Hesstopher

Hey guys, I was taking my FC around town to get more miles on it. It's been killing me to keep it 4k or lower during the break in, but I've been telling myself it's worth it in the long run.

Anyway, for ~130 miles it's been getting better each drive. Tonight I was driving with a buddy of mine, and the car was strong, smooth and everything I could ask for... Until I made a left turn.

Now, I know it wasn't the first left turn I made-- but there was a specific left turn, I was in second gear at 2500rpm, once the car was straight I got on the gas like I'd done for 130 miles so far. BAAWWWWUUUM... what the heck, there is hardly any power. BOOOM massive backfire.

Now the exhaust is clearly noticeably different (true dual exhaust). We pulled over and did a quick inspection cause the car won't idle and wants to die. The front rotor exhaust is noticably cooler and much less pressure. We limp the car home and check it out on the driveway.

The car struggles to do anything, max speed is 50mph in 3rd gear. At one point I had to cross a big bridge over the habor and the steep grade kept the car at 40mph IN SECOND GEAR.

Once we got home the first rotor exhaust was nearly ambient temperature. I pulled the Trailing plug wire to check for spark and it arked right out to the post as one would expect. The idle is set to 1500 (half bridge port) but hangs around 700-1000 for a few mins but pulses down to 300 and up to 1500 at times... eventually it will die unless you add some throttle.

When starting, the engine isn't smooth-- it wabbles like it's unbalanced. It will still start, but is VERY weak and clearly has something wrong.

My gut is saying a seal has moved or come unseated-- but it's been fine for 130 miles and I've been babying it as suggested. To be honest, I've accidently got it up to 6,000rpm getting onto highways and such while breaking it in. But 99% of the time I keep it under 4,000rpm. I have no way to test for compression. I can tell you, the front rotor exhaust is pushing air out but is estimated around 30% of what the rear rotor is doing while it's running.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

sounds like it let go..

lduley

iTrader: (1)

^yup, time to tear it back apart and hope you didn't ruin the front rotor housing.....which chances are good its now scrap metal

Copeland

iTrader: (42)

Sounds like it let go but go rent a compression tester and see what it looks like.

Hesstopher

the guy that did the rebuild said he'd help me diagnose over the phone (he's 2.5hrs away from my house). He's thinking fuel injector fouling or failure. Thoughts on that?

Also, what is the likelihood he'd warranty his work? I mean, 130mi since he gave it to me isn't much. He said I could start throwing it around and take it to redline immediately, thought I was going to drive it the 2.5hrs on the highway home until I told him I was trailering it home so I could break it in on city streets where the load would be more dynamic. I haven't approached the warranty subject with him yet, I want to wait and see what happens with the troubleshooting.

lduley

iTrader: (1)

start with compression #'s, and if they are low, trailer it back to him, because if you have a dead rotor, driving it will do nothing but harm it and make it cost more to fix and he won't want to warranty it

Hesstopher

Update, I was going to edit my post but since someone replied I'll just keep the string going.

I pulled the front leading plug and spun the engine, no compression sound.
I pulled the rear leading plug and spun the engine with both out, clearly a single compression sound.
I repleace the rear leading plug and spun the engine, no compression sound.
I repleaced the front leading plug and called the mechanic. He is going to cover the repair, told me all I needed to do was get it to him.

Appreciate the feedback guys, looks like the thread was sorta unnecessary.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I only posted that little bit as it reminded me of what happened when mine bit the dust.
Just abruptly..not doing anything at all..FTTT.....WTF?..dun...Crap!