Alejandro Garcia

So I recently bought a rx7 on a whim, she's certainly a project but it runs pretty strong and I like it so far. I've already encountered a lot of issues though, it leaks oil only when turned on and that oil smells like gas. Whenever I engage the clutch you hear a slapping/clunking noise from the rear end that I can't really identify. I've found a few vacuum lines needing replaced and a lot of wires not connected to anything. And the biggest one is I can't get it to start without a jump or charging the,battery . it runs once started but won't turn back on after I turn it off, I don't see anything that could be draining the battery.

Alejandro Garcia

Can I get some help? I don't even know where to start

Rikk

iTrader: (2)

I would start by getting yourself a FSM(can be downloaded at foxed.ca) that may help to explain the disconnected wires, then start by checking all your grounds at the battery and alternator. Does it try and turn over by the key or just click? How does the clutch pedal feel? Does it feel strong or does it feel soft like it could need to be bled? The noise you're hearing could be the clutch fork or the throwout bearing? I've never had a clutch fork break but I've heard of others who have. Let us know
GL Rikk

Alejandro Garcia

Ok ty, I'm going to get that downloaded today. I also ordered some vacuum line and was wondering where I could find a non turbo diagram of that? This car has alot of shortcuts , I took a lot of pictures last night if that would help. The clutch is super soft and makes me think I will need one soon ? Or can they be adjusted on These? My headlights stopped working last night, they flip open and closed butno light comes on. When I charge the battery and try to start it sounds like it really wants to but than refuses to start, but when i get a jump it fires right up and runs. Also the gas smelling oil leak seems to be by my injector? I have a lot of pics of that would help?

Alejandro Garcia

The car is without a doubt an electrical mess, dash lights don't work. Highbeams don't work (now normal headlights,dont) the lights dim during idle, it idles at about 1300 rpm which seems extremely high? And it,smells like the fuel is running way too rich

Alejandro Garcia

I was thinking the noise had to be in the rear end

Rikk

iTrader: (2)

The FSM will have vacuum routing for all models I would check the fluid on the clutch and if necessary add fluid then check for leaks if no leaks bleed the clutch if that doesn't work replace it, have you checked the battery for yet? Battery testers are inexpensive, auto parts stores will normally do this for free that sounds like a weak/dead battery

Alejandro Garcia

I'm going to check the battery today, when I charge it up with my charger it works properly for the first start than not again. Its sticker says 2015 and its a duralast gold. The clutch fluid is full but looks fairly dirty. Once I get it started reliably I will be working on figuring,that leak out but one thing at a time. Ty for the replys when this car runs its a beast I drove it for a hour and 20 home when I purchased it and it ran great to my knowledge

Alejandro Garcia

The battery checked out ok

Alejandro Garcia

So the battery was bad, a new one fixed the issue. I still can't even identify where the oil/gas leak comes from or how to fix it. It seems the thermostat isn't working now, so I guess This week I'd like to fix the leak and flush the rad/install a new thermostat

Alejandro Garcia

While I'm ordering my thermostat and radiator hoses and new temp sensor would it be benifical to buy another aftermarket temp gauge to install in the cabin as well? I would hate to see this car overheat. There is a just temp one 2inches or I could get a 4 in 1 one that does voltage temp oil pressure and a tach which is 5inches, it would look cool where my radio should be, but I'm not sure how accurate or beneifical it would be? I plan on daily driving this car once I get it all correct , don't really plan on having a radio I like the exhaust sound too much

Alejandro Garcia

How to know if my rx7 is s4 or s5? I see plenty of talk about them but nothing says how to know which I have? I still can't identify this stupid leak

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

an S4 is an 1986-88 model..the s5 is 89-91.
You can tell the difference of engine quickly as the Thermostat neck on the s4 has 2 bolts holding it to the waterpump housing while the S5 is plastic and has 3 bolts holding it down.
You can get an aftermarket gauge if you wish.The thing is locating a sufficient place for the sensor to go.
You can drill the back of the waterpump or get a hose adapter piece (look up BuddyClub) and place it in the upper rad hose.Other places are available but they elude my memory right now but you can find then when you research where to place a sensor.

