First mods to do?
07-25-15, 04:37 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Bellingham WA
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
First mods to do?
okay so whatre the first mods you should do to a stock fc rx7 youre planning to drift besides the big stuff ie coils, wheels, suspension, more power all that. Chassis weaknesses? Things that really really need strength improvement? Im asking because i just found out why my rear end in clunking so bad on and off throttle and plan to fix that asap. But is there anything else? I beat the **** out of my cars and i like them not to break
thank you!
thank you!
07-25-15, 02:23 PM
#2
Not certain about mods but absolutely all maintenance should be done. Since the car is new to you, ALL fluids should be changed asap. Coolant goes acidic over time and is tough on coolant seals and other components. Synthetic gear oil is called for in the transmission and your future differential. Flush the brake fluid if it looks like swamp water. Fuel filter, some QUALITY fuel system cleaner etc. Get a good platform before modifications.
Seems like a stroll through 2nd Gen Stickyland and you can figure it out yourself Mr. "not an idiot".
07-25-15, 04:43 PM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Bellingham WA
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
07-26-15, 06:39 PM
#6
Rotorhead
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Posts: 9,136
Likes: 0
Received 39 Likes
on
33 Posts
Drifting? OK...
Suspension - Get the cheapest Chinese/Korean set of coilovers that you can find. Be sure not to use anything that is used by professional racers because we all know that they know nothing. Used suspension is the best because it is always in such great shape, and its not like anything needs to match or anything like that. It would be a good idea to ask in the forums which suspension is best so that the 12-year-olds can help you out. If anybody says that the Chinese/Korean stuff is junk, call them a "hater" and rag on them for taking the time to help you.
Wheels - Get big shiny wheels that require uber-expensive low-profile tires. It doesn't matter that they are almost surely heavier than the stock wheels, the point is to go big and shiny. Only noobs use stock-looking wheels.
Power - Rather than simply selling your NA car and buying a good Turbo II car for $3,500 or so, it is much better to spend 2 years and $6,000+ converting your NA to turbo. If anybody asks why you are "wasting" your time and money, tell them that "I want to say that I did all the work myself". That way you can be just like Michael Schumacher, Dario Franchitti, Jeff Gordon, Nigel Mansell, and all the other drivers who did all the work on their cars... er, wait, they hired professionals to work on their cars, never mind. Anyway, be sure to get an aftermarket blowoff valve that makes a cool "pshhhht" noise.
What's weak about the car - The driver is unskilled and the owner is broke. This is directed at 99% of the people on this forum, not just you. It is important to realize this situation so that you can plan accordingly, and above all you need to make sure that you are not delusional in this respect. As for car parts, the OEM radiator's plastic tanks are junk and tend to crack so an all-aluminum radiator (Koyo, Griffin, etc.) is a common replacement item, the driveshaft u-joint tends to lock-up after about 150K miles, and the NA transmission is not really up to the task of supporting an engine much over 200bhp. If you intend to keep the interior in nice shape, replace the brittle 86-88 stereo surround and the heater vents above it with 89-92 parts that are more durable. The two O-rings under the oil filter pedestal tend to crack and cause problems when oil seeps on the heater hose below it, and the pulsation damper should be replaced periodically so that it does not crack and leak fuel on the hot engine. It is not a good idea to completely remove the pulsation damper unless you install an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator with a built-in pulsation damper function (Aeromotive or SX).
On internet forums, other members do not know what you consider "basic stuff" or what you have already done, therefore redundancy should be expected, especially if you ask generalized open questions.
Suspension - Get the cheapest Chinese/Korean set of coilovers that you can find. Be sure not to use anything that is used by professional racers because we all know that they know nothing. Used suspension is the best because it is always in such great shape, and its not like anything needs to match or anything like that. It would be a good idea to ask in the forums which suspension is best so that the 12-year-olds can help you out. If anybody says that the Chinese/Korean stuff is junk, call them a "hater" and rag on them for taking the time to help you.
