sonicfire77

Sorry I have a new question, getting back into rx7s and just purchased a 1990 turbo II. It came with full turbo back exhaust and I am in the process of building a new TID due to the old one being torn. Before the TID was in such bad shape, with the full down pipe and 3 inch exhaust I noticed boost was creeping to 11psi I know that anything above a pound or two above normal boost the Ecu can start cutting fuel, motor was rebuilt 10k miles ago so I don't want to damage it by running lean. I was thinking about adding a safc and didn't know if you need a fdc as well or if the safc will take care of the fuel cutoff. Sorry about the newb question and appreciate any help.

AlpineFD

SAFC is very crude for tuning, there are much better technology available now adays at very reasonable prices.

There's no reason at all to use the SAFC any more.

Powerfc or Haltech seem to be the most popular and easiest to "plug & play"

sonicfire77

Thanks for the help, it's been about 10 years since I had my last FC and sometimes is hard to find more recent threads on some of these topics. So with both the powerfc and haltech these are both standalone units? Do they require full harnesses? Thanks fo the help

RX7(613)

iTrader: (9)

FCD and SAFC have different rolls.

FCD is to take out the fuel cut , SAFC to to make fuel adjustments.

I find T2s , once a 3" full exhaust is added and intake. A tune is necessary.

If you keep stock TID and airbox, and port both little wastegate holes in the turbo. You might be able to control the boost and a SAFC will help along 720cc secondary injectors.

That was a great recipe back in early 2000's . ( SAFC2 or even NEO along 720cc secondarie injectors can make the FC reliable "IF" you can control boost creep ) .

If not , best option is to go full standalone , unfortunatly, none are super direct plug n play. power fc requires a few adapters to make it work: APEXi Power FC Adapter Kit (89-91 RX-7) then a full tune , along the actual power FC unit, and upgraded secondaries ( so looking at the 2 grand ball park ) .

Same with Haltech and or the adaptronic , that is available in plug n play ( use your old harness ) .

Question is to ask yourself what the goal is for the car, if to drive it on street and have fun, then port wastegates real good : FC3S Pro v2.0:&nbsp How-To - 1989-1991 Kouki FC3S Turbo Wastegate Porting

and install stock TID with stock airbox .

Cheers and welcome back to the draining world of RXs

sonicfire77

Thanks I really appreciate the input it really helps with my goals for this car. What I really was aiming for was having a very nice Turbo II stock body to pay respects to the wonderful design of this car. I intend on upgrading certain parts for reliability such as the radiator and will eventually get a front mount. As far as the stock airbox, the previous owner broke s3 veal of the bolts when reinstalling it and the TID is rotted out. I was hoping it was possible to make this a 250hp daily driver and still keep it reliable. Previous to my Turbo II I had a 91 GTU with a full S5 Turbo II drive train along with a T04 turbo and a pineapple port and polish. I bought the car from another person who had performed the swap. It wasn't the smoothest running 7 but it had gobs of power, it out down 280hp to the rear wheels with stock intercooler. It had no air fuel control so now that I am a bit older and wiser I wonder how the heck the car made that kinda power un tuned.

On my current car would it be safe if I kept the straight TID, installed a new fuel pump and perhaps bigger injectors and installed a FCD? I am looking to keep the price down this year and focus on making the body shine like new again.

Again thank you so much for the help as I jump back into the fire

RX7(613)

iTrader: (9)

"On my current car would it be safe if I kept the straight TID, installed a new fuel pump and perhaps bigger injectors and installed a FCD? I am looking to keep the price down this year and focus on making the body shine like new again. "

I have never had luck with full racing beat exhaust and intake, the stock ecu cant compensate. ( my car personally back in early 2000s blew due to running the RB DP to exhaust and an intake. ( overboosted and pooh .

If you didnt want to spend tons of money but still keep it in the 200-220 hp range to the wheels ( with the 10 psi ) :

I would:

Get stock TID and airbox
720cc secondary injectors
Rtek piggy back ( Rtek7 ECU Upgrade Detailed Information ) , Fantastic option that was not available a decade ago ( for S5s ) . ( for simplicity and if you keep the TID , stage 1 is very good and cheap ! ) no tuning necessary
Port fully the wastegate
bring to dyno and tune to safe AFR . ( if using Rtek stage 2 or SAFC ) .

The above should not be more than $ 500 to $ 1000 . And will make your car enjoyable and reliable.


( I would go RTEK 1.7 route ( uses stock primarie injectors and 720cc secondaries ), as it has the FCD built in, and the "tune" included , best way to be happy and keep the wallet happy aswell ) .