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Turbocharging/Supercharging 12A or 13B N/A

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Old 10-07-15, 03:28 PM
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Turbocharging/Supercharging 12A or 13B N/A

Group I am new to the Rotary world and I am interested to know if its possible to Turbocharge or Supercharge a N/A 12A or 13B motor? If so I have a few questions:


1)Is it better to do a carbureted draw through setup or blow through on a daily driver? How much power can each potentially make?
2)How much psi can the motors safely handle?
3)Will a Mitsubishi TE04H Turbo from a Turbocharged dodge be sufficient for a daily driver?
4)If Supercharging is a Eaton M90 from a 89 Supercoupe too large?


Any help/info will be appreciated!


Thanks!
Old 10-08-15, 08:03 AM
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There's a lot of info on this in the 1st gen section. Jeff20b is quite knowledgeable in this area.
Old 10-08-15, 08:53 AM
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From what i know it has been done to turbo a NA motor but if its a daily its prob not a good idea to be boosting a NA motor and it will probably blow up with normal amount of boost pretty quick i would go for a T2 swap theirs a lot more you can do and your probably be a lot more happier with a T2.

or you can keep the NA in it and beef it up a little that what i did to my 13b s4 and its alot of fun and i daily it with no problems.Look up BEEFY NA thread and read some of it you might want to go that direction
Old 10-13-15, 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by cook11
I am interested to know if its possible to Turbocharge or Supercharge a N/A 12A or 13B motor?
Yes, but it is common to use lower-compression rotors depending on the boost level. Rotary engines are high-rpm engines with a very strong exhaust stream, therefore turbocharging is much more popular. Also, the turbine soaks up a lot of exhaust noise, which is an added benefit for these really loud engines.

Originally Posted by cook11
1)Is it better to do a carbureted draw through setup or blow through on a daily driver? How much power can each potentially make?
That's like asking which turd tastes the best. If you insist on eating a turd, then choose the blow-through. Draw-through throttle response isn't so great, and it is prone to icing. Carbs are not able to accurately meter fuel (especially over the wide range of conditions in which a supercharged engine operates), so they will produce less power than an EFI system. I would estimate power at around 165 bhp, which isn't worth the trouble in my opinion.

Originally Posted by cook11
2)How much psi can the motors safely handle?
With a crappy carb, horribly inefficient Roots blower, high-compression NA rotors, and no intercooler, I would recommend 6 psi max. With a modern intercooled turbocharger, well-tuned EFI, low-compression rotors, and other modifications the engine can handle over 20 psi boost. However, most turbocharged street engines run around 8-15 psi boost.
FC3S Pro v2.0: From Mild 2 Wild - Power

Originally Posted by cook11
3)Will a Mitsubishi TE04H Turbo from a Turbocharged dodge be sufficient for a daily driver?
Too small. Typical aftermarket turbo size for a street RX-7 is a Garrett 60-1, Garrett GT35R, Borg Warner EFR IWG 7670, or similar.

Originally Posted by cook11
4)If Supercharging is a Eaton M90 from a 89 Supercoupe too large?
It depends on what you want. I recommend that you read Corky Bell's "Supercharged!" book so that you can get a good idea of how to select a supercharger for a given application. It will also let you know what is involved in making a custom installation. Even better, it may explain why turbos are more popular when the intent is to go fast.
Old 10-15-15, 02:18 PM
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I'm actually owning a draw through turbo RX7 SA. The 12A engine is totally stock and I'm running 12psi out of a Rayjay-turbo which is something like a T04B. So far the engine is running well and it has been running like this for about 27000 miles and 33 years now (yes it was built that long ago and used as a race car for about 10 years). The car has about 270bhp.
Buuuuuut it in no way is a daily driver. I have to use a water ethanol injection system to keep the intake air temperature down because you can't use an intercooler with a draw through setup and it's relatively hard to start the engine because of the long way between the carburetor and the intake port. I bought the car just because I was extremely interested in that old and rare turbo system and it's really fun to drive around with it because that old car can make 265bhp Subaru Impreza drivers cry as long as it's running well but it needs a lot of maintenance and adjustments to keep it like that. Really nothing you should try if you want to have a reliable car.
Old 10-18-15, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by cook11
1)Is it better to do a carbureted draw through setup or blow through on a daily driver? How much power can each potentially make?
Nothing with a carburetor should be a daily driver. Carburetors are for yard equipment, and only for a little while longer as integrated EFI modules that replace the carbs are about to hit the market from major manufacturers.

Draw through setups are horrible in general. Fuel puddling causing all kinds of warmup and light load issues.

Blow through is slightly better.

2)How much psi can the motors safely handle?
Depends on the turbo. 15 PSI from a T25 sized turbo is a lot different than 15 PSI from a T4 sized turbo.

But like anything, boost pressure capability depends on charge cooling, compression, ignition advance, fuel octane and airflow.

Assuming fuel, ignition and cooling are taken care of, than typically I say to keep the boost under about 16 PSI for a reliable daily driver on high compression rotors.

3)Will a Mitsubishi TE04H Turbo from a Turbocharged dodge be sufficient for a daily driver?
That is an ancient turbocharger for a small 4 cylinder. The 13B needs to be treated as a large 6 cylinder when sizing turbos.

4)If Supercharging is a Eaton M90 from a 89 Supercoupe too large?
This inefficient roots blower is too small and not efficient over a wide RPM range when geared for rotary use.

In addition to Evil Aviator suggestion, also take a look at the book "Street Rotary". A good introduction to building rotary engines for performance and detailed chapters on fuel management & forced induction.
Street Rotary HP1549: How to Build Maximum Horsepower & Reliability into Mazda's 12a, 13b & Renesis Engines: Mark Warner: 9781557885494: Books - Amazon.ca Street Rotary HP1549: How to Build Maximum Horsepower & Reliability into Mazda's 12a, 13b & Renesis Engines: Mark Warner: 9781557885494: Books - Amazon.ca
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