RE-Furb.nl RX-4 project
04-08-14, 07:17 PM
#29
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Haha really? Always nice to hear dude!
but to be honest, I don't miss my FC, so I know I made the right choice
The FC shell has been sold again, and*the new owner is going to finish it. He's pretty excited, so it's coming back to life! But yeah, it will always be "Furb's old car" and will never be the same again
but to be honest, I don't miss my FC, so I know I made the right choice
The FC shell has been sold again, and*the new owner is going to finish it. He's pretty excited, so it's coming back to life! But yeah, it will always be "Furb's old car" and will never be the same again
06-09-14, 03:58 PM
#35
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went to visit the paintshop today to check on the progress
progress is slow due to other work, and also the epoxy coating has made it a bit difficult.
the previous owner had put on somekind of boat coating which is very hard and takes a lot more time to sand. also had troubles with the filler, reacting with the coating.
it took some time to find the right materials and mixtures to make it all stick and stay on like it should.
slow but steady we are getting there....
progress is slow due to other work, and also the epoxy coating has made it a bit difficult.
the previous owner had put on somekind of boat coating which is very hard and takes a lot more time to sand. also had troubles with the filler, reacting with the coating.
it took some time to find the right materials and mixtures to make it all stick and stay on like it should.
slow but steady we are getting there....
06-15-14, 02:25 PM
#37
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yeah, i know... but for me progress is slow
i've had so much more time in the past to work on my cars, work is just taking it all up at the moment.
but there is more progress
scored some NOS centercaps in Japan for my wheels
got some small amount of spare time that i spent on my dash unit.
i had done this before, but since i have a LHD car now, i had to do it all over.
but this time even a better version, because i kept the stock circuitboard intact so it will make it a lot easier to connect it to the stock wiring loom later on!
i've had so much more time in the past to work on my cars, work is just taking it all up at the moment.
but there is more progress
scored some NOS centercaps in Japan for my wheels
got some small amount of spare time that i spent on my dash unit.
i had done this before, but since i have a LHD car now, i had to do it all over.
but this time even a better version, because i kept the stock circuitboard intact so it will make it a lot easier to connect it to the stock wiring loom later on!
06-16-14, 10:10 AM
#39
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No pics, havent finished it yet. But it will all be wired onto the stock circuitboard, just like the stock gauges. That way i can use the stock loom and connectors.
any have to change maybe 2-3 wires because of the electronic speedo and some warning lights.
the warning lights are generic bulbs that i bought here
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninglights.php
09-27-14, 04:36 PM
#41
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finally some decent progress!
car is fully sanded and straight, ready for the basecoat!
meanwhile i've been busy preparing stuff
assembled the front struts with Tokico Blue shocks and T3 camberplates
car is fully sanded and straight, ready for the basecoat!
meanwhile i've been busy preparing stuff
assembled the front struts with Tokico Blue shocks and T3 camberplates
09-27-14, 04:37 PM
#42
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made a tophat to support the weight of the car instead of the spherical bearing of the camberplate
made some roll-center adjusters, to compensate for the lowering
prepping the engine! not rebuilt yet, engine is fine at the moment so that's less troubleshooting later on
mounted the MSD blaster coils for the direct fire system
https://wm6miw.by3302.livefilestore....333.jpg?psid=1
made some roll-center adjusters, to compensate for the lowering
prepping the engine! not rebuilt yet, engine is fine at the moment so that's less troubleshooting later on
mounted the MSD blaster coils for the direct fire system
https://wm6miw.by3302.livefilestore....333.jpg?psid=1
10-30-14, 08:30 PM
#43
Blaster setup.
How are you setting up your ignition?
I see your not using an electronic dizzy, are you feeding the center coil with the leading spark from the dizzy and triggering both leading coils from the input (output) terminals of the middle coil?
Is there any reason you went this way instead of using a 6al with an electronic dizzy? Or do you get the same result by doing it your way but without the additional 6al unit?
