Ash.B

I used the 1994 RX7 manual to wire the igniter up to the ECU and coil pack outputs/inputs so I hope I am right. All that is missing is a power wire from the igniter to the coil pack wire which will both join and run into the main relay power wire which is also used to power the ECU, any downfalls or negatives I should watch out for using this method? I cant imagine too much heat being generated through the wires to melt? Also will do the battery negative cable (fancy word for ground) that is the black module on the igniter with some nice 4 gauge wire to a good solid ground on the body. I will be grounding the engine block to the body as well with 4 gauge wire.

Started making my igniter pins from this:


Then broke it apart:


Removed pins:



Test fit into igniter:


Solder new wire onto existing pin wire and heat shrink to reduce any chance of touching between pins/ shorting:


And plug according to manual (I hope I got it right):


Labelled the coil looms just to ensure I remember them (Not professional, I will look for heat shrink labelled tape later down the line):

x-con

Very tidy man
i hope all goes well and fingers crossed you get the car back today

Ash.B

Thanks dude, same here. Even with a unreliable engineer that change prices on me twice from a $300 job to a $600 job and now resting at a pick up fee of $1000. Got to love people that rip you off.

Ash.B

Update time:

Went and had a look at the work done so far on the car and the mounts are looking very nice indeed and once painted should look close to factory (sorry no pictures). The motor is sitting in and level and he is working on the oil pan and extending the pick up to accommodate. We worked out the new sump will be close to 3L in capacity and while that is not enough with the room available its the most I can get. Plan is to fill the sump to a little past full and allow the oil cooler to fill, once thats done refill to correct level and check a few more times to ensure the level stays steady.

On another note, the car wont be coming home soon since I told him to do the exhaust as well seeing as he is increasing the price and taking longer with the work it makes sense to have him do all of it. I went with a 2.5" all the way from engine to tip so hopefully that wont kill too much flow. Once thats done its home to throw in the harness thats finished and fill it with oil/coolant

Capella

Good work on sticking with it. I personally think that the MX5 should have been delivered from the factory with a rotary Can't wait to see it up and running. I only wish the guidelines in NSW weren't so strict, i'd definitely have a rotor MX5 as a daily!

Ash.B

Update of a different kind:

Driving home from work and got stopped in the Supra. Cop asks if I was drinking I say no I just finished work. He says I was speeding (I was doing 66kmph in a 60kmph zone) and needs me to admit I was (I know I wasnt and he didnt have his speed camera on since my detector didnt pick it up). I said I was not speeding and will sign anything to say I wasnt so he starts calling me a liar and a stupid idiot that thinks hes tough...says he will get my car crushed and will be patrolling my street waiting for me should I ever do anything again. Then fines me $200 for a warrant of fitness out by 2 weeks (we get 6 months after our warrant expires to get a new one) and tells me to get in my car and **** off. Moral of the story you get jerk cops.

tinytyrant

iTrader: (3)

ah, seems you ran across taxus collectus coperinas. in season and feeling particularly aggressive.

Ash.B

lol pretty much. Got the MX5 back from the engineers so I will have a few updates tomorrow morning. Everything is looking amazing except for the exhaust which shakes a little if I wiggle it meaning it may shake while driving which will annoy me now I know it moves so I have to fix that.

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

to be honest i think cops in nz are way more aggressive than here in usa..

mean project good work.

Barronious1

Sweet project you've got going man! Really looking forward to seeing the video of it running. Have you got any plans to port it or just keeping it standard for now?

Ash.B

Thanks guys. Hoping to get it done soon as in the next few weeks since I want to use it to work and make sure its working properly. I am back at work now so finding time to get the clutch and seal the oil pan is a little hard but I will try tomorrow morning.

Barronious1 - It is street ported to my knowledge but because I am not the person that rebuilt it I am unsure just how large the ports are opened. I am keeping it street ported for sure since I am using it to work and it parks outside so in winter I need to to start fairly easily so no bridgeport for me.

Ash.B

Update time:

Its home, now just pull everything off and seal the oil pan, install clutch components and check for clearance on the fork vs transmission tunnel area and then just misc hoses and radiator left.


(Plenty of clearance)
(2.5" tip)
(Custom manifold)
(Custom oil pick up to work with the new sump)
(The main area, custom mounts made to retain the S7 mounting system)



I think I have accomplished most of the build well enough to say its done properly so as it stands I am quiet happy with the work.

tinytyrant

iTrader: (3)

close.

want to see it start and drive. i'm pumped! you pumped? everyone's pumped!

btw bridgies aren't necessarily hard to start, depends on jets, chokes etc. mine pops first go.

