My Project Impreza AWD Rotary
01-23-10, 11:36 AM
#26
Keep to the right.
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I have an extra FD water pump laying around so I measured from the mounting surface on the back side to the surface on the front side which the pulley mounts to. I got 2-9/16"
01-23-10, 02:36 PM
#27
The 2nd gen pump interferes with the electric fan mounts on the standard Subaru radiator and I don't know if this radiator will cool well enough for rallycross.
02-01-10, 10:45 AM
#29
I have the 12A attached to the trans with the mocked up adapter. With the 12A "properly" located the nose of the waterpump just interferes with the radiator fan shroud. With this shroud removed there is about 21/4" clearance to the radiator. Also it is likely the alternator will need to be mounted off to the side because it interferes with the hood. I'm going to stay with the 12A at this point mainly because I don't have a 13B together and ready to install. A 13B will fit lengthwise but a different radiator fan would be needed. I suspect a thicker radiator will be required sometime down the road to help with cooling.
Currently working on fabricating the front engine mounts.
Currently working on fabricating the front engine mounts.
02-04-10, 01:51 AM
#30
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this thread has my full attention,
cant wait to see how it turns out
I saw a AUDI Quatro with a s4 13b Turbo
he did it cause he wanted AWD with rotary power
hauled ***
keep up the work it looks awesome
cant wait to see how it turns out
I saw a AUDI Quatro with a s4 13b Turbo
he did it cause he wanted AWD with rotary power
hauled ***
keep up the work it looks awesome
02-05-10, 06:44 PM
#32
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I have the 12A attached to the trans with the mocked up adapter. With the 12A "properly" located the nose of the waterpump just interferes with the radiator fan shroud. With this shroud removed there is about 21/4" clearance to the radiator. Also it is likely the alternator will need to be mounted off to the side because it interferes with the hood. I'm going to stay with the 12A at this point mainly because I don't have a 13B together and ready to install. A 13B will fit lengthwise but a different radiator fan would be needed. I suspect a thicker radiator will be required sometime down the road to help with cooling.
Currently working on fabricating the front engine mounts.
Currently working on fabricating the front engine mounts.
and like you said you dont have a put together 13b.
Also are you are still going to turbo the 12A, or are you going to keep it N/A?
But the 12A is BP I have no clue if that would be enough gumption to pull a subbie as a N/A alone
but combined with turbo it will be a force to be reckoned with
keep posting this is so awesome
02-08-10, 11:14 AM
#33
WTB FC
http://www.prorallypix.com/RX-7/rx11.html
Rod Millen rx7 rally car i believe was 4wd.
Rod Millen rx7 rally car i believe was 4wd.
02-19-10, 10:54 AM
#34
Alucard454: yes definately going to do a turbo fuel injected 12A because I need a drivable 200-250hp.
diedxjustxyesterday: I seriously considered making my 1st and 2nd gen into AWD but the amount of engineering required was somewhat daunting to say the least. Even then not sure it would be very competitive.
The Impreza I bought was a 1998 with an automatic trans. This week I picked up a manual trans for it from a 2001 Subaru Forester. This has the 4.111 front differential that matches the rear diff ratio on the auto Impreza. 5 speed Imprezas normaly have 3.9:1 rear end while the autos have 4.111:1.
Things I have learnt since purchasing manual trans:
1) the subaru clutch disc is 8 7/8" diameter with a 24 spline hub. 13B uses same diameter (but 22 spline) so just need to run a subaru clutch disc with a 12A flywheel. Have a light aftermarket flywheel counterweight setup that should do the trick!
2) the trans input shaft extends about 1 1/8" out past the trans bell housing face. About an inch longer than the Mazda. This means when the eng/trans are put together the input shaft splines contact the end of the eccentric shaft when there is still 1 inch gap between the trans and the back of the 12A.
3) the Subaru trans input shaft pilot bearing ID is about 1/2" which is smaller than the Mazda
4) the Subaru "bell housing" is very shallow compared to the mazda. This means the bell housing will not accomodate the Mazda flywheel/clutch assembly if the engine is pushed all the way up to the trans. Fortunately an adapter plate of the appropriate thickness takes care of this.
So right now I need to decide how best to deal with the long input shaft and smaller pilot bearing. Having a 1 inch thick adapter plate would work but that is heavy and pushes the engine further forward and closer to the radiator. Material could be ground out of the inside of the eccentric shaft and off the input shaft splines to get more clearance. Also the input shaft could easily be shortened and at the same time made to accomodate the larger mazda input shaft pilot bearing, this could be the best option.
But first I need to ensure where the entire clutch release mechanism will work best in relation to the thickness of the engine to trans adapter plate. And ensure the shallow Subaru bell housing will accomodate the Mazda flywheel clutch assembly.
But otherwise it is going very well
diedxjustxyesterday: I seriously considered making my 1st and 2nd gen into AWD but the amount of engineering required was somewhat daunting to say the least. Even then not sure it would be very competitive.
