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Dashlights not coming on in my fc!

Old 05-11-14, 01:07 AM
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Dashlights not coming on in my fc!

My dashlights/illumination does not want to work. All the fuses are good, headlights, taillights, and side markers work. I just bought another dimmer switch and still nothing! Has anyone experienced the same problem or can help me out??
Old 05-11-14, 01:41 AM
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turn the small **** on the switch all the way forward!
Old 05-11-14, 09:46 AM
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It also could be your headlight switch. W/the headlight switch turned to the first position the switch should power the Red/Green wire at the switch and this activates the dash lights. The R/G wire powers the light for the cigarette lighter. So, gain access to the wire which illuminates the lighter bulb and see if it has 12 volts w/the headlight switch turned to the 1st position.
Old 05-11-14, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
It also could be your headlight switch. W/the headlight switch turned to the first position the switch should power the Red/Green wire at the switch and this activates the dash lights. The R/G wire powers the light for the cigarette lighter. So, gain access to the wire which illuminates the lighter bulb and see if it has 12 volts w/the headlight switch turned to the 1st position.
ok thanks I will try that right away
Old 07-14-14, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
It also could be your headlight switch. W/the headlight switch turned to the first position the switch should power the Red/Green wire at the switch and this activates the dash lights. The R/G wire powers the light for the cigarette lighter. So, gain access to the wire which illuminates the lighter bulb and see if it has 12 volts w/the headlight switch turned to the 1st position.
yeah there's no power to it at all, with both switches there's nothing, I put the probe on the actual pin and still nothing
Old 07-14-14, 07:49 PM
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did you check your meter fuse?
Old 07-14-14, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by misterstyx69
did you check your meter fuse?
where is that?
Old 07-14-14, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by misterstyx69
did you check your meter fuse?
lol never mind don't answer that
Old 07-14-14, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by misterstyx69
did you check your meter fuse?
the meter fuse is good
Old 07-14-14, 08:15 PM
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Sometimes people say the meter fuse when they really mean the illumination fuse. If this fuse was good the White/Green wire at the headlight switch would have constant voltage. If it does then the switch is your problem. If this were the case then you could jumper a wire from Red/Black in the headlight plug to the R/G wire and the unlit lights should work.
Old 07-14-14, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
Sometimes people say the meter fuse when they really mean the illumination fuse. If this fuse was good the White/Green wire at the headlight switch would have constant voltage. If it does then the switch is your problem. If this were the case then you could jumper a wire from Red/Black in the headlight plug to the R/G wire and the unlit lights should work.
I don't have my Haynes book on me right now so I can't look, what does the b/r wire power?
Old 07-14-14, 08:29 PM
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Red/Black powers the tail lights.
Old 07-14-14, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
Sometimes people say the meter fuse when they really mean the illumination fuse. If this fuse was good the White/Green wire at the headlight switch would have constant voltage. If it does then the switch is your problem. If this were the case then you could jumper a wire from Red/Black in the headlight plug to the R/G wire and the unlit lights should work.
the black and red has constant power as well
Old 07-14-14, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by larsvos
the black and red has constant power as well
It's Red/Black and not Black/Red. Secondly, constant power means no key and nothing turned on just like a battery has power all the time. If the R/B wire had constant voltage then your tails would always be on.

Last edited by satch; 07-14-14 at 08:52 PM.
Old 07-14-14, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
It's Red/Black and not Black/Red. Secondly, constant power means no key and nothing turned on just like a battery has power all the time. If the R/B wire had constant voltage then your tails would always be on.
sorry I got the b/r and r/bmixed up
Old 07-14-14, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
It's Red/Black and not Black/Red. Secondly, constant power means no key and nothing turned on just like a battery has power all the time. If the R/B wire had constant voltage then your tails would always be on.
but if I use a jumper it won't short anything?
Old 07-15-14, 12:38 AM
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It shouldn't.
Old 07-15-14, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
It shouldn't.
well it did.
Old 07-15-14, 08:50 PM
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What did?
Old 07-17-14, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
What did?
it shorted and blew the illum. fuse
Old 07-17-14, 04:32 PM
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Then the Red/Black wire could be shorting to ground. W/the meter set to continuity you would place one meter lead to the R/B wire and the other meter lead to a ground source and if it rings out then the wire is grounding out and needs to be repaired.
Old 07-17-14, 07:49 PM
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Talking

Originally Posted by satch
Then the Red/Black wire could be shorting to ground. W/the meter set to continuity you would place one meter lead to the R/B wire and the other meter lead to a ground source and if it rings out then the wire is grounding out and needs to be repaired.
have you done this before?
Old 07-17-14, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
Then the Red/Black wire could be shorting to ground. W/the meter set to continuity you would place one meter lead to the R/B wire and the other meter lead to a ground source and if it rings out then the wire is grounding out and needs to be repaired.
but I will try that when i get the chance, thanks for the help.
Old 07-17-14, 08:47 PM
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Checking for a short to ground? Yes, and it's a rather simple manner for determining if a wire is grounded out or not. This is a routine use of the meter and has been used in the electronics business since for many decades. Just use no key and don't turn on the switch when performing a continuity test.

On a side note I had the same problem as you had twenty years ago and the simple jumpering cured my problem. Obviously my problem originated within the switch while yours originated outside of the switch. We know this since your fuse blew when voltage was placed on the wire.
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