re japi

Hi.

I´m a newbie with renesis and I have 4 port engine project.

Question is that if I remove material too much from inside edge of ports, and rotors 3rd oil control ring (cut off seal) goes over those ports a little, does it cause problems to me?

I have understand that cut off seal is just extra, and keep some heat and exhaust fumes out...?

Thanks.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

welcome to the board.

if you're asking what i think you're asking, then why are you trying to touch that inner edge? you will basically run the chance of pulling oil into the intake, which of course will cause smoking.

the cut off seal is there to protect the oil seals from the exhaust.

Arca_ex

iTrader: (3)

If you touched any portion of the inside edge of any of the ports then the iron is likely not usable anymore. They are already as close as you'd want to get to the rotor seals from the factory.

re japi

It was my brainfart. :/ Started to port, and didnt realize that cut off seal is REALLY close... Didnt port a lot, just wanted to make it smoother...

So cant use that plate anymore? :/

But can I lose that outer cut off seal and run it with just two seals?

Or can I put a little chemical metal to that inner edge area? I was thinking to do that anyway, I want to shape those ports to different style. Alltough that chemical metal wont help in exhaust side, just because of heat...

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

surface work was all i did to mine in that area ... and it was very light. as long as you did not change the aperture (the 2D contour), you should be okay. if you changed the aperture, then as Arca said, it's likely FUBAR and will probably smoke. if you did the same to the exhaust aperture, it's probably junk now.

re japi

Im not completely sure what you mean, but... seems like I have "rotary art" in my hands then... crap... :/

Well, its just practice and prototype engine, so not big deal. Plates were quite worn, and one housing was crap. Dont even know bearing toleranses, didnt check them yet...

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

i'll try to explain a little better. the port is 3-dimensional, but if you're looking at the surface of the housing, you only see the 2-dimensional shape (the aperture). what i'm sort of unclear about is did you remove material that changes the original shape/lines of the aperture in that inner area where the oil scraper and seals move or did you just do work on the surface of the inner edge that leads down into the bowl?

working on the bowl in that area is okay (as long as it's minor surface work), changing the aperture (or moving that original line) is not. does that makes better sense?

3rdgensleeper

iTrader: (10)

Picture is needed here bud, but for the inside edge that runs along with the control rings.... Do not port that or even round it. It is way to close on the Rene motor and you will have a smoking issue.

re japi

Ok, I understand. I changed lines/shapes of that port, went too far towards centre of that plate, maybe 2-3 mm from original ports edge...

Its a FUBAR then, no pictures needed

Thanks for help, much appreciated

Now I can really destroy that plate to see where those water channels are and how far I can really port those.

Arca_ex

iTrader: (3)

It's really not worth your time to do any porting on a 4 port low power renesis. Just smooth them out without changing the port shape and be done with it.

re japi

Yes, I have heard that. But I really think that there is potential in 4port renesis. And I wanted to see and learn...

Actually, my plan is to do semi pp, with stock intake manifold. But I got greedy with my grinder.

Arca_ex

iTrader: (3)

Wouldn't really help, the problem in those engines is getting the exhaust out. The exhaust ports are the restriction and I think a semi peripheral intake setup is a waste of time but if you're just experimenting then have at it.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

i tend to agree that it has some potential. i mean, as long as your expectations are within reason. if i had to speculate, i would tend to think you'd match a ported 6-port or thereabouts in terms of peak. it would likely have a different powerband though. as far as using the stock intake, it appears that the secondary runners sit smack-dab in the middle of where you would need to put the peripheral runners, so it may just be best to go custom. i hope you didn't mind my unsolicited thoughts on the matter.

oh yeah ... and grinder greed will get you almost everytime.

all true. however, as i mentioned above, i believe it can be worth it if you just like to build things and you keep realistic expectations.

re japi

Yes, these are just thoughts and ideas that I want to try. Dont have big expectations. Well, I dont want them to blow up My goal isnt to get big power, goel is better powerband. And maybe better torque.

Using stock intake with semi pp fitted to it, might be just dream. There is very little room to cut it and weld custom runners to it. But I have a plan, stock intake and friend who is quite good aluminium welder. But plan b is to use bike throttle body with custom made manifold.

Im awere that exhaust ports are the biggest problem in these engines. I have been thinking that I need to cut/port exhaust open atleast 10degrees/1cm, so it opens earlier and flows better(or enough). However, this means I cut straight to water channel. Actually, I did it allready. At that point, water channel isnt big yet, so it might be possible to weld shut. Only question is, will it hold at those temperatures... That made me think better cooling to that area...

re japi

Btw, does earlier 13b 4port LIM fit to 4 port renesis? Bolt patterns, holes and so on...?

Also, a bit off topic but, what kind of spark plugs you suggest to used in:
-streetported 12? (just a street cruiser)
-lightly tuned Fd? (ecu, exhaust, intake done)
-modified Fd? (ecu, turbo, exhaust, intake done, some track days)
-semi pp 13b? (trackday fun car)
-full pp 13b? (full rally/rallycross car)

And more important, I need "stock numbers" for them?!
Thanks

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

no. the manifolds do not line up with each other. not to mention the secondary ports/runners are a completely different shape

streetport 12A = NGK BR_EV (or whatever has replaced them now)

lightly tuned FD = NGK BUR_EQP

heavily modified FD and full PP = i don't know.

semi-PP = i don't know, but i do plan to try running the same BR_EVs and see how they behave when the time comes. also, you could look at what the bridge port guys run because from what i've read, the semi-PP engines behave quite similarly.

re japi

Ok, thanks. I thought so too...

And thanks for spark plug info too...

NSR

Im a newb! Who do you recommend for porting?

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

just found this link in another thread and thought it might interest you.

Spark Plugs

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

welcome to the board.

probably best if you get your post count up and then check out the Regional forum that covers Texas. you would be able to get more informed replies of who, local to you, can port and rebuild rotaries and do so honorably.

NSR

Ok! Thanks for the tips