Buying an SE, need some advice.
06-20-16, 05:27 PM
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Buying an SE, need some advice.
Greetings and salutations fellow members!
I am a brand new member as of today, although have been a frequent guest visitor for a number of years to get bits and pieces of information here and there. I've finally decided to register to ask a question of my own.
I am planning to go see and hopefully purchase a 1984 GSL-SE, with 92K original miles on it. The guy who's selling it is not the original owner, as he mentionned that he owned it for the last 8 years. Here's the kicker. The car was never started for those 8 years (and probably more...). It spent the last 7 sitting in the garage, and the last year tarped up outside on the pavement. The engine is most likely carbon locked, so I need the procedure to at least try and move it by hand first. Thus the question, besides the breaker bar, what do I need (what size socket)? And also, if I'm facing the engine, does it need to be turned clockwise or counter? I believe it's counter, but do correct me.
FINALLY, any other pieces of wisdom you might throw at me as of what to check for? He says the body is very solid rust wise, any particular places I should pay more attention to? I think I've got it all now, I'll edit if something else comes to mind. Many thanks in advance to anyone who might pitch in on this!
Humbly,
DouLeX.
I am a brand new member as of today, although have been a frequent guest visitor for a number of years to get bits and pieces of information here and there. I've finally decided to register to ask a question of my own.
I am planning to go see and hopefully purchase a 1984 GSL-SE, with 92K original miles on it. The guy who's selling it is not the original owner, as he mentionned that he owned it for the last 8 years. Here's the kicker. The car was never started for those 8 years (and probably more...). It spent the last 7 sitting in the garage, and the last year tarped up outside on the pavement. The engine is most likely carbon locked, so I need the procedure to at least try and move it by hand first. Thus the question, besides the breaker bar, what do I need (what size socket)? And also, if I'm facing the engine, does it need to be turned clockwise or counter? I believe it's counter, but do correct me.
FINALLY, any other pieces of wisdom you might throw at me as of what to check for? He says the body is very solid rust wise, any particular places I should pay more attention to? I think I've got it all now, I'll edit if something else comes to mind. Many thanks in advance to anyone who might pitch in on this!
Humbly,
DouLeX.
06-20-16, 10:14 PM
#2
Your '84
Engine spins clockwise while you are looking at the windshield. Much info is available on first starts, but one thing frequently overlooked is that you need a minimum of 200+ RPM to get an accurate compression test. Strong battery and a good 2KW starter are minimums. Of course, don't try that till you've done the following things.
As far as other basics, may seem obvious but check the oil (level, does it look like a milkshake, etc...); coolant (color?, level?); fuel and filters. If it's been sitting I would drain the tank and replace all the filters.
After checking the fluids, pull the plugs, squirt a couple of pints of oil into each housing and do some hand cranking. Listen for the chh; chh; chh;chh; chh; chh through the plug holes for a simple compression check.
Many other things to do, but those are the starters for me.
Best of luck!
LQ
As far as other basics, may seem obvious but check the oil (level, does it look like a milkshake, etc...); coolant (color?, level?); fuel and filters. If it's been sitting I would drain the tank and replace all the filters.
After checking the fluids, pull the plugs, squirt a couple of pints of oil into each housing and do some hand cranking. Listen for the chh; chh; chh;chh; chh; chh through the plug holes for a simple compression check.
Many other things to do, but those are the starters for me.
Best of luck!
LQ
06-22-16, 04:55 PM
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Thanks for the input LQ, I'll keep em in mind. I've seen SeaFoam mentionned quite a lot when it comes to freeing up a carbon locked engine. By pure luck, I've found a can kicking around in the garage. Anyone know if it takes some kind of specific SeaFoam or just the general stuff works? The one I found is Automotive/Marine. Hell, you can add that stuff pretty much everywhere by what's written on the can.
DouLeX.
DouLeX.
06-22-16, 07:37 PM
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If the engine doesn't spin when you try to do so either by hand or a breaker bar and 19mm on the front eccentric pulley bolt then do not force it.
You would just make things worse and are looking at a rebuild anyways if it doesn't move so no sense in breaking more than what you need to replace.
You would just make things worse and are looking at a rebuild anyways if it doesn't move so no sense in breaking more than what you need to replace.
06-22-16, 08:45 PM
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If the engine doesn't spin when you try to do so either by hand or a breaker bar and 19mm on the front eccentric pulley bolt then do not force it.
You would just make things worse and are looking at a rebuild anyways if it doesn't move so no sense in breaking more than what you need to replace.
You would just make things worse and are looking at a rebuild anyways if it doesn't move so no sense in breaking more than what you need to replace.
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