Ash.B

Hmm I wont mind a bridgeport then, seeing as I am converting the carb to a EFI system later down the line. I will see what happens once the motor starts and runs

Ash.B

Update time:

Got a little done before work, gearbox is out to fit starter motor and clutch fork. Will need to bash the transmission tunnel a bit to give clearance. Bolted the flywheel to the motor and will seal up the oil pan tomorrow morning as I will go buy the gasket sealant on my way to work today. Found the starter motor does not fit so waiting to see if the sender can send me the correct one.

*(Doesnt fit)
(Teeth face the wrong way)


(Exhaust system is pretty much a one piece unit lol)

(Waiting to get sealed up tomorrow)

Ash.B

Update time:

Day off work means sump RTV gasket goo was scraped off using plastic scraper, then scraped off the gasket RTV from the underside of the engine. Got new RTV gasket maker and applied liberally to the oil pan doing an inside and outside line of RTV and then closed all the bolt holes as well. I followed that up by applying some RTV on the bolts to ensure no leaks from those areas. I also sealed the oil sump pick up and bolted it down.

Got the flywheel on but not torqued since I am waiting for a air ratchet to tighten. Installed the pilot bearing and seal as well as packing the shaft with grease so thats done. Installed the clutch, release bearing and for on the bellhousing. Now just waiting on the starter that will fit my gearbox and will work on pushing the transmission tunnel in to allow the fork and slave cylinder to clear. That should be it and ready to start.

Ash.B

(Look a wild rotor Waaaaa -_-)
(All sealed and happy)

Wildman923

iTrader: (1)

Awesome build. Here's some more motivation

Ash.B

Man that is great, thank you for that.

Update time:

Everything has been fitted minus starter since thats still coming. Problem is the gearbox will not clear the transmission tunnel to fit over the flywheel And the fork and slave sit too high up as to rub on the tunnel wall. Will either cut the tunnel or see if it can be massaged out to shape.

Ash.B

Update time:

Engine and gearbox will not mate together to produce a functioning drive train so it is probably looking like the car will be sent to the engineers tomorrow hopefully and let him have his ways with the transmission tunnel. The dash is pulled so he can see the area to work with as I want to keep the air conditioning meaning the huge bulky unit behind the dash has to stay

Really sucks since I was looking forward to cranking it over and having a car again but no so its more money and time but the motivational videos I have been sent help Thank you Wildman923 for the video and links really helped alot.

Ash.B

Update time:

Found a store carrying everything I wanted to get to do my wiring properly. So I will be redoing the wiring from the ECU to the igniter and sensors as well as once tested I will tackle the main interior car loom and wiring around the car to redo it to my my standards. Found some of the following which I will be using

- heat shrink labels
- braided heat shrink
- braided expandable PPS wire protection
- braided self closing wire protection
- heat shrink with internal solder connectors
- deutsch connectors to replace most plugs and connections on the car

Ash.B

(This is the radio mess thats really annoying me so will be redone properly, done by previous owner)
(Painted the subframe)
(Will not clear so marked for cutting and welding)
(Cant wait to get it finished)

Wildman923

iTrader: (1)

One thing to keep in the back of your mind is fuel line routing. I found the stock routing to be way too close for comfort to the exhaust. I re-routing them on my build to kick up to the top of the trans tunnel around the middle of the transmission and enter the engine bay above the transmission.
Before sending it in to the Engineer you'll wanna pull the Blower, Evaporator, and Heater core. Will save time and money so the engineer will be able to reach both sides of the area that needs to be cut and welded. Bring the Heater core unit when you drop it off so they can ensure fitment after the tunnel has been adjusted.

Looking great so far!

Ash.B

Thank you very much for that Wildman92. Plan is leaving the hater core intact since I already informed him of this so that that way he has a clear view of the restrictions to the height of the new tunnel piece he can weld in so that it gives clearance and retains my heater core.

Regarding the fuel lines, I have noticed it is very close so currently while the budget is a bit tight I will be insulating it and the exhaust manifold to reduce temperatures and after that once I have more cash I will redo the lines to the other side of the engine bay all the way to the fuel tank.

Ash.B

Not much to do really so cleaned up he dash and plastics. I will be getting the impact bar behind the dash painted when the car gets sent for paint so thats why it is still rusty

From this:


To this:





(Really happy my upper vents that run across the dashboard are clean now, really bugged me how I wiped the dash but could never clean inside the actual ducting till now)



Car goes away tomorrow to hopefully get one last chop then its back and maybe off to paint or partial assembly, use the car for bit then send off to paint. Paint scheme will be black and orange