I see your not using an electronic dizzy, are you feeding the center coil with the leading spark from the dizzy and triggering both leading coils from the input (output) terminals of the middle coil?
Is there any reason you went this way instead of using a 6al with an electronic dizzy? Or do you get the same result by doing it your way but without the additional 6al unit?
made a tophat to support the weight of the car instead of the spherical bearing of the camberplate
made some roll-center adjusters, to compensate for the lowering
prepping the engine! not rebuilt yet, engine is fine at the moment so that's less troubleshooting later on
mounted the MSD blaster coils for the direct fire system
https://wm6miw.by3302.livefilestore....333.jpg?psid=1
made some roll-center adjusters, to compensate for the lowering
prepping the engine! not rebuilt yet, engine is fine at the moment so that's less troubleshooting later on
mounted the MSD blaster coils for the direct fire system
https://wm6miw.by3302.livefilestore....333.jpg?psid=1
10-31-14, 05:50 AM
#45
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Triggering is done with the electronic pickup inside, for both leading and trailing.
Leading works as direct fire
The traling is directed from the coil back to the distributor over the leading contacts, which provide double the amount of contacts then trailing.
Works the same as the MSD unit, just way cheaper
For more info on this setup just search for "DLIDIFS"
Leading works as direct fire
The traling is directed from the coil back to the distributor over the leading contacts, which provide double the amount of contacts then trailing.
Works the same as the MSD unit, just way cheaper
For more info on this setup just search for "DLIDIFS"
10-31-14, 05:51 AM
#46
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Some more prep-work
Modified the stock Speedo cable drive for an electronic pickup.
Calculated 2900 pulses per kilometer
Wired the entire gauges unit to work with the stock harness so it's plug and play!
Also modified the loom for extra sensors.
Even the illumination works with the stock dimmer switch.
Powered it up on a battery and calibrated the Speedo with my puls/km value.
Measured and drawn my own flanges for the intake manifold, cut on a waterjet.
Tip: drawn as a single flange and cutting them is cheaper
Started mockup and measurements for the intake manifold.
Intake runner length calculated according to port timing.
The only thing I had to guess was the angle of the engine in the car, I hope it's pretty close cause the runner lengths are spot on at the moment.
Modified the stock Speedo cable drive for an electronic pickup.
Calculated 2900 pulses per kilometer
Wired the entire gauges unit to work with the stock harness so it's plug and play!
Also modified the loom for extra sensors.
Even the illumination works with the stock dimmer switch.
Powered it up on a battery and calibrated the Speedo with my puls/km value.
Measured and drawn my own flanges for the intake manifold, cut on a waterjet.
Tip: drawn as a single flange and cutting them is cheaper
Started mockup and measurements for the intake manifold.
Intake runner length calculated according to port timing.
The only thing I had to guess was the angle of the engine in the car, I hope it's pretty close cause the runner lengths are spot on at the moment.
10-31-14, 06:28 PM
#47
The SSR wheels you're running, can you share what size and offset your running?
As far as the gauge cluster goes, was the wiring reasonably straight forward?
The magnetic pickup you're using for the Smiths gauge, is that what is supplied with the unit?
As far as the gauge cluster goes, was the wiring reasonably straight forward?
The magnetic pickup you're using for the Smiths gauge, is that what is supplied with the unit?
11-01-14, 02:46 AM
#48
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front is offset +5, rear -7
From the info I had gathered, the ideal offset would have been offset 0 in the rear. Because I had to modify the rear axle for discs anyway, I shortened it by 7mm on both sides so the wheels will actually fit without rolling arches.
The wiring isn't that big of an issue with the wiring diagram at hand.
Just take your time to find all the colours. Changing, removing and adding wires inside all the plugs was a bigger issue, I luckily found some tools for it.
The biggest job is fitting the actual gauges inside the unit. Almost nothing is left from the original housing, just the outside frame and some structural supports to keep it together
The pickup is indeed from Smith's, but any 12v proximity switch will work.
At work I only had 24v ones, so I had to order anyway, so I just ordered it all at once.
