Anyone live near Vacaville NorCal?
04-17-15, 01:46 AM
#1
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Anyone live near Vacaville NorCal?
Diving into my first rotary build and wondering if there was anyone in the area that could point me in the right direction any advice is appreciated, I still need to identify my motor lol
04-17-15, 07:29 AM
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I don't need to live near you to tell you that you are in the right place!
Post pics of your engine,year and series of car.
You'll get info.
Post pics of your engine,year and series of car.
You'll get info.
04-17-15, 10:45 AM
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I don't know if I'm allowed to post pictures yet seeing as I'm new but the motor says its a 13b its just the motor it's going in my superbeetle it has a carb on it and from what I can see I think the carb is from a rx5?? I have it all tore down now just need to identify it so I can get the proper gaskets and such
04-18-15, 06:53 AM
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Yep..you can post pics..just don't post any ADS!!!
..13b..there ya go..it's a 13b..(not an old 12A)..
Now for what year is up for debate.The front cover will tell you and pics will really give it away.
Also,carbed or EFI will narrow it down.
..13b..there ya go..it's a 13b..(not an old 12A)..
Now for what year is up for debate.The front cover will tell you and pics will really give it away.
Also,carbed or EFI will narrow it down.
04-18-15, 10:50 AM
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Every time i try to post a pic it crashes my phone (iPhone 6) but it is carb but not a Nikki carb,it looks stock but it doesn't have that triangle hole in the top like all the pics I've seen and there are these weird things that thread into the exhaust ports from the bottom of the rotor housings, I just wish I knew what year and type so I can order the proper gasket kit for it ( thinking about ra kit ) and what i can block off ( vaccume lines big things that go into the exhaust and into the coolant passageway) I hope some of this helps,oh and on the back plate it says 3b stamped into the steel
04-18-15, 01:51 PM
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Every time i try to post a pic it crashes my phone (iPhone 6) but it is carb but not a Nikki carb,it looks stock but it doesn't have that triangle hole in the top like all the pics I've seen and there are these weird things that thread into the exhaust ports from the bottom of the rotor housings, I just wish I knew what year and type so I can order the proper gasket kit for it ( thinking about ra kit ) and what i can block off ( vaccume lines big things that go into the exhaust and into the coolant passageway) I hope some of this helps,oh and on the back plate it says 3b stamped into the steel
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04-18-15, 03:07 PM
#8
Jeff20B or Siraniko would probably be able to help narrow it down to the fingerprints and DNA of the guys who took the parts off the line. they are THAT good with old school engines. the 3B code is helpful. i will try to get one of them to look at this thread for you.
from what i've seen, you have an old school 13B (1974-78). i'm pretty sure that's a Hitachi carburetor and with those funky exhaust ports (i forget what those are - EGR???, i just remember having block-off nozzle placed in them back in the day), it's pretty much a giveaway.
from what i've seen, you have an old school 13B (1974-78). i'm pretty sure that's a Hitachi carburetor and with those funky exhaust ports (i forget what those are - EGR???, i just remember having block-off nozzle placed in them back in the day), it's pretty much a giveaway.
04-18-15, 06:46 PM
#9
I see a hitachi carb but its best for you to show pic of the intake manifold as well as the ports on the center plate we can say whether its a 74 or 76. Im ona dinosaur 4yr old s3 phone so it takes forever to view pix and it freezes most of the time. Im too cheap to get an upgrade
Last edited by Siraniko; 04-18-15 at 07:11 PM.
04-18-15, 08:07 PM
#10
74-75 engine. You can tell by the "3B" you see on the rear iron. I've had a few of these.
Hey Wackyracer, see the cool OMP lines that go behind the waterpump? They hug the front iron. I have two sets like these with one set having the weird extra connections at the OMP like his.
Hey Wackyracer, see the cool OMP lines that go behind the waterpump? They hug the front iron. I have two sets like these with one set having the weird extra connections at the OMP like his.
Last edited by Jeff20B; 04-18-15 at 08:10 PM.