Wheels - Get big shiny wheels that require uber-expensive low-profile tires. It doesn't matter that they are almost surely heavier than the stock wheels, the point is to go big and shiny. Only noobs use stock-looking wheels.
Power - Rather than simply selling your NA car and buying a good Turbo II car for $3,500 or so, it is much better to spend 2 years and $6,000+ converting your NA to turbo. If anybody asks why you are "wasting" your time and money, tell them that "I want to say that I did all the work myself". That way you can be just like Michael Schumacher, Dario Franchitti, Jeff Gordon, Nigel Mansell, and all the other drivers who did all the work on their cars... er, wait, they hired professionals to work on their cars, never mind. Anyway, be sure to get an aftermarket blowoff valve that makes a cool "pshhhht" noise.
What's weak about the car - The driver is unskilled and the owner is broke. This is directed at 99% of the people on this forum, not just you. It is important to realize this situation so that you can plan accordingly, and above all you need to make sure that you are not delusional in this respect. As for car parts, the OEM radiator's plastic tanks are junk and tend to crack so an all-aluminum radiator (Koyo, Griffin, etc.) is a common replacement item, the driveshaft u-joint tends to lock-up after about 150K miles, and the NA transmission is not really up to the task of supporting an engine much over 200bhp. If you intend to keep the interior in nice shape, replace the brittle 86-88 stereo surround and the heater vents above it with 89-92 parts that are more durable. The two O-rings under the oil filter pedestal tend to crack and cause problems when oil seeps on the heater hose below it, and the pulsation damper should be replaced periodically so that it does not crack and leak fuel on the hot engine. It is not a good idea to completely remove the pulsation damper unless you install an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator with a built-in pulsation damper function (Aeromotive or SX).
On internet forums, other members do not know what you consider "basic stuff" or what you have already done, therefore redundancy should be expected, especially if you ask generalized open questions.
07-26-15, 07:06 PM
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Bellingham WA
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Drifting? OK...
Suspension - Get the cheapest Chinese/Korean set of coilovers that you can find. Be sure not to use anything that is used by professional racers because we all know that they know nothing. Used suspension is the best because it is always in such great shape, and its not like anything needs to match or anything like that. It would be a good idea to ask in the forums which suspension is best so that the 12-year-olds can help you out. If anybody says that the Chinese/Korean stuff is junk, call them a "hater" and rag on them for taking the time to help you.
Wheels - Get big shiny wheels that require uber-expensive low-profile tires. It doesn't matter that they are almost surely heavier than the stock wheels, the point is to go big and shiny. Only noobs use stock-looking wheels.
Power - Rather than simply selling your NA car and buying a good Turbo II car for $3,500 or so, it is much better to spend 2 years and $6,000+ converting your NA to turbo. If anybody asks why you are "wasting" your time and money, tell them that "I want to say that I did all the work myself". That way you can be just like Michael Schumacher, Dario Franchitti, Jeff Gordon, Nigel Mansell, and all the other drivers who did all the work on their cars... er, wait, they hired professionals to work on their cars, never mind. Anyway, be sure to get an aftermarket blowoff valve that makes a cool "pshhhht" noise.
What's weak about the car - The driver is unskilled and the owner is broke. This is directed at 99% of the people on this forum, not just you. It is important to realize this situation so that you can plan accordingly, and above all you need to make sure that you are not delusional in this respect. As for car parts, the OEM radiator's plastic tanks are junk and tend to crack so an all-aluminum radiator (Koyo, Griffin, etc.) is a common replacement item, the driveshaft u-joint tends to lock-up after about 150K miles, and the NA transmission is not really up to the task of supporting an engine much over 200bhp. If you intend to keep the interior in nice shape, replace the brittle 86-88 stereo surround and the heater vents above it with 89-92 parts that are more durable. The two O-rings under the oil filter pedestal tend to crack and cause problems when oil seeps on the heater hose below it, and the pulsation damper should be replaced periodically so that it does not crack and leak fuel on the hot engine. It is not a good idea to completely remove the pulsation damper unless you install an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator with a built-in pulsation damper function (Aeromotive or SX).