Alejandro Garcia

Ok cool so I have a s5, makes it easier when part hunting, I think I'll do a gauge or two to fill in space in the interior I'm missing quite a few things. I still can't find this oil leak and that what is truly preventing me from driving atm it only leaks when turned on and looks to be coming from one of the like 3 hoses under my oil filter I think? Its in the general area under the filter. Does anyone have any ideas? I'm avoiding bringing it anywhere until I do all the simple things myself, I'm still fixing a few vacuum lines, this weekend I'll drain and refill the radiator, replace tstat, add aftermarket water gauge, oil change and I'm getting my fuel injectors cleaned and rebuilt. I would really like to find and eliminate this dang leak. Also I still haven't managed to get my headlights back on yet. Any help is appreciated guys I can't wait to get it on the road. I also plan on doing spark plugs and wires this weekend, goal is to have it on the road in the next 2 weeks

Alejandro Garcia

So I sprayed the engine down with degreaser and cleaned it a bit, going to clean it better tomorrow and try to find out where the leak is actually coming from. I tried today but I didn't clean well enough...also for the first time the idle actually was going between 600and 800...the engine made a odd hissing noise from the back of the bay I couldn't locate that either I will investigate further today. Also do you guys have any idea as to what would make my headlights stop turning on out of nowhere? They go up and down the night I purchased,the car,they turned on...now they don't turn on at all and everything is connected

Andrew Falls

Rx7's are riddles with a lot of electrical quirks lol! The headlight switch may be bad or broken inside causing it to go on by itself or not work at all, also as far as the battery is concerned, check to make sure all your grounds are tight, a bad ground will cause it not to start. The oil leak maybe coming from the oil cooler lines, one is located by the oil filter and the other one comes off of the front cover. On to the clunking, check your driveshaft and rear mounts, those both would cause a clunking noise in the rear. A good website for factory replacement parts is mazdatrix.com. I've used them a lot and they are always helpful.

Alejandro Garcia

Found somebody to fix the leak rear end and wiring. Now that thats,handled he made me aware that I'll need a clutch soon. Are the ebay kits any good? Would it be worthwhile to buy a lightweight flywheel? Do I need a counterweight if I do? It already has a full custom exhaust would a aftermarket radiator preform better than stock? What mods should I look into? Major work? I want to make it a little snappier and I want to keep it reliable..

Andrew Falls

I had an exedy stage 1 clutch and I loved it and yes you do need a new counter weight when you get a light weight flywheel. I had a fidanza and it can with said counter weight. As far as performance, you can get a tune, exhaust, a high flow filter or a cone filter, I bought mine through rx7.com and I believe it was a bonez kit. Other than that the only other mods the bring real power is having the housings street ported, half bridge ported or full bridge but that brings in heftier costs. I think you'll be happy with a intake mod and tune.

Alejandro Garcia

Cool, thank you I'll start looking at and researching some intake mods. A tune? Where would I go,about doing that? I plan on redoing my radiator hoses heater hoses thermostat and adding a water temp gauge and a fuel/air,gauge . does a lightweight flywheel take away from daily driving ?

Alejandro Garcia

Ok so I found a mechanic... He fixed my idle, headlights ran vacuum lines... Changed oil and all fluids and fuel filter installed a aftermarket clutch and fixed the rear end slapping noise. Where do I go from here? Do I begin replacing parts? If so where do I start? He said I have a full bola exhaust including headers. The car is running strong and is a blast to drive now.he says when I'm ready he has several years of rebuilds porting and turbo conversions under his belt but I feel there is a lot I should do before than? Besides he said himself I've got a lot of miles to enjoy before a rebuild is neeeded so I'm saving $$ to rebuild and turbo when the time finally comes...but until than what should I do mechanically before I start the cosmetic stuff? What will add beef and not need replaced when going turbo? What parts are best to change/upgrade? If there isn't much I can do I'll just start pricing body work and a paint job

Alejandro Garcia

Also for a daily street driver /toy is stocksuspension good? Previous owner has it dropped so low I hate it...imnot sure if I should go aftermarket or jsust buy stock struts and call it a day

Evil Aviator

Honestly, I think these cars are pretty nice with the non-turbo engine.

