driven-daily

Hey guys, my google fu seems to be failing me here. I have a good lead on a TII transmission but it has no bellhousing. I don't have a way to verify if the turbo/na bellhousings are interchangeable or not, so I'm left asking here. Thanks in advance!

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

you can't put an N/A bell housing on a TII trans.
WHY?..the N/A bell housing is actually Part of the casing.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Yes you can but it has to be from an old school RX trans.

driven-daily

Now I know! We just got hammered with ~20" of snow, so I couldn't really go out into the driveway to get a good look at my bellhousing. That's a little disappointing, but not as disappointing as having purchased the turbo trans only to find that it didn't fit.

Evil Aviator

The TII transmission also has a different sized clutch spline and output shaft, so it will not work with an NA clutch or NA MT driveshaft. The starter and clutch slave cylinder are also different. Basically, you need to stick with either an all-NA drivetrain or an all-TII drivetrain in order to avoid headaches.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Yep..as my friend said..if you go to a TII trans setup then you basically need everything From the Engine BACK.,.so regular N/A Engine..switch flywheel,clutch starter,Pressure plate,slave cylinder.Trans.. to TII..then TII driveshaft.
After that mess you got to connect it to the Rear DIFF and IF you keep the N/A diff then you have to make sure that the driveshaft IS a Conversion shaft (TII Trans to N/A Diff) ..again because of different flanges.(N/A and TII differ)
Or else you need the whole *** end of a TII to connect the driveshaft to it..!

driven-daily

Well, that sounds like a lot more headache than it's worth just for a stronger transmission. What I'm hearing here is:

"A TII transmission is more work than it's worth, you should be asking about which limited slip differentials fit instead."

Evil Aviator

It depends. What are you trying to accomplish?

driven-daily

Shorter times without sacrificing street legality or efficiency. This is both a hillclimb race car and daily driver, meaning that it should be as capable as possible at both jobs. I have found power adders to be an expensive way to go faster, as they decrease fuel efficiency, typically break parts more frequently, and engine building is much more expensive than lightening a vehicle or improving suspension. I want to add power when it's the only thing keeping me from going faster.

I suppose I should qualify what I mean by 'daily driver.' I have never enjoyed having shiny paint, carpets, or air conditioning as features of a car. I like luxuries like effective headlights, a correctly positioned and well-bolstered seat, and windows that can both go up and down.

With all that in mind, a limited slip differential would certainly improve my hillclimb times, as well as improve daily drive-ability. My Miata has an open diff and is a challenge to drive up some of the steeper hills around here during winter storms. It's a win-win, and it appears any Mazda 7" LSD fits in my '87 N/A diff housing. I still need to do more research on what's available, and which clutched options are available. Between clutched and torsion differentials, I prefer clutched because they perform more consistently with one driven wheel off the ground (a common occurrence in hillclimbs around here).

All of this is subject to correction and addendums as I learn more about this platform specifically, and is only general knowledge based on my experience with piston-engines. It appears that making power in rotary engines is significantly less expensive initially than in piston engines, but it's entirely possible that I'm missing some critical information there. I'm new to this, and came here to learn.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Ya,some models came with N/A LSD..That would most likely be the cheapest way if you want to stay N/A.
You could also use a N/A Trans BUT a TII Diff and axles.
You just need to Convert the Driveshaft.
they do make the Conversion Driveshaft (N/A Trans to TII Diff).I think Racing Beat makes it.

driven-daily

Excellent to know. I feel like most of this is common knowledge around here, but there's *so much* to go through that sometimes finding specific information like this is a challenge. I just had a driveshaft made for my Datsun, and it came to a total of $200 including yokes, so I'm not too concerned about buying a pre-made shaft and dealing with the shipping for that. It's always worth shopping around locally.