says he'll be slaving over the FD this weekend to try and finish up all his metal-work. If he follows through, my brother and I think we could have everything installed and ready for a start-up by Tuesday most likely.
Till then gentlemen!
10-23-10, 09:27 AM
#21
The metal fabricator Kyle is costing me about $2,000 total for all his time.
I gotta tell you though, you either A.) Should buy or copy a Tech 2 kit, or B.) You better be darn good friends with a welder/fabricator.
There is A LOT and I mean A LOT of custom brackets, plates, fittings, cutting/re-angling of piping connections etc that we have done so far. It is extremely time-consuming stuff.
We had spent almost a full day this week just going around to various Hydraulic Supply companies and Autozone-type shops for various fittings, connectors, plumbing, etc. I spent about $300 this week just on that kind of stuff. Still about another $100 worth of fluids and various parts that I still need too.
10-24-10, 09:39 PM
#24
Are you going to fabricate another piece for the transmission extension? (IE the aluminum top)
I'd debating whether or not it's worth the time to model one, then have the changes made in a new configuration for mass production.
Most people just buy them from Driftmotion or Tech2.
I'd debating whether or not it's worth the time to model one, then have the changes made in a new configuration for mass production.
Most people just buy them from Driftmotion or Tech2.
10-25-10, 01:15 AM
#25
Are you going to fabricate another piece for the transmission extension? (IE the aluminum top)
I'd debating whether or not it's worth the time to model one, then have the changes made in a new configuration for mass production.
Most people just buy them from Driftmotion or Tech2.
I'd debating whether or not it's worth the time to model one, then have the changes made in a new configuration for mass production.
Most people just buy them from Driftmotion or Tech2.
It doesn't sound like my metal fab guy had much trouble making the shifter extension. He's very experienced though. He just measured how far it would need to be extended, and went to town. I'll ask him for further details next time I talk to him though.