Kyle Wickings

So I never have had upgraded turbos before to deal with steel braided lines. So I have read up that restrictors are used in the feed, but I'm unsure if I need one and if so what size. It's a ebay jdmsport t3/t4. Also with my return line, could I just replace the circled portion and buy a flange to fit it to the rest? Running a 4an feed, and 10an return. The feed flange that bolts on the turbo I bought have a size 50 restrictor hole.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I hope you plan to use a new fuel setup and some way to control that too.
Just slapping on a turbo is basically Death for your engine without support.

Kyle Wickings

Just stock boost, to have more control of boost creep it has right now.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Stock boost?..how is that?
Your old turbo will compare nothing to the new one so your "stock boost" will have greater effect since the new turbo is pushing more air.
Stock boost on an Ht18-s and say, a T4 based turbo for example, is apples and oranges..Totally different output all together.
So it will need more fuel.The stock ecu can't control that so you need another ECU that will.

Sorry,No offense,but You need to research this upgrade before going any further.
As I said you can't just slap on a part and think it is OK.You need the supporting modifications to run safely or all that work will literally go up in smoke.

Kyle Wickings

It's on a 6lb wastegate spring, please elaborate on how this is going to make my work go up in smoke.

FCnut

Are you running a stock ECU?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Your "work" will go up in smoke when your Turbo Blows your engine.

Basically you are missing the point.
Wastegate Pressure has Nothing to do with it.That pressure is only controlling the Turbo..not the amount of AIR that the turbo is pushing Into your engine.

It's the FLOW of air that is Multiplied by the BIGGER Turbo.
Think of it this way: 6 Psi of water through a Straw(Stock turbo)..NOW 6 PSI through a Garden hose.(NEW turbo)

SO,More Air,..More Fuel needed,..More ECU needed to control Fuel as the Stock ECU is only capable of controlling the old injectors at a certain degree.

All these Factors Need to be taken into consideration.

OH!..by the way,you need a NEW Manifold to slap that Turbo ON, as the STOCK Manifold is Unique and it's flange will not fit ANY Aftermarket Turbo.
THEN you need to hook up the Exhaust to that Turbo,so there is more money to shell out..

Let's roughly estimate this and I'll do this with WILD numbers:
400 turbo
300 manifold
150 for the wastegate(unless your wastegate is ON the turbo)
250 to hook up the exhaust,weld job or new pipe with attachments..
500 Dollar Minimum for an ECU to control fuel.
300 bucks for used injectors.




It's starting to add up isn't it?
You say you have never Upgraded a turbo.I'm trying to give you a perspective of what it involves.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Any turbo with "T3" in the name is too small for a 13B anyway except under some very specific circumstances, so the point is moot.

About the only T3 turbine suitable would be of fairly large AR with a 1.06 (the largest T3 turbine housing I've seen) housing. Even that is going to start to be restrictive on the top end.

The stock HT-18 on the TII has roughly a .90 T4 sized turbine, if that gives you any idea.

Evil Aviator

Is this the turbo?

JDM SPORT T3/T4 A/R .63 BALL BEARING TURBOCHARGER
• 3" Compressor Inlet.
• 2" Compressor Outlet.
• Turbine A/R .63
• Compressor A/R .50
• Compressor Wheel Minor: 58MM
• Compressor Wheel Major: 76.15MM
• Turbine Diameter Minor: 61.9MM
• Turbine Diameter Major: 70.80MM
• Standard T3 5 Bolt Flange.

Kyle Wickings

Yes Evil that is it.

Evil Aviator

Oh boy, that's not good. It is designed for a Honda, so the A/R is too small for a rotary engine. Most likely, it will spool up very fast past the surge line, and choke-out at higher engine rpms. The turbo is pretty big for a T3/T4, so otherwise it probably would have been a decent choice. Since I am not an auto mechanic but rather speculating based on my education and experience in thermodynamics, I recommend getting a professional opinion from a rotary engine turbo specialist. However, I would not continue any further with this project until somebody competent can figure out how to get that turbo to work with your engine. As you have seen from the replies in this thread, this has yet to happen.

The other turbos from that vendor also seem to be sized for Hondas, so I doubt an exchange would work well. Do you think that you can return it for a refund or resell it? I know it is a bummer, but I don't see any point in spending all the time and money necessary to use that turbo just to end up with something that may be worse than what you have now.

These are probably better choices:
1. Simply get your OEM turbo rebuilt and ported by a turbo specialist such as BNR. It only costs about $400, it would require no additional modifications, and a 1-year warranty is reassuring.
BNR Supercars - Bryan Nickell's Rotary Supercars - Mazda RX-7 2nd Generation (1987-1991)
2. Or, consult with an experienced rotary engine turbo vendor like Turblown and buy a system that will work well with your goals and budget. Those who previously replied to this thread are correct in that this will require a turbo, turbo manifold, fuel system modifications, plumbing, and possibly also a downpipe, intercooler, wastegate, boost controller, boost gauge, upgraded clutch, upgraded radiator, professional tuning, etc. It is important to understand that this is a thought-out, engineered system, and not just a haphazard collection of parts from the internet. A realistic cost is between $3,000 and $10,000.

Kyle Wickings

So what A/R should be a minimum?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Slap a BNR stage 2 or 3 on there.(look up BNR Racing.Google)
It will fit without having to fart around with an external wastegate or a new manifold,etc,as they are a stock hybrid turbo.
Get an RTEK 1.8 or the programmable RTEK 2.1 ECU(it is a plug and play ECU,based on the Stock ecu.Has a chip and you can program the fuel,etc)
You need higher CC injectors to run it the turbo,so 720 to 1000's would do it.

This is the easy way.

the Hard way is piecing everything together to fit and work together.

Kyle Wickings

I have the manifold, 44mm wastegate, dump pipe, down pipe. Last thing was oil lines. Then comes up I have to just sell this t3.

Evil Aviator

Typically, the turbine A/R is .84 to 1.15. However, the optimal turbine A/R depends on many factors, such as engine output, type of racing, boost level, turbine and compressor size, clipped vs. unclipped wheel, ball bearing vs. journal bearing, divided vs. undivided manifold, and so on. This is why you want somebody competent designing the system as opposed to parroting some numbers that you read on the internet.

You will still need to upgrade the fuel delivery system, otherwise the engine will blow up, as stated earlier in the thread.

Get a professional opinion before you do that. I'm just saying that I doubt it will work well, and that it is a good idea to keep it as close to new condition in case you end up selling it.

Kyle Wickings

Evil, I ended up trading the ebay piece for a hx35 with no shaft play.

Evil Aviator

Is it a T3 or T4 flange?

Kyle Wickings

t3

Evil Aviator

So given the information in the forum discussion, how well do you think that is going to work?

Is it a 9 cm^2 housing?

Kyle Wickings

I'm not sure, where exactly do I look to know? Regardless; even it's prolly not the best omg 500hp+ turbo. It has a bigger exhaust than the ebay one I had did.
9 cm2 = 0.65 A/R
12 cm2 = 0.89 A/R

Kyle Wickings

People use GT35R's quite often I see on T2's. Their numbers are
Max power 500 HP
Inlet Size 4”
Outlet Size 2.5”
T3 Flange
Journal bearing
Compressor Trim .70ar
Compressor Wheel
Inducer Dia.: 57.4 mm
Exducer Dia.: 82.00 mm
Turbine Trim .63ar
Turbine Wheel
Inducer Dia.: 57.5 mm
Exducer Dia.:73.6mm