NJ-JDM

iTrader: (23)

Just purchased my first rotary, a 1993 Touring.

It had a K&N in the stock box, a down pipe, high flow cat and a cat back. I added a boost gauge and for the most part the turbos seems to be transitioning 10-8-10 most of the time. But I think I maybe in a over-boost sometimes as well.

From what I have read, my best option may be to just get a Power FC, tune the car as it sits and then it will be ready for more future mods.

Thanks

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Not sure what you're asking.
There is an old but IMO still valid "three mod rule" on these cars. Essentially it says that the stock ECU was turned a bit on the rich side from the factory. Rich enough that three performance mods are allowed on the stock ECU before a standalone is necessary. You have two of them. (I don't count a K & N if that's the only intake mod)
That said, before I would continue with ANY performance mods I would make sure certain supporting "reliability mods" are in place. Many of those center around cooling. Aftermarket all-metal (aluminum) radiator, because the plastic end-tanks tend to fail with age and heat. Aluminum AST for the same reason. Good sound coolant hoses, especially the turbo coolant lines which tend to swell because of their exposure to turbo heat, all duct work and belly pan in place, fresh coolant, good caps etc. Some of those you may already have from a previous owner. Almost certainly you don't have all of them.
As a new owner you really should go to the 3rd Gen. section and read through the FAQ sticky. And if you haven't already, download a copy of the Factory Service Manual...also available in that sticky. Personally I recommend new owners not do any performance mods during the first year of ownership. This isn't a Honda. Do all basic maintenance, change out ALL fluids, get all those reliability mods in place and fix anything that needs it. Just learn about the car.

NJ-JDM

iTrader: (23)

Thanks for the reply. I guess I skipped over a few things.

This car sat in storage for a few years. The PO bought it and had a lot of maintenance work done before I bought it. All fluids, plugs, wires, main rad hoses, new OEM rotors and pads, rebuilt calipers, belts, O2 sensor, new HF cat, may be leaving something out.

Once I had the car, we noticed it had the AST eliminated. It now has an alum AST. The stock rad is about to blow, top end tank is leaking. New rad showed up yesterday. I am also going to check/replace the thermostat as the car runs very cool as indicated on the dash and I don't have much heat. Thanks for suggesting to check the turbo lines as well.

I also had IRP do a compression check as the motor is thought to have 40k on it. Chassis is at 129k.

All that being said, it has been suggested to me that I may be running lean at the top end because of the exhaust mods and to be safe a PFC is the next logical step for BOTH longevity and more HP.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

I'm not trying to dissuade you from a PFC, I have one myself (see signature). But if you keep it at stock boost levels, IMO your fine with those mods you've listed. And if that's the case with the maintenance on your car, then sounds like your set.
One other thing ...it sounds like you're monitoring temps from the "dash" stock temp gauge. DO NOT RELY ON THAT GUAGE. It isn't linear and as such, is worse than no gauge at all. And cost more than one owner an engine. If you go with a PFC, you'll be able to monitor temps accurately on the Commander, or just add a decent aftermarket gauge. I still highly recommend that sticky read. It'll take a few nights, but well worth the effort. That POS stock temp gauge is one of the things covered.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

I'm not trying to dissuade you from a PFC, I have one myself (see signature). But if you keep it at stock boost levels, IMO your fine with those mods you've listed. And if that's the case with the maintenance on your car, then sounds like your set.
One other thing ...it sounds like you're monitoring temps from the "dash" stock temp gauge. DO NOT RELY ON THAT GUAGE. It isn't linear and as such, is worse than no gauge at all. And cost more than one owner an engine. If you go with a PFC, you'll be able to monitor temps accurately on the Commander, or just add a decent aftermarket gauge. I still highly recommend that sticky read. It'll take a few nights, but well worth the effort. That POS stock temp gauge is one of the things covered.

fdbeast

i suggest get a power fc and dyno tune would be safest. then you can add whatever you like and not limited to just 3 mods. i never heard of that 3 mod rule tho. say i was do 2 mods: down pipe and mid pipe remove all cats, i'm pretty sure i would be boost creeping and potentially blow the motor with a stock ecu. correct?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

^If the cat-back was free-flowing enough, yes, you run the risk of boost creep. But a PFC still wouldn't help. You'd still run lean and you'd still blow up the engine. To expand on your post...IMO a mid-pipe is silly on a street car anyway. It's loud, the exhaust will make your eyes water from a block away and, as you pointed out, it risks producing boost creep. They will impress in the high school parking lot though...especially if they're called "race pipes".

OP, the PFC has other advantages aside from tune-ability. As mentioned, you can monitor a lot of parameters, injector duty, IAT's, Coolant temps etc. But it also helps a lot to smooth out transitions. And you need one (or another standalone) if you ever wanted to delete emissions. But it will set you back between $1000 and $1200. And since in another thread I sensed you might be on a budget (short shifters and "not wanting to spend a ton") I wasn't going to knee-jerk by recommending you get a standalone and it will cure all problems.
Heard nothing but good about IRP and not going to argue with a shop. But with those mods and keeping it at 10 psi with the stock twins, no standalone is needed IMO.