The Impreza I bought was a 1998 with an automatic trans. This week I picked up a manual trans for it from a 2001 Subaru Forester. This has the 4.111 front differential that matches the rear diff ratio on the auto Impreza. 5 speed Imprezas normaly have 3.9:1 rear end while the autos have 4.111:1.
Things I have learnt since purchasing manual trans:
1) the subaru clutch disc is 8 7/8" diameter with a 24 spline hub. 13B uses same diameter (but 22 spline) so just need to run a subaru clutch disc with a 12A flywheel. Have a light aftermarket flywheel counterweight setup that should do the trick!
2) the trans input shaft extends about 1 1/8" out past the trans bell housing face. About an inch longer than the Mazda. This means when the eng/trans are put together the input shaft splines contact the end of the eccentric shaft when there is still 1 inch gap between the trans and the back of the 12A.
3) the Subaru trans input shaft pilot bearing ID is about 1/2" which is smaller than the Mazda
4) the Subaru "bell housing" is very shallow compared to the mazda. This means the bell housing will not accomodate the Mazda flywheel/clutch assembly if the engine is pushed all the way up to the trans. Fortunately an adapter plate of the appropriate thickness takes care of this.
So right now I need to decide how best to deal with the long input shaft and smaller pilot bearing. Having a 1 inch thick adapter plate would work but that is heavy and pushes the engine further forward and closer to the radiator. Material could be ground out of the inside of the eccentric shaft and off the input shaft splines to get more clearance. Also the input shaft could easily be shortened and at the same time made to accomodate the larger mazda input shaft pilot bearing, this could be the best option.
But first I need to ensure where the entire clutch release mechanism will work best in relation to the thickness of the engine to trans adapter plate. And ensure the shallow Subaru bell housing will accomodate the Mazda flywheel clutch assembly.
But otherwise it is going very well
02-27-10, 05:19 PM
#37
I got my hands on a very used subaru pressure plate and clutch plate. Interestingly the pressure plate hole pattern matches the mazda flywheel only difference is the dowel holes are smaller. I don't think the Subaru pp will work without modifications to the flywheel as the distance between the clutch face on the pp and pp bolt face is different to the mazda pp so clamping force may be too weak.
The pilot bearing needs to have an OD of 20mm and an ID of 12mm. There are needle rollers available that are 12mm x 19mm so maybe using .5mm shim stock could locate the bearing in the e-shaft.
"I hope this helps you with your build
http://cp_www.tripod.com/rotary/pg04.htm"
Thank you that LongsturboFB is interesting
The pilot bearing needs to have an OD of 20mm and an ID of 12mm. There are needle rollers available that are 12mm x 19mm so maybe using .5mm shim stock could locate the bearing in the e-shaft.
"I hope this helps you with your build
http://cp_www.tripod.com/rotary/pg04.htm"
Thank you that LongsturboFB is interesting
02-28-10, 08:57 AM
#38
Not saying the input shaft in not hardened but it shows engineering precedent to shim the ID rather than the OD. So you may want to look into going up to the 20MM OD x 14MM ID needle bearings and find or manufacture a 14MM OD x 12MM ID liner to press onto the input shaft.
Kick *** project by the way.
-billy
Last edited by bwaits; 02-28-10 at 09:00 AM.
03-12-10, 05:32 PM
#45
what tranny you are planning to use? if you going turbo you should consider a STI one it have a 3.90 final gear but the MY04-06 have short gears, wrx and n/a some have weak gears and some have weak input shaft. i see ppl blowing them left and right. other than that is a cool project. i would like to see it when finished
03-12-10, 05:55 PM
#46
Lives on the Forum
Awesome project Bruce! Can't wait to see this baby in person.
If you are short on clearance between the fan shroud and the nose of the water pump, maybe you could consider using 1st gen MR2 efans. This is a twin fan setup, and you can position it so that the nose of the water pump sits between the two fans.
Best of luck. I will be watching your progress.
.
If you are short on clearance between the fan shroud and the nose of the water pump, maybe you could consider using 1st gen MR2 efans. This is a twin fan setup, and you can position it so that the nose of the water pump sits between the two fans.
Best of luck. I will be watching your progress.
.
wow
03-14-10, 05:08 PM
#48
I have gotten the clutch pilot bearing sorted out. Used a 19mm OD needle roller bearing inside a sleeve with the correct ID for the subie trans. The input shaft which runs inside the needle roller, best I can tell is hardened. If I could have found a needle roller with the right size inner liner I would have used it over the shaft.
I'm doing a lot of measuring right now of the positions of the dowel pins on both the engine and transmission. Want to have the adapter plate done by the end of the month.
I'm doing a lot of measuring right now of the positions of the dowel pins on both the engine and transmission. Want to have the adapter plate done by the end of the month.
03-17-10, 01:28 PM
#49
its supposed to do that
I have one of the original Kennedy engineering adapter plate/flywheel setups to mate a rotary to a scoob transaxle. I picked it up planning a very similar project. I can take a few pics if you want to get an idea of how they engineered the mount plate and flywheel issues.
Isaac
Isaac
