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Tegheim - Home made 4 Rotor Wolvo project

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Old 01-04-11, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Gryffinwings
When will you be able to start putting the engine together?
Have no idea! There is many things that is out of my control, for example the grinding, harderning and polish. Then there is amount of money putting it together...

No rush
Old 01-04-11, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by tegheim
Have no idea! There is many things that is out of my control, for example the grinding, harderning and polish. Then there is amount of money putting it together...

No rush
So when you say the grinding, harderning and polish, are you referring to the e-shaft? If so how long will that take?
Old 01-05-11, 03:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Gryffinwings
So when you say the grinding, harderning and polish, are you referring to the e-shaft? If so how long will that take?
Yes, but I have no idea how much time they who will help me with those things will take to do it.
To bad I can't grind, hardening and polish myself
Old 01-05-11, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by tegheim
Thanks!





The holes aren't that big. Stock is 2.5mm, and I have 3.0mm in these.



And thats the whole point Scary otherwise

I correct myself! Of course the holes are too big.
Have made new jets today with 2.0mm holes. It's rather easy to make new if we come up with something else.

Thanks for your support!
Old 01-05-11, 11:52 AM
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2mm is better, the stock holes at 2.5mm are at full flow with the ball+spring still restricting the flow lower than the 2.5mm can provide so 2mm should be about right(if you're leaving the ball+spring out for the warmup operation that is. if you're going to install the ball+spring i would stick with the 2.5mm holes or maybe just slightly larger like 2.6-2.7mm for additional high RPM rotor oil cooling).

Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 01-05-11 at 11:57 AM.
Old 01-05-11, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Karack
2mm is better, the stock holes at 2.5mm are at full flow with the ball+spring still restricting the flow lower than the 2.5mm can provide so 2mm should be about right(if you're leaving the ball+spring out for the warmup operation that is. if you're going to install the ball+spring i would stick with the 2.5mm holes or maybe just slightly larger like 2.6-2.7mm for additional high RPM rotor oil cooling).
There will be no ball and spring :-)
Old 01-07-11, 07:43 PM
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This is awesome! keep it up
Old 01-12-11, 06:50 AM
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Wow I'm a machinist and welder and pipe fitter by trade.
I'd love I'd kill for these plans and every thing else I would need so I can hand it over to my buddy's coompany to do this for me. Like all the machine files and all the infor about getting stuff harden etc. My buddy work is so slow he's willing to do it dirt dirt cheap.

I ve been trying to find prices for short crank 4 rotor kits and all I could get a price for was that one place that made a kit for mad mike the drift guy roughly 9.5 k us $. That includes the irons shaft and gears all new from them.
Old 01-14-11, 12:09 PM
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Don't kill me before I have started it
We don't know if it works yet, and still, I don't know what to do with the blueprints afterwards... Feels sad to just give it away, but more sadly is that I can't fabricate more sets...
Old 01-14-11, 02:20 PM
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I don't have the tools to do spurgears really, but I wanna try, and it worked out pretty well

Old 01-14-11, 03:26 PM
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Old 01-14-11, 03:52 PM
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When it turned out pretty well, I thought, maybe I should simulate endbearing of the axle as well. Too bad I didn't do the spurgear so long that I could do the M27x1.5 thread also. That will be on the next test-piece

Old 01-14-11, 11:24 PM
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Man there is a lot of incredable work done here
Old 01-24-11, 11:53 AM
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Many things to fit...

Old 01-24-11, 12:59 PM
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So, are you planning to design and produce your own rotors as well, or is that just something you show in the image above for "design" purposes?
Old 01-24-11, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by RCCAZ 1
So, are you planning to design and produce your own rotors as well, or is that just something you show in the image above for "design" purposes?
Wanted to see if someone noticed...

Me and Gusfd3s here on the Rx7club are thinking about making our own billet rotors. But at first just for a prototype maybe...
Old 01-25-11, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by tegheim
Wanted to see if someone noticed...

Me and Gusfd3s here on the Rx7club are thinking about making our own billet rotors. But at first just for a prototype maybe...
I say you build the 4 rotor with regular rotors, get it running then rebuild it with the billet ones so you can show the differences
Old 01-25-11, 11:03 PM
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IL

I see that your tacking design ques from mazdatrix with the rotors.
Old 01-27-11, 08:54 AM
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Well if u can't keep doing the work your self and it works(does that make sense) like make kits. You could allways find a shop to build this stuff and if the price is right under sell every one else lol. You'd really be a middle man but u could make extra cash to pay for your other work.
The price there charge are nuts. The guys who made the red bull car sells there kit for roughly 9k us $. But they include new irons but I think they only use newer 13b irons so if u have older motors you cant use your housing cause of the water jackets(you know how they change them)
Jeff Bruce 4 rotor 12a or 13b is roughly 4-5$k but u send him ur parts.

The thing that sucks for me is I'm able to machine this stuff I just don't know how to designe it . Harding , specs for all that stuff. I thought about making billet rotors but I wouldn't know how to design them lol.

Good luck with all ur projects. it be sweet if it works out and u could start selling kits for less then what's out and still make a buck.
Old 01-27-11, 03:17 PM
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this is awesome...
Old 01-27-11, 05:12 PM
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i know you went back and redid the oil jets to 2 mm, but i just wanted to confirm for a fact that 3mm jets will cause a significant drop in oil pressure, because I made that mistake a few years ago. So you made the right decision.

You are making great progress and I love your work.
Old 01-28-11, 01:53 PM
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Tonight I have made me and fixture to help me with the 3 holes in each lobe on the main e-shaft.
This does so I don't need to pre-drill with big tool-holders as result.
Now I just "continue" drilling i these holes into the shaft. The 35mm will help me to steer to the right position.



Old 01-28-11, 09:36 PM
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Nice +1!
Old 01-30-11, 11:47 PM
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At last, the holes are done. Just som finish by hand left there so it looks better

Old 01-30-11, 11:55 PM
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I wish I would have gone into engineering...


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