Joshowen

Hello I just bought my 1986 rx7 fc and when its cold and I start it it will die unless I hit the gas, I have to let it warm up for about 10-15 more or it will stall when I try to go anywhere. Even when Its fully warmed up the car will die when I shift into neutral. When I am starting in first gear I have to rev it to about 3k or it will stall too. I have cleaned the throttlebody twice now and it didnt make a difference. Please help!!!!

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

What emissions equipment is still present or removed, is the car still on the factory ECU/tune, and have you adjusted the TPS with a multimeter?

Joshowen

It is straight piped, the guy I bought it from said his mechanic adjusted the tps so it is drivable and im not sure about the tune.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Emissions equipment, in this case, refers to things such as the BAC, emission solenoids and the like.

Joshowen

Sorry im new to all of this, Im not sure about that stuff

satch

iTrader: (1)

To source information you can use the advanced search feature and the FSM. It's all a learning process and you have to start somewhere.

Joshowen

Ok thankyou

satch

iTrader: (1)

You'll want to focus on the BAC, fast idle cam and the neutral switch. The FSM lists the ECU pinouts and it's always good to see how your ECU stacks up against the stated voltage values. You'll want to check the neutral switch ECU pin (1G Green/Black wire), as it should read below 1.5 volts w/key to on (transmission in neutral). Other gears it reads about 12 volts.


Link to FSM: Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals

Joshowen

would it help you if I posted a picture

satch

iTrader: (1)

Not really.

Joshowen

I was thinking it would let you know what emmision systems were still intact

KenH

I'm not sure if this have the cold idle air control valve like the pistons engine? if it does then that what you needs to go after.

Joshowen

satch

iTrader: (1)

Your engine looks like it was raped. All of the colored plugs on the driver's side are for emissions and such. It also looks like the BAC (used to maintain idle) and the Air Bypassl valve has also been removed. And as already stated, if the fast idle cam is not operating properly, then the car will have a rough time starting w/the engine cold. And your secondary plates might be modded as well which can cause operating issues. At this point in time you should have already referred to the FSM to get a handle of your situation. The best section to start by far is the fuel and emissions section and it's not even close.

Joshowen

Am I better off trading to get a different fc, or should I get all that stuff

Joshowen

Im starting school soon and I bought this as my daily

satch

iTrader: (1)

Your car doesn't need every original component for the car to run well but you need to make sure some of the things mentioned are in working order such as the fast idle cam. Also, I will neither tell you to buy or sell something.

Joshowen

Alright awesome ill try my hardest to figure everything out. I appreciate the help

Joshowen

what do you think would make me have to rev the car really high for it to move? or it will stall

Cameron38

iTrader: (2)

with all that missing equipment, could be a combination of things. I know if the vacuum line to my Air Control Valve is disconnected my car will idle like crap. Your's is completely missing!

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

agreed, and i believe that to be the likely scenario.

Joshowen ~

like Satch was saying, you don't need to replace every single component, but the BAC is probably a good idea. it might serve you well during the time you will spend finding/replacing things to search for vacuum leaks that are probably there as well.

Joshowen

I am looking everywhere for a bac and I still havent found one

satch

iTrader: (1)

Did you view the for sale section on this site?