I wouldn't recommend doing a turbo conversion because it is cheaper and easier to simply sell your car and buy a Turbo II car. However, most people on this forum suck at finance and therefore do not realize the extent of their folly in not listening to that advice, so if you insist on keeping your current car and turbocharging it, then for preparation you can swap out the transmission, flywheel (89-92), clutch, clutch slave cylinder, starter, driveshaft, differential, and halfshafts with Turbo II parts. They will mate just fine to the non-turbo engine, but you need to install them all at the same time because you can't mix and match them. If you find a good donor car at the junk yard, it is usually easiest to pull the entire rear subframe (includes wheel hubs and brakes).

The other power-related parts are probably better left for when you decide on a turbo. Well, maybe the one exception is a standalone EMS, but if it is going to be several years before you add the turbo then you may want to wait on the EMS because the technology will get better over the years and you will most likely be able to get a better and/or cheaper EMS several years from now.

If your radiator is old and crusty then you could upgrade to an all-aluminum performance radiator (Koyo, Griffin, Ron Davis, etc.) that will work with a higher-performance engine. You could also upgrade the suspension, brakes, or other parts that are not related to the drivetrain. I like the DOT-approved stainless steel brake lines and stainless steel clutch slave cylinder hose from Mazdatrix, and one of my favorite cheapie upgrades is the Fumoto oil drain valve (F-106 with no nipple).

Yes, the stock suspension is good as long as the parts are not worn.

If it is worn, then this is what I would recommend:
- Replace all mounts and bushings, and add toe eliminator bushings. Have your mechanic do this, as it is NOT something that you want to try on your own. Trust me, it sucks.
- At the same time as the mounts and bushings, install new dampers and springs if needed. For street and autocross driving, I recommend Racing Beat springs along with OEM or KYB AGX dampers if your car retains the rear stereo speakers, or you could use Tokico Illumina dampers if your car does not have rear stereo speakers.
- A strut tower brace is optional if you want more rigidity, and anti-sway bars are also optional if you want to reduce body roll. However, I would tend to not buy these items right away because many people think the car drives just fine without them, and they are things that you could probably install yourself.

Alejandro Garcia

Awsome ty for the reply I'll start shopping for the suspension parts, I'm still on the fence about the turbo and its still just a thought I doubt I've even taken this car to its full potential yet. It certainly needs suspension work it feels real wonky and was dropped too low. I've run into a new issue I took her out yesterday to get a re upholster quote and on the way there it drove excellent idle was good once warmed up and would rocket through gears. Well on my return trip the car died at every light and turn, refused to idel and was putting out a real foul smell. No smoke, no warnings or beeps, full fluids all the way around and I can get it to fire every time and run but it now refused to idle and died on turns, any ideas? I dontsee any burnt up hoses... Quarter tank of gas...I was driving it fairlyhard shifting at 7k- was taking 3rd gear to red line. It just randomly happened its only the second time I tookherout since the trip to my mechanic

Rikk

iTrader: (2)

That sounds like a fuel filter or possibly the fuel pump beginning to go bad, I would start with the engine compartment filter then in tank sock then pump if necessary. I agree with EA the NA cars can be a lot of fun(when modded properly) and the turbo swap even if you have all the parts can easily exceed $2-3k and a decent T2 can be found for close to the same price
GL

Alejandro Garcia

Hmok

Ty I thought the pump would create problems firing up not problems stalling out, I'll just
Order a new pump and in tank filter and clean the injectors while I'm at it...as old as if is I'm sure it won't do any harm thanks for the fast reply I've been worried its something severe and my mechanic is gone until next thursday