On internet forums, other members do not know what you consider "basic stuff" or what you have already done, therefore redundancy should be expected, especially if you ask generalized open questions.
Suspension - Get the cheapest Chinese/Korean set of coilovers that you can find. Be sure not to use anything that is used by professional racers because we all know that they know nothing. Used suspension is the best because it is always in such great shape, and its not like anything needs to match or anything like that. It would be a good idea to ask in the forums which suspension is best so that the 12-year-olds can help you out. If anybody says that the Chinese/Korean stuff is junk, call them a "hater" and rag on them for taking the time to help you.
Wheels - Get big shiny wheels that require uber-expensive low-profile tires. It doesn't matter that they are almost surely heavier than the stock wheels, the point is to go big and shiny. Only noobs use stock-looking wheels.
Power - Rather than simply selling your NA car and buying a good Turbo II car for $3,500 or so, it is much better to spend 2 years and $6,000+ converting your NA to turbo. If anybody asks why you are "wasting" your time and money, tell them that "I want to say that I did all the work myself". That way you can be just like Michael Schumacher, Dario Franchitti, Jeff Gordon, Nigel Mansell, and all the other drivers who did all the work on their cars... er, wait, they hired professionals to work on their cars, never mind. Anyway, be sure to get an aftermarket blowoff valve that makes a cool "pshhhht" noise.
What's weak about the car - The driver is unskilled and the owner is broke. This is directed at 99% of the people on this forum, not just you. It is important to realize this situation so that you can plan accordingly, and above all you need to make sure that you are not delusional in this respect. As for car parts, the OEM radiator's plastic tanks are junk and tend to crack so an all-aluminum radiator (Koyo, Griffin, etc.) is a common replacement item, the driveshaft u-joint tends to lock-up after about 150K miles, and the NA transmission is not really up to the task of supporting an engine much over 200bhp. If you intend to keep the interior in nice shape, replace the brittle 86-88 stereo surround and the heater vents above it with 89-92 parts that are more durable. The two O-rings under the oil filter pedestal tend to crack and cause problems when oil seeps on the heater hose below it, and the pulsation damper should be replaced periodically so that it does not crack and leak fuel on the hot engine. It is not a good idea to completely remove the pulsation damper unless you install an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator with a built-in pulsation damper function (Aeromotive or SX).
On internet forums, other members do not know what you consider "basic stuff" or what you have already done, therefore redundancy should be expected, especially if you ask generalized open questions.
Trending Topics
07-27-15, 07:39 AM
#8
Drifting? OK...
Suspension - Get the cheapest Chinese/Korean set of coilovers that you can find. Be sure not to use anything that is used by professional racers because we all know that they know nothing. Used suspension is the best because it is always in such great shape, and its not like anything needs to match or anything like that. It would be a good idea to ask in the forums which suspension is best so that the 12-year-olds can help you out. If anybody says that the Chinese/Korean stuff is junk, call them a "hater" and rag on them for taking the time to help you.
Wheels - Get big shiny wheels that require uber-expensive low-profile tires. It doesn't matter that they are almost surely heavier than the stock wheels, the point is to go big and shiny. Only noobs use stock-looking wheels.
Power - Rather than simply selling your NA car and buying a good Turbo II car for $3,500 or so, it is much better to spend 2 years and $6,000+ converting your NA to turbo. If anybody asks why you are "wasting" your time and money, tell them that "I want to say that I did all the work myself". That way you can be just like Michael Schumacher, Dario Franchitti, Jeff Gordon, Nigel Mansell, and all the other drivers who did all the work on their cars... er, wait, they hired professionals to work on their cars, never mind. Anyway, be sure to get an aftermarket blowoff valve that makes a cool "pshhhht" noise.