04-18-15, 08:36 PM
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I see a hitachi carb but its best for you to show pic of the intake manifold as well as the ports on the center plate we can say whether its a 74 or 76. Im ona dinosaur 4yr old s3 phone so it takes forever to view pix and it freezes most of the time. Im too cheap to get an upgrade
04-18-15, 08:54 PM
#12
74-75 engine. You can tell by the "3B" you see on the rear iron. I've had a few of these.
Hey Wackyracer, see the cool OMP lines that go behind the waterpump? They hug the front iron. I have two sets like these with one set having the weird extra connections at the OMP like his.
Hey Wackyracer, see the cool OMP lines that go behind the waterpump? They hug the front iron. I have two sets like these with one set having the weird extra connections at the OMP like his.
Good call on the # jeff. I forget then #s as i always switch the 12-a plates with tall ports when I rebuilt my motors. And yes, i havent seen those OMP lines in ages as i collected so many from 79-85. You should save them in case you decide to restore an old school to factory specs.
04-18-15, 09:07 PM
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04-18-15, 09:14 PM
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*bug sorry going in the back of a 700 lb superbeetle, thinking of race porting it I have access to a machine shop and normally build Harley motors so I know I could build a rotary just need to know what the important parts are lol and what can be ditched
04-18-15, 11:40 PM
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Oh nice
, so do I need to open up the exhaust at all? I kind of want it to be a mean motor lol I don't have to worry about emissions, I was thinking a good street port or race port but I don't want to loose idle or low end, not bad for 100 bucks huh? And can I put smooth sleeves in the exhaust? Or do I have to keep those nippley things in there? Thank you for all your help this is making my night
04-19-15, 10:06 AM
#18
see? what did i tell you about Jeff and Siraniko? 
anyway, just an opinion since you said "street port or race port" ... but given what you have, you should probably keep things mild. once you go WILD you can't go back. it would be a shame to have such a sweet engine and end up not enjoying it.
Pineapple has quite a variety of exhaust templates. there should be one to fit your needs (i think the EP2A should do it, but double-check on that). as for the port sleeves, as i alluded to earlier, people just blocked them off. i have no idea if Racing Beat still sell the block off nozzles any more, but even if they don't, you should be able to find something suitable. that said, you should be able to use SE or T2 sleeves, IF you can find them.
anyway, just an opinion since you said "street port or race port" ... but given what you have, you should probably keep things mild. once you go WILD you can't go back. it would be a shame to have such a sweet engine and end up not enjoying it.
Pineapple has quite a variety of exhaust templates. there should be one to fit your needs (i think the EP2A should do it, but double-check on that). as for the port sleeves, as i alluded to earlier, people just blocked them off. i have no idea if Racing Beat still sell the block off nozzles any more, but even if they don't, you should be able to find something suitable. that said, you should be able to use SE or T2 sleeves, IF you can find them.
04-19-15, 12:36 PM
#19
You can grind those nippley things all the way down to the sleeve surface. Again, what I do on 74 rotor housings.
And yes keep the stock 74 spec ports. you'll have excellent midrange while retaining what low end torque this size of port has, which is already pretty great!
There is something else you can do with those nippley things. If you can remove them and fill with weld, it keeps exhaust heat from pulsing up through the intermediate plate. Racing Beat used to sell a bolt kit for these but have since stopped. so I had to make my own with a set of studs cut and ground down until they could be tapped inside. Then secured with weld and smoothed down. The result are great. I also fill the ACV port in with quicksteel just to get rid of the open port up where the intake manifold bolts on. Then you're free to add some 20mm freeze plugs to the coolant ports for a really cool manifold to make more power! It also keeps coolant in the engine whenever you pull the intake manifold.
diabolical1, because these are 74-75 rotor housings, you can't port them very big. You can only go out to the edge of the sleeves. Or you can remove the sleeves on this year but I wouldn't. Keeping the sleeves acts like a heat shield inside the aluminum exhaust ports. Aluminum transfers heat really well, so I'd keep the sleeves.
And yes keep the stock 74 spec ports. you'll have excellent midrange while retaining what low end torque this size of port has, which is already pretty great!
