Al Capwned

I will be pulling both. Decided to change the clutch while I was at it. And I think I found the eyelet. Despite what you said I was looking for a place to bolt a hook into. Not something to just literally hook onto. I will have help with this so don't be worried that I'm some helpless moron that doesn't know what he's getting into.

lduley

iTrader: (1)

choose your words carefully, we all were some helpless morons, and now we carry on the flame and information to the new ones

Al Capwned

OK, hopefully my last questions, is it possible to remove the intake with the carb still attached to it? How bad would it be if I didn't put the thin metal shroud around my exhaust back on? Is the timing on the motor just the distributor, how is it done?

sherff

useing a old oil seal placed on top of the new one wile pressing in then you can put a board or something on top of that and just press down in the center and it works just as good as this
source: read it somewhere, then did it that way on rebuild and it worked without issue

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

yes. pull the throttle and choke cables. pull the MOP linkage and lines. pull the fuel lines. after that, you have 6 bolts/nuts holding the manifold to the block.

at this point most of the insulation material in it has probably crystallized and become useless, so it's of no real consequence other than looking "original".

the distributor gear interfaces with the timing gear in the front cover. that is where the general/base timing comes from - when you set them at TDC (which is actually a few degrees off of TDC if i recall). the rest of the timing, the fine tuning if you will, comes from the distributor's internal mechanisms themselves. there are both a mechanical adjustment and vacuum adjustment that advance the timing based on RPM and load from there.

Al Capwned

So, the intake isn't coming off. I've pulled the four bolts and two nuts and spent the better part of the morning switching between it and the oil pan trying to get it off. The only thing I can think is these hex screws on the intake are related but I haven't found any mention of them anywhere.

Al Capwned

Also is the oil only held on with the 22 bolts underneath? In losing my mind and money with ever tool I break trying to get these things free.

Al Capwned

...aaaaaand they're free.

lduley

iTrader: (1)

oil pans on any car are a biatch. rubber mallet comes in handy while busting 30 year old gaskets

Al Capwned

Hazaa! She's open. Here's the "bad rotors". Wearing where you guys said.

Al Capwned

Well, my inner oil control ring snapped after some shenanigans that I don't want to talk about, now I'm a while out from getting this done.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

sounds like a story for sure. i'm sure you'll share whenever you're ready. for now to get to work! much cleaning, inspecting and learning to do. if you haven't done so already, might i suggest you get a notebook? journal everything. it helps.

Al Capwned

The journal would say one thing.
"Don't let your brother install the small parts."

Al Capwned

Here's the helpless moron part. I haven't gotten the ring yet but it should be here tomorrow. I have like eight hours so in hoping to get it all put together. Is there an "explain like im five" for the timing. I've never done timing on an engine so I don't even know what the initialisms mean.

Al Capwned

So, I keep searching threse problems but it looks like nobody has had the same ones. Now my apex seal corners won't stay seated. Atkins makes this look so easy but when I get them to stay, any mind of movement and they pop out again. The best I cod find is glueing but is that safe to do?

lduley

iTrader: (1)

invest in a tub of GOOD vaseline, you'll thank me later

"like all good things in life, it usually takes alot of vaseline" ~aaroncake

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You need to use Vaseline to hold everything in place. And the good stuff, not the off-brand stuff.

The Atkins video does leave out a few key details. Like pre-lubing. Someone I know assembled an engine without lubing the bearings because the video didn't show it. I had to instruct him to pour oil down the oil filter passage for a few days, while rocking the engine back and forth.

Al Capwned

OK. The video did instruct me to use vaseline on the bearings so I don't know what video he was watching. But I do have some old Walmart brand Vaseline so that could be the issue... 1 1/2 hours wasted, well at least you can't say I'm not persistent.

Al Capwned

They're still not staying. They're stool over the spring but the end is angling itself outside the housing. What next?

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

Krazy glue them. they won't move until they're supposed to.

Al Capwned

That worked. They broke loose a few times and I had to reglue them but worked in the end. Thanks everyone.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

you said they broke loose a few times. i'm just curious, was it actually the Krazy Glue brand or something else? did you clean all the lube off the seals before you glued them?

Al Capwned

Krazy glue and yeah, cleaned them with denatured alcohol. I think they cured funny... Or my method was weird.

Al Capwned

How long should I wait before getting back into the throttle? Other than the time required to keep it from carbon locking, is there a certain amount of miles or so that it's suggested to let everything seat properly.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

experiences and opinions on break-in miles and methods differ, so i can tell you one thing and you can hear something totally different from someone else. no real way to say if one is right, wrong or better.

that said, here goes:
i usually break-in a rebuild for at least 500 miles. unless you're racing (which has it's own break-in method), it really isn't that big of a deal. you figure that's about 8 to 9 hours of driving. for most of the 500, i keep RPM to no more than 4000. toward the end of, i start to increase RPM in increments of 1000. at 500 miles i change the oil and call it good. i use mineral-based oil for break-ins, for some engines i switched to synthetic, others i did not.

if my rebuild included bearings, then i extend it 1000 miles. the first 500 is 4000 RPM and less, the last 500 sees +1000 RPM per 100 miles until done.

i have changed over the years, and i may change again in times to come. however, that is the philosophy/regimen i follow right now. as i said, others may do things differently and i have no reason to find fault with them.

research it some more. whatever path you choose to follow just know one thing. do NOT just fire the engine and go ape-**** with it right of the bat. allow some time for the new seals to run-in a bit and also remember oil changes are cheap.