Video Blog - 1974 1976 Mazda RX3 Restoration
#76
Full Member
Yeah I was wondering if you might also regret that finish or is it that your hi def camera picking up on shadow?
Perhaps use a 3m clean and strip disc then put a skim of putty or filler over it, then a hi build primer surfacer .. the eastwood one is very good then block it back.
Perhaps use a 3m clean and strip disc then put a skim of putty or filler over it, then a hi build primer surfacer .. the eastwood one is very good then block it back.
#79
Thanks Chino!
Project - This is great advice, thank you so much. As for the frame rail - its good enough for me and for what this rebuild is - and much better than it was. I hope I don't alienate anyone here but this learning experience is practice for something bigger. It's a Mazda RX3. I haven't picked my next car yet but it'll be something that carries heavier resale value than our beloved rotaries. So I have drawn the line much lower than many here may have. Along the way I discover methods, techniques, tolerances, etc from people like you and my YouTube subscribers. And I'm loving it all. I'm also very appreciative of the process you explained for restoring plastic. That's great guidance there man. THX.
jaja - Noted - yeah, that rail in your photos looks puss. When I get down to doing my own body work (perhaps next project) I'll be way more picky and thorough.
KC - um, no. And good call. I've been in touch with Lenny at powderbythepound.com and he explained the same thing to me some time ago. I had already coated the light and a couple other things to be seen soon in future vids. It's too late for those items. But I've got it now so I can clear coat all future projects. He also enlightened me on hitting things with a second coat - particularly when you eye areas with thin spots, or missed spots. Just keep timing in mind and reapply while still tacky. Not immediately out of the oven but long before cured.
Thanks for the input guys!!
Project - This is great advice, thank you so much. As for the frame rail - its good enough for me and for what this rebuild is - and much better than it was. I hope I don't alienate anyone here but this learning experience is practice for something bigger. It's a Mazda RX3. I haven't picked my next car yet but it'll be something that carries heavier resale value than our beloved rotaries. So I have drawn the line much lower than many here may have. Along the way I discover methods, techniques, tolerances, etc from people like you and my YouTube subscribers. And I'm loving it all. I'm also very appreciative of the process you explained for restoring plastic. That's great guidance there man. THX.
jaja - Noted - yeah, that rail in your photos looks puss. When I get down to doing my own body work (perhaps next project) I'll be way more picky and thorough.
KC - um, no. And good call. I've been in touch with Lenny at powderbythepound.com and he explained the same thing to me some time ago. I had already coated the light and a couple other things to be seen soon in future vids. It's too late for those items. But I've got it now so I can clear coat all future projects. He also enlightened me on hitting things with a second coat - particularly when you eye areas with thin spots, or missed spots. Just keep timing in mind and reapply while still tacky. Not immediately out of the oven but long before cured.
Thanks for the input guys!!
#80
Out In the Barn
iTrader: (9)
KC - um, no. And good call. I've been in touch with Lenny at powderbythepound.com and he explained the same thing to me some time ago. I had already coated the light and a couple other things to be seen soon in future vids. It's too late for those items. But I've got it now so I can clear coat all future projects. He also enlightened me on hitting things with a second coat - particularly when you eye areas with thin spots, or missed spots. Just keep timing in mind and reapply while still tacky. Not immediately out of the oven but long before cured.
#83
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
Great work, amber / clear, on my old 808 / rx3 i put the clear to the inside and the amber on the out side [ swap left to right and right to left ] not factory but i think it looks better to have the the flash of the turn signal as close to the edge.
I found your washer in queensland and its in the mail eventho im in victoria australia
ha ha.
you can try a socket and hammer insted of a drill to cut the bolt holes in the gasket paper.
keep up the good work
I found your washer in queensland and its in the mail eventho im in victoria australia
ha ha.
you can try a socket and hammer insted of a drill to cut the bolt holes in the gasket paper.
keep up the good work
#90
RCCAZ - I'm shooting for Labor Day weekend 2016 (that's 1st Monday of Sept in USA). I'm a bit behind on a lot of things so I've got to kick it up a notch if I'm to meet that goal.
Definitely take to 7Stock. I almost went this year as I have never been. I had the time off but opted to work on the car that weekend instead. Thanks for the kind words about the video. Much appreciated.
TypeRX - Thanks for watching. Another video coming very soon. Mostly done editing just gotta add my "question of the day" segment and a 1st ever "gift link" segment. Aside from that Rear Brakes coming soon.
Definitely take to 7Stock. I almost went this year as I have never been. I had the time off but opted to work on the car that weekend instead. Thanks for the kind words about the video. Much appreciated.
TypeRX - Thanks for watching. Another video coming very soon. Mostly done editing just gotta add my "question of the day" segment and a 1st ever "gift link" segment. Aside from that Rear Brakes coming soon.
#92
Great update man! Incredible attention to details...
Hahaha Jesus visit on the video lol
those vids need the tag as Motivational Restoring Videos
Keep the good progress up man!
Hahaha Jesus visit on the video lol
those vids need the tag as Motivational Restoring Videos
Keep the good progress up man!
#96
Senior Member
Woo more updates. I gave my coolant and washer bottles a wash by hand and then chucked them in the dishwasher which cleaned them up pretty well. Although mine aren't so brown! Could be worth a shot if you can get away with it!
#100
Regarding Rare Parts in Stockton, CA ...
I was expecting to pay $100 for the rebuild of the Pitman Arm. The guy called and said after inspection and testing the arm was tight with the socket looking like new. He recommended a new rubber, lubrication, and paint. For $30 it was mailed back looking like new.
In addition to rebuilding, if your parts are not rebuildable they can forge new parts (tie rods, idler or pitman, etc).
I was expecting to pay $100 for the rebuild of the Pitman Arm. The guy called and said after inspection and testing the arm was tight with the socket looking like new. He recommended a new rubber, lubrication, and paint. For $30 it was mailed back looking like new.
In addition to rebuilding, if your parts are not rebuildable they can forge new parts (tie rods, idler or pitman, etc).