defcrx7

Trying to find a write up on exactly what I need and can't find one. I'm going to be ordering a master and slave cylinder from mazdatrix since one of the two went bad and I'm just confused on what lines are needed/which lines I should get. I want to replace everything since the car sat for about 10 years. Just did the clutch about 2 weeks ago drove it for two weeks and now I don't have any pressure in the pedal.

The one weird thing was that I could hear some weird kinda screeching noise when getting all the way home in second gear... Hoping it's not the throwout bearing?

Any help is appreciated.Thanks

TomU

iTrader: (11)

The FSM has a pretty good write up. It's not that hard if you have some mechanical ability. You should also replace the hose that feeds the MC from the reservoir and the hose that feeds the slave from the MC. This one is typically upgraded to SS braided.

If you "did your clutch" 2 weeks ago, did you fill the reservoir so it filled the clutch compartment. There's a divider that separates the clutch from the brake fluid and you have to fill the brake compartment sufficient to spill over into the clutch compartment. It then needs to also be bleed at the slave cylinder.

Running w/o clutch fluid may cause some noises

defcrx7

Hmm. I'm not sure if I did. I changed out clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, pilot and throwout bearing. I'll have to check those fluids when I get home. Now when the car is off and clutch is all the way up should I be able to still shift in gears without pressing in the clutch at all?

thanks for the info. This is my first car and have spent the last year getting it to where it is after sitting for 10 years so it's been a big learning experience and I'm def still a noob... haha

TomU

iTrader: (11)

If you didn't break the fluid line to the slave, that may not be the problem, but you should check just to make sure.

Believe you should be able to engage the gears w/o the clutch engaged when turned off, but not completely sure (don't think I ever tried to do that).

The MC and slave with hoses is $200-ish. I went ahead and replaced mine when I did my clutch as cheap insurance.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

The thing about replacing the clutch after 10 years is that now it exerts more pressure on the Hydraulics of the Clutch system..so YA your finding that out now and it will make fluid bypass the seals in the slave or master so when you press the pedal it will feels soft or just fail all together and sink to the floor.
I am not sure where Tom is getting his prices but you can get whole new master/slave/hose at Rock Auto for less than Half of what he quoted.

The squeal could be a badly manufactured throw out bearing.
Been there/done that..I had one last 100 miles..and it crapped out on me and wore the face right off it.

TomU

iTrader: (11)

Was quoting OEM.

If you're pulling the trans (which it sounds like you need to do) and if you have a '93, you should replace the clutch fork if you haven't already. The early ones are weak and supposedly break. Believe there was a recall, so it may have been replaced, but it's cheap insurance to get the upgraded fork so you know you've got it.

defcrx7

Thanks guys. It's a 89 n/a. Just order slave, master and the lines off of mazdatrix. Just want to make sure I'm getting solid parts don't wanna cheap out on this thing. It's basically just a restoration project I don't plan on racing it or anything