There is something else you can do with those nippley things. If you can remove them and fill with weld, it keeps exhaust heat from pulsing up through the intermediate plate. Racing Beat used to sell a bolt kit for these but have since stopped. so I had to make my own with a set of studs cut and ground down until they could be tapped inside. Then secured with weld and smoothed down. The result are great. I also fill the ACV port in with quicksteel just to get rid of the open port up where the intake manifold bolts on. Then you're free to add some 20mm freeze plugs to the coolant ports for a really cool manifold to make more power! It also keeps coolant in the engine whenever you pull the intake manifold.
diabolical1, because these are 74-75 rotor housings, you can't port them very big. You can only go out to the edge of the sleeves. Or you can remove the sleeves on this year but I wouldn't. Keeping the sleeves acts like a heat shield inside the aluminum exhaust ports. Aluminum transfers heat really well, so I'd keep the sleeves.
Last edited by Jeff20B; 04-19-15 at 12:42 PM.
04-19-15, 12:55 PM
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You can grind those nippley things all the way down to the sleeve surface. Again, what I do on 74 rotor housings.
And yes keep the stock 74 spec ports. you'll have excellent midrange while retaining what low end torque this size of port has, which is already pretty great!
There is something else you can do with those nippley things. If you can remove them and fill with weld, it keeps exhaust heat from pulsing up through the intermediate plate. Racing Beat used to sell a bolt kit for these but have since stopped. so I had to make my own with a set of studs cut and ground down until they could be tapped inside. Then secured with weld and smoothed down. The result are great. I also fill the ACV port in with quicksteel just to get rid of the open port up where the intake manifold bolts on. Then you're free to add some 20mm freeze plugs to the coolant ports for a really cool manifold to make more power! It also keeps coolant in the engine whenever you pull the intake manifold.
diabolical1, because these are 74-75 rotor housings, you can't port them very big. You can only go out to the edge of the sleeves. Or you can remove the sleeves on this year but I wouldn't. Keeping the sleeves acts like a heat shield inside the aluminum exhaust ports. Aluminum transfers heat really well, so I'd keep the sleeves.
And yes keep the stock 74 spec ports. you'll have excellent midrange while retaining what low end torque this size of port has, which is already pretty great!
There is something else you can do with those nippley things. If you can remove them and fill with weld, it keeps exhaust heat from pulsing up through the intermediate plate. Racing Beat used to sell a bolt kit for these but have since stopped. so I had to make my own with a set of studs cut and ground down until they could be tapped inside. Then secured with weld and smoothed down. The result are great. I also fill the ACV port in with quicksteel just to get rid of the open port up where the intake manifold bolts on. Then you're free to add some 20mm freeze plugs to the coolant ports for a really cool manifold to make more power! It also keeps coolant in the engine whenever you pull the intake manifold.
diabolical1, because these are 74-75 rotor housings, you can't port them very big. You can only go out to the edge of the sleeves. Or you can remove the sleeves on this year but I wouldn't. Keeping the sleeves acts like a heat shield inside the aluminum exhaust ports. Aluminum transfers heat really well, so I'd keep the sleeves.
Ok so don't port out anything? And I can weld those smooth, acv port? Is that the one below the intake on the center iron? And as far as the oil metering and the oil pressure and all the sensors that tap into the motor can those go? Id really like to find a manual on this motor, one more thing what rebuild kit would be best for this kind of motor? I may put a carb hat and small turbo on later (maybe) and I'm ditching the old carb and thermal thing (if anyone wants it lol) they can have it so I'll run a webber I'm thinking, I really like mikunis on my Harley but can't find any for rotary
04-19-15, 01:28 PM
#21
Cldamman ~
this is just a friendly reminder, but try to refrain from making references to parts - whether wanted, for sale, for trade, giving away or whatever - in this forum. now, i'm only posting this publicly because i just PM'd you about the Hitachi and it didn't seem right for me to erase that part of your post (which is what i usually do) after potentially gaining something from it. however, as a general rule, that sort of thing is frowned on in this particular forum - very slippery slope.
this is just a friendly reminder, but try to refrain from making references to parts - whether wanted, for sale, for trade, giving away or whatever - in this forum. now, i'm only posting this publicly because i just PM'd you about the Hitachi and it didn't seem right for me to erase that part of your post (which is what i usually do) after potentially gaining something from it. however, as a general rule, that sort of thing is frowned on in this particular forum - very slippery slope.