What's weak about the car - The driver is unskilled and the owner is broke. This is directed at 99% of the people on this forum, not just you. It is important to realize this situation so that you can plan accordingly, and above all you need to make sure that you are not delusional in this respect. As for car parts, the OEM radiator's plastic tanks are junk and tend to crack so an all-aluminum radiator (Koyo, Griffin, etc.) is a common replacement item, the driveshaft u-joint tends to lock-up after about 150K miles, and the NA transmission is not really up to the task of supporting an engine much over 200bhp. If you intend to keep the interior in nice shape, replace the brittle 86-88 stereo surround and the heater vents above it with 89-92 parts that are more durable. The two O-rings under the oil filter pedestal tend to crack and cause problems when oil seeps on the heater hose below it, and the pulsation damper should be replaced periodically so that it does not crack and leak fuel on the hot engine. It is not a good idea to completely remove the pulsation damper unless you install an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator with a built-in pulsation damper function (Aeromotive or SX).
On internet forums, other members do not know what you consider "basic stuff" or what you have already done, therefore redundancy should be expected, especially if you ask generalized open questions.
Suspension - Get the cheapest Chinese/Korean set of coilovers that you can find. Be sure not to use anything that is used by professional racers because we all know that they know nothing. Used suspension is the best because it is always in such great shape, and its not like anything needs to match or anything like that. It would be a good idea to ask in the forums which suspension is best so that the 12-year-olds can help you out. If anybody says that the Chinese/Korean stuff is junk, call them a "hater" and rag on them for taking the time to help you.
Wheels - Get big shiny wheels that require uber-expensive low-profile tires. It doesn't matter that they are almost surely heavier than the stock wheels, the point is to go big and shiny. Only noobs use stock-looking wheels.
Power - Rather than simply selling your NA car and buying a good Turbo II car for $3,500 or so, it is much better to spend 2 years and $6,000+ converting your NA to turbo. If anybody asks why you are "wasting" your time and money, tell them that "I want to say that I did all the work myself". That way you can be just like Michael Schumacher, Dario Franchitti, Jeff Gordon, Nigel Mansell, and all the other drivers who did all the work on their cars... er, wait, they hired professionals to work on their cars, never mind. Anyway, be sure to get an aftermarket blowoff valve that makes a cool "pshhhht" noise.
What's weak about the car - The driver is unskilled and the owner is broke. This is directed at 99% of the people on this forum, not just you. It is important to realize this situation so that you can plan accordingly, and above all you need to make sure that you are not delusional in this respect. As for car parts, the OEM radiator's plastic tanks are junk and tend to crack so an all-aluminum radiator (Koyo, Griffin, etc.) is a common replacement item, the driveshaft u-joint tends to lock-up after about 150K miles, and the NA transmission is not really up to the task of supporting an engine much over 200bhp. If you intend to keep the interior in nice shape, replace the brittle 86-88 stereo surround and the heater vents above it with 89-92 parts that are more durable. The two O-rings under the oil filter pedestal tend to crack and cause problems when oil seeps on the heater hose below it, and the pulsation damper should be replaced periodically so that it does not crack and leak fuel on the hot engine. It is not a good idea to completely remove the pulsation damper unless you install an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator with a built-in pulsation damper function (Aeromotive or SX).
On internet forums, other members do not know what you consider "basic stuff" or what you have already done, therefore redundancy should be expected, especially if you ask generalized open questions.
07-31-15, 08:31 PM
#9
First mods to do?
Regardless of the car's intended usage, I always recommend the same three mods for all new owners.
Alternator: FD or Taurus one
Battery: AGM such as Deka Intimidator
Cables: Replacing the 25+ year old stock ones is a very wise idea. I recommend soldering your own using 4awg welding cable. Use Marine Battery Terminals too.
Alternator: FD or Taurus one
Battery: AGM such as Deka Intimidator
Cables: Replacing the 25+ year old stock ones is a very wise idea. I recommend soldering your own using 4awg welding cable. Use Marine Battery Terminals too.
