Video Log Of The Restomodding Of My '76 RX-5 Cosmo (New Vid Jan 5/2023)
08-25-14, 12:10 PM
#526
Oh, goodness. I'm watching part 36 as I type and as soon as you stuck that hose in the fuel tank I blurted out "Oh no, he's going to start that siphon with his mouth!" and sure enough you did. You're a braver (stupider?) man than I. 
As always, keep up the excellent work. I can only imagine all the planning that goes into not only these videos, but the car itself and how you must be carefully planning things before you start buying.
As always, keep up the excellent work. I can only imagine all the planning that goes into not only these videos, but the car itself and how you must be carefully planning things before you start buying.
Last edited by JerryLH3; 08-25-14 at 12:12 PM.
08-28-14, 09:59 AM
#527
The fuel pump should always be run from the EMS fuel pump trigger wire, never a toggle switch. The switch is deeply unsafe should you be in a collision.
You don't need the Y block if you run the fuel rails in series like Mazda did. The Y block is just for us who convert to a parallel rail system.
You don't need the Y block if you run the fuel rails in series like Mazda did. The Y block is just for us who convert to a parallel rail system.
Cool thanks man , if I run a toggle switch I'm adding a fuse to it to be safer so if any accidents ,hoping not it should pop if any short , well if I do it right lol .
Another question I see you ran aluminum fuel lines I am too , I'm doing 2 lines one for the return too , I'm ordering fitting today from Russell they have the compression fitting I like no flaring , but what I'm not sure about , do I put all male fitting on fuel line ? I don't want to order it wrong , thanks
08-30-14, 10:05 AM
#528
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As fuse won't help you in the event of a collision. Unless the fuse blows (unlikely unless there is damage to the wiring) then the pump will continue to run. Potentially while you are knocked out by your head hitting the steering wheel and an engine fire starts...which is now being fed by a high pressure fuel spray because the pump is running.
The EMS cuts the fuel pump trigger if the engine RPM drops to zero for this reason. Also it obviously cuts the pump when power is removed.
I actually ran 304 stainless steel lines which allowed me to TIG a set of -6 to 3/8" NPT adapters directly to the line. Had to go to the hydraulic store for those adapter and they were $20 each! As for the aluminium line, I didn't use it because I wanted the system to be reasonably compatible with E85. But if you are going to use aluminium line, the compression fittings with a male AN flare on them sold by Russel or whoever work just fine. At least aluminium line is damn easy to bend. That stainless line was brutal.
The EMS cuts the fuel pump trigger if the engine RPM drops to zero for this reason. Also it obviously cuts the pump when power is removed.
I actually ran 304 stainless steel lines which allowed me to TIG a set of -6 to 3/8" NPT adapters directly to the line. Had to go to the hydraulic store for those adapter and they were $20 each! As for the aluminium line, I didn't use it because I wanted the system to be reasonably compatible with E85. But if you are going to use aluminium line, the compression fittings with a male AN flare on them sold by Russel or whoever work just fine. At least aluminium line is damn easy to bend. That stainless line was brutal.
08-30-14, 10:54 AM
#529
As fuse won't help you in the event of a collision. Unless the fuse blows (unlikely unless there is damage to the wiring) then the pump will continue to run. Potentially while you are knocked out by your head hitting the steering wheel and an engine fire starts...which is now being fed by a high pressure fuel spray because the pump is running.
The EMS cuts the fuel pump trigger if the engine RPM drops to zero for this reason. Also it obviously cuts the pump when power is removed.
I actually ran 304 stainless steel lines which allowed me to TIG a set of -6 to 3/8" NPT adapters directly to the line. Had to go to the hydraulic store for those adapter and they were $20 each! As for the aluminium line, I didn't use it because I wanted the system to be reasonably compatible with E85. But if you are going to use aluminium line, the compression fittings with a male AN flare on them sold by Russel or whoever work just fine. At least aluminium line is damn easy to bend. That stainless line was brutal.
The EMS cuts the fuel pump trigger if the engine RPM drops to zero for this reason. Also it obviously cuts the pump when power is removed.
I actually ran 304 stainless steel lines which allowed me to TIG a set of -6 to 3/8" NPT adapters directly to the line. Had to go to the hydraulic store for those adapter and they were $20 each! As for the aluminium line, I didn't use it because I wanted the system to be reasonably compatible with E85. But if you are going to use aluminium line, the compression fittings with a male AN flare on them sold by Russel or whoever work just fine. At least aluminium line is damn easy to bend. That stainless line was brutal.
Now since I didnt want to ask but I have to LOL
what is EMS where can I get it , MY son will be driving car too and he will race it with me so that picture you just put in my head is going to make me get it NOW 
Thanks
O and My car is Carb
08-31-14, 08:45 AM
#530
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Oh, you have a carburetor. I was assuming fuel injection in which case the EMS is the Engine Management System running the EFI. In the case of a carb, just make sure you have a rollover switch. Probably required by the race track. You can get one from another car or purchase a new one from Summit or other. These have a little ball bearing which drops off of a contact set if the car is upside down, killing power to the fuel pump. Also called an "inertia switch".
