every thing wrong with my car....
03-28-15, 02:01 PM
#1
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every thing wrong with my car....
hello, all my s4 tii problems:
1) oil leaks!
- two oil leaks
a. leaks from the oil pan bolt that is part of the engine mount. ( some remove the engine, but i saw on a page that u can just put a jack under the transmission near the oil pan and jack the engine up a lil. Then reseal the oil pan.) Will this work? or can i just remove the bolt that goes the oil pan one at a time putting some rtv at the end of the bolt and see it if seals.
b. raw oil builds up by the oil filter pedestal on the 13b stamp. ( i know that is usually is the oil pedestal o rings. checked them and the o rings were good.) any ideas?
2) can keep it cool at my drift events
- at drift events i can only do like 2 laps before my engine will see 200f. i never let my engine go over 200f. thermostat good, my radiator was dirty but cleaned it off today. i dont think it is the water pump. when driving in town i never see over 175f. is that hot for town driving?
3) will not idle. anymore...
-my first drift even i caught some air.
after this wreck my car wouldn't idle. thought it was a massive vacuum leak from the wreck, but my afr is still the same (rich), not lean as you would think with a vacuum leak. the car is still just as power full as when i got it. what else could it be?
want to fix all these problems before i tune for 15psi, cage it, and compete in tx. And as u can probably tell im not much of a mechanic. i just like to race and beat the hell out of my car.... in turn making me become a mechanic.
criticism welcome, any help would be awesome.
here is an edit where u can see my car if u want:
go NODRFT!
thanks,
alex
1) oil leaks!
- two oil leaks
a. leaks from the oil pan bolt that is part of the engine mount. ( some remove the engine, but i saw on a page that u can just put a jack under the transmission near the oil pan and jack the engine up a lil. Then reseal the oil pan.) Will this work? or can i just remove the bolt that goes the oil pan one at a time putting some rtv at the end of the bolt and see it if seals.
b. raw oil builds up by the oil filter pedestal on the 13b stamp. ( i know that is usually is the oil pedestal o rings. checked them and the o rings were good.) any ideas?
2) can keep it cool at my drift events
- at drift events i can only do like 2 laps before my engine will see 200f. i never let my engine go over 200f. thermostat good, my radiator was dirty but cleaned it off today. i dont think it is the water pump. when driving in town i never see over 175f. is that hot for town driving?
3) will not idle. anymore...
-my first drift even i caught some air.
after this wreck my car wouldn't idle. thought it was a massive vacuum leak from the wreck, but my afr is still the same (rich), not lean as you would think with a vacuum leak. the car is still just as power full as when i got it. what else could it be?want to fix all these problems before i tune for 15psi, cage it, and compete in tx. And as u can probably tell im not much of a mechanic. i just like to race and beat the hell out of my car.... in turn making me become a mechanic.
criticism welcome, any help would be awesome.
here is an edit where u can see my car if u want:
thanks,
alex
03-28-15, 03:44 PM
#3
If you went through the hassle of checking your pedestal orings, why didn't you replace them? They can "look" good but still leak.
Oil pan, best thing to do is take it off and RTV (copper or black) the whole thing, many members on here have had trouble with using a gasket, and have had better success with RTV
Oil pan, best thing to do is take it off and RTV (copper or black) the whole thing, many members on here have had trouble with using a gasket, and have had better success with RTV
03-28-15, 04:03 PM
#4
You can reseal the pan with the motor in the car, it is a pain in the ***. What you really want is a Banzai Racing oil pan brace, they work great for eliminating the notorious pan leaks.
Where does everyone get this idea that the cars can't exceed 200*F? The factory s4 aux fan switch doesn't even kick on until 206*F. Where are you getting this temp reading from also? The stock location via engine management, or an aftermarket gauge in the water pump housing? If at the water pump housing, that on average is 10-20* warmer than at the iron because it is pre-radiator, it's the hottest point in the system. If you have already refreshed the cooling system (aluminum radiator, pump, thermostat, fluid), ensure that you have your undertray in place. Is this a FMIC car? If so, be sure to seal up the areas above/below/around the FMIC to the oil cooler, condenser, and radiator. If not, you could be getting poor airflow to the radiator alllllll the way in the back.
Where does everyone get this idea that the cars can't exceed 200*F? The factory s4 aux fan switch doesn't even kick on until 206*F. Where are you getting this temp reading from also? The stock location via engine management, or an aftermarket gauge in the water pump housing? If at the water pump housing, that on average is 10-20* warmer than at the iron because it is pre-radiator, it's the hottest point in the system. If you have already refreshed the cooling system (aluminum radiator, pump, thermostat, fluid), ensure that you have your undertray in place. Is this a FMIC car? If so, be sure to seal up the areas above/below/around the FMIC to the oil cooler, condenser, and radiator. If not, you could be getting poor airflow to the radiator alllllll the way in the back.
03-29-15, 05:17 PM
#5
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Thank you for the responses,
Iduley:
- I didn't replace them because I'm an idiot. Could I put some rtv where they meet to help?
Dc5daniel:
- I am taking the temp reading from right after the water pump in my radiator reservior, also it is not fmic. I'm running the rotary works v mount kit with no ducting as of now. Got some aluminum sheets yesterday. Also my water pump has a small leak coming from the bottom of it, some say it is happening because the water pump is dying. But their is no leak when the engine is running.
Any tips on how to keep the engine from falling in my head when trying to replace the oil pan.
I have all of spring break to replace and fix stuff. I'm ordering banzai oil pan thing, and water pump.
Do they make high flow after market water pumps for the fc? I can find any.
Thanks,
Alex
Iduley:
- I didn't replace them because I'm an idiot. Could I put some rtv where they meet to help?
Dc5daniel:
- I am taking the temp reading from right after the water pump in my radiator reservior, also it is not fmic. I'm running the rotary works v mount kit with no ducting as of now. Got some aluminum sheets yesterday. Also my water pump has a small leak coming from the bottom of it, some say it is happening because the water pump is dying. But their is no leak when the engine is running.
Any tips on how to keep the engine from falling in my head when trying to replace the oil pan.
I have all of spring break to replace and fix stuff. I'm ordering banzai oil pan thing, and water pump.
Do they make high flow after market water pumps for the fc? I can find any.
Thanks,
Alex
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