2genvert.duck

This is a long post - just read the bolded part if you're short on time.

Owned the 89 vert since new and had a 79 RX-7 before that. Hasn't run since 2008 or so. Garaged it due to leaking top and radiator and getting sidetracked by motorcycles. From experience with wrenching on the 20 or so motorcycles I've owned (still own 8 of them) I'm pretty sure that the FIs might be stuck or at a minimum have some varnish build-up in them so my first task in reviving it is to pull the FIs and send them off to get them refurb'd.

I've always done my own wrenching on all of my vehicles but on my RX-7s, aside from routine maintenance, adding beefier anti-sway bars and some other minor mods, I'm pretty much of a nOOb in the RX-7 arena.

So what I need is a little help in locating and pulling the FIs. From what I've been able to determine so far there's two pairs, primary and secondary on the left side of the engine and each set has its own fuel rail. I could use some pointers on how to pull them.

I'm also interested in knowing if there are some non-stock FIs that are better than the stock ones.


As a side note, I've always found Mr Injector to be an awesome FI guy. I've used him for something like ten sets of motorcycle FIs and always had great results with superfast turnaround. I once sent him a set of four bike FIs that had been sitting more than 15 years and were covered in rust spots. He emailed me when he got them to let me know he probably couldn't get two of them unstuck and they were probably toast. I wasn't surprised. He emailed the next day to let me know that he'd finally gotten them unstuck. When I got them back he had sanded and repainted them and they looked like new, all for his standard refurb price. I sent him garbage and got back a set of refub'd "like new" FIs. I highly recommend him and that's where my RX FIs are going.

Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with Mr Injector except as a very satisfied customer.


BTW, though an RX nOOb, I am not new to wrenching and know BMW K bikes inside and out. K bikes share one thing in common with RX-7s - they LOVE high RPMs.

My biggest project so far has been a custom K75 build integrating parts from different K bike models spanning 12 years. I started with this:



And here's the finished product:



And I built a website to help out other K bike owners:
K Bike Maintenance & Modifications

I am not posting that as Spam (I don't make a nickel off of that site.) but to get some street cred as somebody who can wrench their way out of a wet paper bag and is not a total nOOb in the wrenching arena.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

On an '89 'Vert, the secondaries will be visible just by looking at the engine around the are the big ABS intake tube meets the throttle body. The secondaries will be on the upper intake below that tube, on the two outer runners.

The primary injectors are located below the upper intake (upper needs to come off to access them) on the center iron. Once the upper intake is removed you will see the short fuel rail.

The Factory Service Manuals for all years of RX-7 (and many other rotary cars) can be downloaded for free here: Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals . They contain all common service information information and more, and are an essential tool for any sort of service work that needs to be performed on these cars.

Additionally, the Haynes service manual for the 1986 thru 1991 RX-7 (both turbo and NA) can be found at most local auto parts stores or purchased from any good bookstore (ISBN number 1 56392 007 7). It is only about $25 and is a great quick reference for things like this. Not only does it contain most of the information in the FSM condensed into an easy to read format, but it includes full wiring diagrams as well.

These manuals will answer 99% of service related questions for the car and if you intend to do your own repair work, you will need at least one of them. Preferably both, since the FSM is a free download. The Haynes is a good quick reference covering 99% of questions, while the FSMs show complete and detailed procedures.

Now as for better injectors...yes, there is. The RX-8 450CC injectors are a drop in replacement if you swap the injector connectors to the Denso style. Since your car is high impedance they are electrically compatible and provide a better spray pattern. Same size as the stock 460CC (basically).

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Not certain on the FC, but I pulled the rails on the FD and the retainer 'cap', laid a rag over the top to keep them from flying. Then used compressed air from a rubber tipped air gun pushed firmly on one end. They popped right out...no prying.

2genvert.duck

Thanks. I suppose it's just a matter of digging in and learning as I go.

I do have a hardcopy Haynes 86-89 that I bought when I got the car and the PDFs of the factory manual so I'll do some studying in those.

Are the primary and secondary FIs the same injectors or are they different parts?

Is there a 2nd gen online parts fiche somewhere? I found some PDFs of the parts fiche but they're scanned and not searchable so a navigable online fiche would be prerferred.

2genvert.duck

And how does the fuel pump work on these? Since the fuel is six years old I plan to siphon out what's in there and then hopefully use the fuel pump to get the remainder out by disconnecting the fuel filter (which I'm replacing) and hooking a hose up there.

Does the fuel pump run with just the ignition on or does the engine need to be turning for the fuel pump to run? (The latter is how it works on my motorcycles.)

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

You can get at the pump by lifting the rear carpet and taking the small aluminum plate off the rear driver's side floor(4 philips screws).It exposes the top of the fuel tank.(8 pesky phillips screws..Have fun.)
The pump works at Key to Start..then as the AFM sees air it kicks a relay to allow the pump to remain pumping fuel.
So in essence you can move the AFM cone(on the inside) and it should kick the pump on.
You can always jumper the fuel check connector (2 wire rubber encased connector at the passenger strut tower) and that will also fool the pump to turn on.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

They are the same. 460CC high impedance.

You'll find the parts catalog here: Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals

2genvert.duck

I was looking at fuel system wiring diagrams this morning and it looks like I can jump the fuel pump directly at the fuel tank connector by jumping the ground and the blue/green wire that powers the fuel pump.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

sure you could do that.You'd just put 12 volts to the pump there.
BUT when you have to get all the stuff I mentioned out of the road to get at the tank ,.,.WHY?
The fuel Check connector at the Front of the car is to test the pump..Easy to access..and no ripping the rear of the car to get at.Jumper the connector..Whirrr..done.
Some people give up on these cars because they turn a simple task into something complicated.
Testing fuel is an easy job.

2genvert.duck

Point taken. Thank you.