08-01-15, 09:43 PM
#10
Can Post Only in New Member Section
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Largo, FL
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
DTSS bushing replacement/elimination unless you like snap oversteer..
exhaust is a good way to free up the engine. sounds like it wont be turbo for a while. possibly a 2.5" single muffler unit with mated to a decent longtube header.
exhaust is a good way to free up the engine. sounds like it wont be turbo for a while. possibly a 2.5" single muffler unit with mated to a decent longtube header.
09-08-15, 12:45 AM
#12
well delete the emissions crap if it still has all of that on it. Coilovers. I removed the Sway bars. youll want to upgrade radiator to aluminum. Dont be like all the other fools and get 18' rims with massive camber, I have the mesh BBS vert rims, and not only being light theyre small too. rotary engines have no torque whatsoever so spinning big *** rims compared to tiny ones is a HUGE difference IMO. Plus tires are drastically cheaper too
eliminate the rear steer bushings, poly mount everything, remove any weight that the car doesnt need. If this is your first 7 your going to be learning fast that they take great skill and patience to drift with stock components and it being a 50/50 weight car.
eliminate the rear steer bushings, poly mount everything, remove any weight that the car doesnt need. If this is your first 7 your going to be learning fast that they take great skill and patience to drift with stock components and it being a 50/50 weight car.
09-08-15, 01:17 AM
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Bellingham WA
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well delete the emissions crap if it still has all of that on it. Coilovers. I removed the Sway bars. youll want to upgrade radiator to aluminum. Dont be like all the other fools and get 18' rims with massive camber, I have the mesh BBS vert rims, and not only being light theyre small too. rotary engines have no torque whatsoever so spinning big *** rims compared to tiny ones is a HUGE difference IMO. Plus tires are drastically cheaper too eliminate the rear steer bushings, poly mount everything, remove any weight that the car doesnt need. If this is your first 7 your going to be learning fast that they take great skill and patience to drift with stock components and it being a 50/50 weight car.
eliminate the rear steer bushings, poly mount everything, remove any weight that the car doesnt need. If this is your first 7 your going to be learning fast that they take great skill and patience to drift with stock components and it being a 50/50 weight car.
09-17-15, 03:21 PM
#15
Not sure what other emissions to delete. Charcoal canister is gone and the line to vent the gas tank is routed out of my engine bay, deleted omp so running premix gained an idle issue after doing that job, air pump deleted, ps delted, ac deleted. Ive put in the pinion snubber. And i definately need to eliminate rear steer, ive had tires with low tread on the back the whole time ive owned this car and i recently put brand new hankooks on and now my *** feels all sloppy so idk what that about. I have some 15" alloy wheels but i do have to correct you, rotaries make plenty of torque, its just not in the low end as piston engines usually are. And i really dont feel theyre hard to drift? I was able to drift it pretty well for even for having a very shitty lsd. Im running JIC FLT A2. Why remove the sway bars? Ive installed cusco strut braces and man they make a world of difference!
09-17-15, 06:59 PM
#17
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Bellingham WA
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Strut bars are good to have!! sway bars at least for me and all the other FC drifters in Vegas dont run them, if you are mid drift and transfer the sway bars will more or less pre-load the suspension and kinda rocket your car out of the turn and more spin outs will happen. JTP said somewhere in his drift build thread to get rid of them that thread is right here if you want to take a look at it. https://www.rx7club.com/drifting-226...thread-877465/ Do you know if you have the s4 or s5 LSD? also if you can find a 4:30 diff that will help on the low end torque too. And if you think 7's are easy to drift go drift a 240! you will be amazed on how easy they are to get sideways, then again 7's arent hard to drift, but hard to drift well and look good doing it.
09-17-15, 07:01 PM
#18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Bellingham WA
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Theres litterally no write ups on how to adjust a s4 tps. And it only started happening after i delted my omp so im guessing its the gasket i didnt replace and my fuel filter and lines are ****
09-18-15, 12:26 AM
#19
Junioritus
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Vegas Baby
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Regardless of the car's intended usage, I always recommend the same three mods for all new owners.