04-19-15, 02:08 PM
#22
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Cldamman ~
this is just a friendly reminder, but try to refrain from making references to parts - whether wanted, for sale, for trade, giving away or whatever - in this forum. now, i'm only posting this publicly because i just PM'd you about the Hitachi and it didn't seem right for me to erase that part of your post (which is what i usually do) after potentially gaining something from it. however, as a general rule, that sort of thing is frowned on in this particular forum - very slippery slope.
this is just a friendly reminder, but try to refrain from making references to parts - whether wanted, for sale, for trade, giving away or whatever - in this forum. now, i'm only posting this publicly because i just PM'd you about the Hitachi and it didn't seem right for me to erase that part of your post (which is what i usually do) after potentially gaining something from it. however, as a general rule, that sort of thing is frowned on in this particular forum - very slippery slope.
04-19-15, 07:27 PM
#23
If i were you, go for a big strretport for top end and weber 48 IDA.. And if all you care is low to mid, use use 38-40 mm venturies. But if you want to stick with stock carb, use a nikki carb (redrill and tap the manifold since a nikki as not as wide as a hitachu)
04-20-15, 07:13 PM
#24
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You can grind those nippley things all the way down to the sleeve surface. Again, what I do on 74 rotor housings.
And yes keep the stock 74 spec ports. you'll have excellent midrange while retaining what low end torque this size of port has, which is already pretty great!
There is something else you can do with those nippley things. If you can remove them and fill with weld, it keeps exhaust heat from pulsing up through the intermediate plate. Racing Beat used to sell a bolt kit for these but have since stopped. so I had to make my own with a set of studs cut and ground down until they could be tapped inside. Then secured with weld and smoothed down. The result are great. I also fill the ACV port in with quicksteel just to get rid of the open port up where the intake manifold bolts on. Then you're free to add some 20mm freeze plugs to the coolant ports for a really cool manifold to make more power! It also keeps coolant in the engine whenever you pull the intake manifold.
diabolical1, because these are 74-75 rotor housings, you can't port them very big. You can only go out to the edge of the sleeves. Or you can remove the sleeves on this year but I wouldn't. Keeping the sleeves acts like a heat shield inside the aluminum exhaust ports. Aluminum transfers heat really well, so I'd keep the sleeves.
And yes keep the stock 74 spec ports. you'll have excellent midrange while retaining what low end torque this size of port has, which is already pretty great!
There is something else you can do with those nippley things. If you can remove them and fill with weld, it keeps exhaust heat from pulsing up through the intermediate plate. Racing Beat used to sell a bolt kit for these but have since stopped. so I had to make my own with a set of studs cut and ground down until they could be tapped inside. Then secured with weld and smoothed down. The result are great. I also fill the ACV port in with quicksteel just to get rid of the open port up where the intake manifold bolts on. Then you're free to add some 20mm freeze plugs to the coolant ports for a really cool manifold to make more power! It also keeps coolant in the engine whenever you pull the intake manifold.
diabolical1, because these are 74-75 rotor housings, you can't port them very big. You can only go out to the edge of the sleeves. Or you can remove the sleeves on this year but I wouldn't. Keeping the sleeves acts like a heat shield inside the aluminum exhaust ports. Aluminum transfers heat really well, so I'd keep the sleeves.
04-21-15, 12:44 PM
#25
from top to bottom:
1. ACV port
2. EGR passage (may have been a California-model-thing, which i guess makes sense since you're in CA, but i "think" i have seen some old school engines with this)
3. coolant temperature sender port and oil pressure sender port
1. ACV port
2. EGR passage (may have been a California-model-thing, which i guess makes sense since you're in CA, but i "think" i have seen some old school engines with this)
3. coolant temperature sender port and oil pressure sender port