09-01-14, 11:16 AM
#531
Oh, you have a carburetor. I was assuming fuel injection in which case the EMS is the Engine Management System running the EFI. In the case of a carb, just make sure you have a rollover switch. Probably required by the race track. You can get one from another car or purchase a new one from Summit or other. These have a little ball bearing which drops off of a contact set if the car is upside down, killing power to the fuel pump. Also called an "inertia switch".
09-18-14, 10:34 AM
#533
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Part 37: Carbureted Fuel Tank Conversion to In Tank EFI Pump
Part 37 of my '76 Mazda Cosmo restoration focuses on one specific task in great detail. That task is converting the old carburetor feeding fuel tank to one which can satisfy the high pressure needs of fuel injection. The approach I take is to modify the tank to accept an in tank fuel pump via custom bracket, emulating the approach used on modern vehicles. My inspiration for the setup was the Aeromotive Phantom EFI tank conversion kit. However as the Aeromotive unit wouldn't fit in the space I had available, I chose to fabricate my own version. Additionally, I continue the task of cleaning the fuel tank as well as finish off by wiring up the fuel pump.
09-22-14, 09:55 AM
#536
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Haha...well, I'm not sure I can help you there. Maybe watch while wearing sunglasses?
09-26-14, 01:11 PM
#538
Wow, you did a really great job there! It's a shame no one ever gets to see it! Well.. no one besides thousands of youtube viewers that is.
I converted a carb tank to efi once, but I half assed it by hanging an efi pump underneath the car. At idle the pump made more noise than the engine, it was awfull!
I converted a carb tank to efi once, but I half assed it by hanging an efi pump underneath the car. At idle the pump made more noise than the engine, it was awfull!
09-28-14, 10:26 AM
#540
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Wow, you did a really great job there! It's a shame no one ever gets to see it! Well.. no one besides thousands of youtube viewers that is.
I converted a carb tank to efi once, but I half assed it by hanging an efi pump underneath the car. At idle the pump made more noise than the engine, it was awfull!
I converted a carb tank to efi once, but I half assed it by hanging an efi pump underneath the car. At idle the pump made more noise than the engine, it was awfull!
The worst part is that I recently found my siphon with the little squeeze pump. Damn.
10-29-14, 10:45 AM
#541
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Part 38: Fuel Tank Restoration With POR-15 Sealing Kit
I guarantee that aside from part 38 of my '76 Cosmo Restoration, you will not find more footage on YouTube of someone shaking a fuel tank. You have my word that this is the most tank shaking coverage you will see in any video. Why so much tank agitation? Because in this episode I clean and seal the 40 year old fuel tank using the POR-15 fuel tank restoration kit. This is something which several have requested be shown so I figured as sealing was a common issue for old fuel tanks, why not dedicate an episode to the task. I begin by recycling some of the cleaning footage from the past two episodes then move right into the process of the POR-15 kit. First any remaining debris is "chained out" by using the old trick of rattling some chains around inside the tank. Then the tank is cleaned with the supplied cleaner, etched with MetalPrep and finally coated with the sealer. The end result is a tank looking better inside than the day it came the assembly line which will not be subject to future corrosion. To go with the spiffy clean interior, the outside is given a coat of POR-15 rust preventative paint as well.
And did I mention this is my first episode in HD?!
And did I mention this is my first episode in HD?!
10-30-14, 12:32 PM
#542
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Enjoyed the video. It really does help me understand how to prep for POR15.
In regard to the suspension, you mentioned planning to use air suspension on the car. The caveat is that there's no ready-made system for the car so you are fabricating. Are you sticking to the stock suspension geometry and pickup points or fabricating entirely from scratch?
In regard to the suspension, you mentioned planning to use air suspension on the car. The caveat is that there's no ready-made system for the car so you are fabricating. Are you sticking to the stock suspension geometry and pickup points or fabricating entirely from scratch?
11-01-14, 11:35 AM
#546
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Correct, as there are no air kits available for the Cosmo, it will be mostly DIY. For the sake of packaging and simplicity, most of the stock suspension geometry is being left alone. I don't want to give too much away for the next video but the front suspension is a combination currently of Cosmo, RX-7, and 626. I'm sure I'll be adding a few more cars in there once I figure out the steering rack and my air struts may be for a Honda (still having to figure that out...).
I am sincerely happy that I have satisfied your tank shanking requirements. It was, and remains to be, my pleasure.
In regard to the suspension, you mentioned planning to use air suspension on the car. The caveat is that there's no ready-made system for the car so you are fabricating. Are you sticking to the stock suspension geometry and pickup points or fabricating entirely from scratch?
I am sincerely happy that I have satisfied your tank shanking requirements. It was, and remains to be, my pleasure.
11-10-14, 02:23 PM
#549
Senior Member
I've not been on here for a long time but I still keep up with your work!
I got one in the garage waiting for my attention...
Someday... it will happen!
/ magnus
I got one in the garage waiting for my attention...
Someday... it will happen!
/ magnus