Alternator: FD or Taurus one
Battery: AGM such as Deka Intimidator
Cables: Replacing the 25+ year old stock ones is a very wise idea. I recommend soldering your own using 4awg welding cable. Use Marine Battery Terminals too.
Alternator: FD or Taurus one
Battery: AGM such as Deka Intimidator
Cables: Replacing the 25+ year old stock ones is a very wise idea. I recommend soldering your own using 4awg welding cable. Use Marine Battery Terminals too.
09-18-15, 01:31 PM
#20
Definitely check all of your gaskets and block off plates. on my block off plates i used a decent amount of RTV to help seal them up so i don't have to worry about them. And the S4 TPS adjust is easy this website has a write up, you just need a multimeter set to read Ohms and follow the instructions, even if you think its the omp Re-adjusting your TPS wouldnt hurt Also if it is the S4 LSD in my opinion that is the best one to have other then the shitty s5 one for drifting at least. Its a clutch type versus a viscous lsd.... there is a write up around here somewhere showing you how to shim the clutch mechanism in the diff to where it locks almost instantly but it perfect for daily driving since you wouldnt get tire hop or crazy gear noises. One way of telling its an LSD is the size of the diff itself, on some of them there is a little flap on the drain nut that says but ive only seen one still left on the case in the many ive seen
Also if it is the S4 LSD in my opinion that is the best one to have other then the shitty s5 one for drifting at least. Its a clutch type versus a viscous lsd.... there is a write up around here somewhere showing you how to shim the clutch mechanism in the diff to where it locks almost instantly but it perfect for daily driving since you wouldnt get tire hop or crazy gear noises. One way of telling its an LSD is the size of the diff itself, on some of them there is a little flap on the drain nut that says but ive only seen one still left on the case in the many ive seen
09-18-15, 01:32 PM
#21
Oh and this website shows and describes how to adjust an s4 tps
Lmk if you need help or get confused. RX-7 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Testing / Adjustment : 13B Etc - Mazda RX-7 Parts And More
Lmk if you need help or get confused. RX-7 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Testing / Adjustment : 13B Etc - Mazda RX-7 Parts And More
09-18-15, 02:20 PM
#22
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Bellingham WA
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh and this website shows and describes how to adjust an s4 tps Lmk if you need help or get confused. RX-7 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Testing / Adjustment : 13B Etc - Mazda RX-7 Parts And More
Lmk if you need help or get confused. RX-7 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Testing / Adjustment : 13B Etc - Mazda RX-7 Parts And More
09-19-15, 09:47 PM
#23
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Bellingham WA
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh and this website shows and describes how to adjust an s4 tps Lmk if you need help or get confused. RX-7 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Testing / Adjustment : 13B Etc - Mazda RX-7 Parts And More
Lmk if you need help or get confused. RX-7 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Testing / Adjustment : 13B Etc - Mazda RX-7 Parts And More
thanks a lot!
09-20-15, 11:19 AM
#24
Its always the little things that you cant figure out or find that **** you off the most, glad i could be of assistance! Post pictures or get some videos of you sliding around
10-12-15, 11:36 AM
#25
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Orem UT
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Drifting? OK...
Suspension - Get the cheapest Chinese/Korean set of coilovers that you can find. Be sure not to use anything that is used by professional racers because we all know that they know nothing. Used suspension is the best because it is always in such great shape, and its not like anything needs to match or anything like that. It would be a good idea to ask in the forums which suspension is best so that the 12-year-olds can help you out. If anybody says that the Chinese/Korean stuff is junk, call them a "hater" and rag on them for taking the time to help you.
Wheels - Get big shiny wheels that require uber-expensive low-profile tires. It doesn't matter that they are almost surely heavier than the stock wheels, the point is to go big and shiny. Only noobs use stock-looking wheels.
