toastytidefan09

Let's say I keep my FD near stock instead of going single turbo. Is there anything I can do to the stock twins to make them perform better and/or last longer? Just doing some more homework if you know what I mean! Any helpful info would help! BRAP! BRAP!

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

look up BNR turbos.

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

What he siad BNR stage 3's bnrsupercars.com But you will need upgraded injectors . and fuel pump a stand alone and clutch

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Replacing and relocating your solenoids would be a wise move as they are prone to heat failure. Moving them to a more accessible location such as behind the passenger side strut tower seems to be the desirable location for ease of servicing and better cooling airflow. Dale Clark has a few articles on testing them and suggestions for upgrades as well.

The solenoids for my Project OldTree's 20B-REW twins are actually GM truck EGR solenoids and are mounted on a length of M6 threaded rod behind the passenger side headlight using existing holes. 7 in total, so around 20 vacuum lines. Had to make a custom line clamp system to keep them tidy, but it's clean, straightforward and every line can be followed by eye. And should I break a barb (I have twice already ), they're overwhelmingly available at your local junkyard on every 1987+ GM Truck/Van/SUV and exceedingly accessible with only an 8mm socket/wrench and pocketknife.

If you're going to even touch the solenoids, I guarantee that you're either due or overdue for replacing their vacuum lines. Only use thick-walled silicone hose, 4mm for all items connected to the solenoid rack. This would be a good time to go Simplified Sequential as well. The exact stuff I used is 4mm ID, 10mm OD and works on everything in the car except the brake booster. Found it on ebay for ~$1/foot. Because my solenoids are remote mounted, I needed 50ft of vacuum line but the extra length was an investment in reliability and diagnostic ease

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

he'd have to remove the ABS to fit them there . under the engine may not be the beeesst location , But its not the worst either . and after you learn the system it really isnt that hard . I can take off the UIM , and replace a solenoid in a couple minutes

But running upgraded solenoids is a great idea

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

1. If your stock twins are in good shape to begin with, they should last a long time. Installing BNRs isn't making them last longer...it's replacing them. Mine have nearly 120k and still work perfectly. Mininmal shaft play.
2. Controversial, but IMO using a good synthetic oil helps. Better shear and resistance to coking in high heat enviroment. Regardless...regular and more frequent oil changes than a non-turbo or piston engine car.
3. Keep things at stock boost levels.
4. An efficient IC. The less pressure drop across the IC, the less your turbos have to work to maintain 10 psi at the UIM where the boost sensor is reading it.
5. Efini 'Y' Pipe. It flows a little better than the OEM 'Y' pipe (see #4). Also has the additional advantage of removing a failure prone coupler.
6. Efficient cooling, including oil. Also check the turbo coolant hoses. Old ones tend to swell and bloat. Change if necessary. They aren't much.
7. I agree with Akagis White Comet...quality silicone hoses and simplified sequential/emissions removal if your able in your area.
8. A set of DaleClark's viton check valves.
9. Raise the hood whenever practical after shut-off to relieve heat-soak and baking of solenoids and check-valves.
10. A simple AI/WI system....and IMO it doesn't have to be pre-turbo to help the turbos.
11. NEVER boost until the engine is at operating temperature. Hard on the turbos and engine.

toastytidefan09

There is a lot of good information here, I have read a few books and have seen what you all have said in them. I will be taking this into consideration as I debate which way to go with my project in the future!