Guy de Loimbard

Hello,
Bought an 88 vert a couple of weeks ago, been working on straightening it out since. It runs incredibly rich and has a bit of an idle burble going on. Sounds like prrrrrr, burp prrrrrrrrr, burp burp like a 4 cyl that's occasionally missing on one cyl.
P.O. Had the leading plugs wired to the trailing coil, and the trailing plugs on the leading coil. After fixing that it idles at 1100 rpm. Before I set the idle I'm trying to get ahold of a new tps as mine read 0.45 kohm at WOT.

What else should I be looking out for on a car that went at least 6k miles with the plugs wired up backwards? This is my first rotary engined car.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I'd obviously change the plugs!

satch

iTrader: (1)

You should get the idle lower before trying to set the TPS as it is basically designed to be set (at least through the voltage method) w/the idle speed close to 750 rpm.

Guy de Loimbard

Brief update,
After reading the FAQ and a couple of threads in the 2nd gen section, I did go and retest the TPS properly. (after 30 miles drive, with TPS unplugged from car) It was registering 1.3 k ohm and I was able to dial it down to 1.0 k ohm. Shows 6 k ohm at WOT.

This took care of running rich. I got 21mpg out of my last tank. Does not smell like a snowmobile any more. But, I am running in to a new problem: car runs HOT! With the A/C on it once went halfway up the temp gage. I can keep it to 1/3 way up the gage, by driving with the heater on full blast which is not pleasant.

Also, now at mid-high engine speeds (3k-7k) it jerks and shudders like a car about to run out of gas. But only in warmer weather. If the temperature is below 70F it is for the most part fine.

According to the PO the car has only had 6000 miles put on it since a rebuilt engine was put in (back in 1997!!!). If this story is true I'm wondering what else I should be checking? I've ordered a thermostat and gasket, fuel filter and sock (sock was NASTY, but Napa gave me the wrong part the firs time around so I haven't ruled that out yet)

Is the thermo pellet something I should consider just to rule out the e-shaft bypass thermostat?

satch

iTrader: (1)

When the car shudders how does it behave if you rev the car while in neutral? Does it still shudder? You might want to test the AFM according to spec as illustrated in the FSM. You also might want to check the pressure sensor as it activates close to 3000 rpm. The Brown/Red wire reads close to 2.5 volts w/key to on. You also might want to test the Water Thermosensor at the ECU. Pin 2I (Green/Yellow wire) reads 2 to 3 volts w/key to on and engine cold and the voltage drops to .4 volts when fully warmed. And the TPS plunger fully extends at 3k so you might want to test for dead spots. Voltage on the Green/Red wire goes from 1 volt fully warmed at idle to 4.5 volts fully extended (done w/everything connected).