Power - Rather than simply selling your NA car and buying a good Turbo II car for $3,500 or so, it is much better to spend 2 years and $6,000+ converting your NA to turbo. If anybody asks why you are "wasting" your time and money, tell them that "I want to say that I did all the work myself". That way you can be just like Michael Schumacher, Dario Franchitti, Jeff Gordon, Nigel Mansell, and all the other drivers who did all the work on their cars... er, wait, they hired professionals to work on their cars, never mind. Anyway, be sure to get an aftermarket blowoff valve that makes a cool "pshhhht" noise.
What's weak about the car - The driver is unskilled and the owner is broke. This is directed at 99% of the people on this forum, not just you. It is important to realize this situation so that you can plan accordingly, and above all you need to make sure that you are not delusional in this respect. As for car parts, the OEM radiator's plastic tanks are junk and tend to crack so an all-aluminum radiator (Koyo, Griffin, etc.) is a common replacement item, the driveshaft u-joint tends to lock-up after about 150K miles, and the NA transmission is not really up to the task of supporting an engine much over 200bhp. If you intend to keep the interior in nice shape, replace the brittle 86-88 stereo surround and the heater vents above it with 89-92 parts that are more durable. The two O-rings under the oil filter pedestal tend to crack and cause problems when oil seeps on the heater hose below it, and the pulsation damper should be replaced periodically so that it does not crack and leak fuel on the hot engine. It is not a good idea to completely remove the pulsation damper unless you install an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator with a built-in pulsation damper function (Aeromotive or SX).
On internet forums, other members do not know what you consider "basic stuff" or what you have already done, therefore redundancy should be expected, especially if you ask generalized open questions.
Suspension - Get the cheapest Chinese/Korean set of coilovers that you can find. Be sure not to use anything that is used by professional racers because we all know that they know nothing. Used suspension is the best because it is always in such great shape, and its not like anything needs to match or anything like that. It would be a good idea to ask in the forums which suspension is best so that the 12-year-olds can help you out. If anybody says that the Chinese/Korean stuff is junk, call them a "hater" and rag on them for taking the time to help you.
Wheels - Get big shiny wheels that require uber-expensive low-profile tires. It doesn't matter that they are almost surely heavier than the stock wheels, the point is to go big and shiny. Only noobs use stock-looking wheels.
Power - Rather than simply selling your NA car and buying a good Turbo II car for $3,500 or so, it is much better to spend 2 years and $6,000+ converting your NA to turbo. If anybody asks why you are "wasting" your time and money, tell them that "I want to say that I did all the work myself". That way you can be just like Michael Schumacher, Dario Franchitti, Jeff Gordon, Nigel Mansell, and all the other drivers who did all the work on their cars... er, wait, they hired professionals to work on their cars, never mind. Anyway, be sure to get an aftermarket blowoff valve that makes a cool "pshhhht" noise.
What's weak about the car - The driver is unskilled and the owner is broke. This is directed at 99% of the people on this forum, not just you. It is important to realize this situation so that you can plan accordingly, and above all you need to make sure that you are not delusional in this respect. As for car parts, the OEM radiator's plastic tanks are junk and tend to crack so an all-aluminum radiator (Koyo, Griffin, etc.) is a common replacement item, the driveshaft u-joint tends to lock-up after about 150K miles, and the NA transmission is not really up to the task of supporting an engine much over 200bhp. If you intend to keep the interior in nice shape, replace the brittle 86-88 stereo surround and the heater vents above it with 89-92 parts that are more durable. The two O-rings under the oil filter pedestal tend to crack and cause problems when oil seeps on the heater hose below it, and the pulsation damper should be replaced periodically so that it does not crack and leak fuel on the hot engine. It is not a good idea to completely remove the pulsation damper unless you install an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator with a built-in pulsation damper function (Aeromotive or SX).
On internet forums, other members do not know what you consider "basic stuff" or what you have already done, therefore redundancy should be expected, especially if you ask generalized open questions.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
demetlaw
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
6
10-02-15 06:22 PM