Mazdav

So I guess this is the beginning of my rotary troubles, and before I go work out in the rain I'd like to narrow down what's going on. My car didn't start last night and I assumed it flooded because of a strong fuel smell, so I took the plugs out and blew the crap out, and put in new plugs, yet again wouldn't fire and smelled like fuel. I know there's spark because the wires arched on the body, and I obviously assume there's fuel ( possibly too much) now I'm just wondering why it won't fire, this morning I gave her a try and it just sounded like it had no will to start, almost like there was no compression or spark, still smelled like fuel, any ideas on what I should look for ?

ArmAnirx7

iTrader: (24)

Info from Rotaryresurrection.com

There are a few different ways to go about this, depending on which model and year of car you have. The tried and true method entails the following:

1)
remove BOTH EGI fuses closest to engine in fusebox
2)remove plugwires and lower plugs
3)crank the car over 5-10 seconds with plugs out to expel extra fuel
4)Obtain some ATF(automatic trans. Fluid) or motor oil along with a method to inject it to the lower plugholes of both rotors. This will mix with the excess fuel, rebuild compression momentarily, and help the car restart. I use a hand oil pump available at autozone, which fits in a gallon jug. You can also use a small oil can with a vacuum hose, or a funnel with a long hose. Be sure to get enough in the first time, you don't want to have to keep repeating this step. You cannot really put too much atf in, as you cant hydrolock a rotary. The excess will just get shot out the exhaust port. About 1/2 cup per rotor should be more than enough.
5)Dry plugs and clean them with a wire brush, or replace them if you feel they're heavily fouled, or if this procedure doesnt work the first time.
6)Replace plugs and wires.
7)
Replace fuses.
8)Crank car to start. Floor the gas when doing so. Expect a lot of smoke. Hold the rpm's up a bit for the first minute or so until it smooths out and runs more normally.

This is the hard way to do the job, but it will always work. Depending on your year and model it may be possible to use an easier method.

satch

iTrader: (1)

And the year of the car is?

Mazdav

88

satch

iTrader: (1)

You could try 1 to 2 seconds of starter fluid to see if the car will at least start for a few seconds or not. If it does start briefly then the ignition is likely not an issue among other things.

Mazdav

I'm getting spark, tested all wires with plugs grounded to the body, so unless the engine somehow got ungrounded I'm positive I have spark, I can't hear my fuel pump priming anymore , my egi fuse and main relay are both in working order, which leads me to believe I have a bad fuel pump now. Possibly from trying to turn it over for so long so many times. I have a Subaru wrx oem fuel pump I'm going to try to put in and see if this ends my issue. Too bad the cap to the tank is held in with screws that are shot... Self tapers later I guess

satch

iTrader: (1)

The pump can be turned on just w/the key to on if you jump the fuel check connector otherwise the pump does not turn on just w/key to on (engine off). And you could also just test the Blue wire at the circuit opening relay under the dash just to the right of the steering wheel as it controls power to the fuel pump.