grzr

I just bought the car and the previous owner told me of the high idling issue, so I've been messing around with the TPS. I did the resistance adjustment, got it to 1ohm. Mines' range was 1 to 4.6, so it's still within limits. But the idle wont go lower than 1200rpm. I adjusted the throttle stop screw a bit but no progress. I dont know where the BAC valve adjust is, I was using the FC3S How To and I believe thats for the TII. I have a RHD JDM S4 so its not the same, im having trouble locating accurate info/ diagrams on the shop manual. Any advice is appreciated.

I also attached a couple pics of random connectors that aren't connected and I dont know what or where they go.

AAND i attached a couple shots of my ride as well just cuz!

satch

iTrader: (1)

In your last pic what are the wire colors to the disconnected plug? You don't appear to have a pressure sensor that would be located right near the unplugged connector. If the wire colors are Brown/White, Black/White, Brown/Red and a Black wire then the plug is for that sensor (the Black is a ground but on early S4's the ground is a Brown wire with a stripe). And if you do not have the sensor there would be a vacuum hose which would need to be capped.

Also, when the engine is idling what would happen if you press upwards on the front throttle linkage? Does the idle change as in drop perhaps or just stays the same?

Is there much slack in the throttle cable as there should?

Does the car still idle at a high speed after the car has been driven for at least 15 to 20 minutes?

The BAC is only adjustable on turbo cars.

grzr

The colors for the wires on the pic are white/blue, white/red, white/black, black/yellow. I couldn't find the vacuum line you talked about, but I tried to take this picture of the general area.


Yeah the throttle linkage was a little loose, the threads on that stud with the nut for the lever was cross threaded, so the nut wouldn't tighten. I took off the lock washer and put the nut back on to see if I could catch more thread and it worked but I will repair the threads later. When I had the ohm meter on the connector and I would push up on the lever, the ohms would go down. I think about 4ohms.

Im not sure what the slack should be for the cable. Just for clarification, the cable your talking about is on the back of the engine near the firewall right?

I don't know if the car idles high after driving it, I can't drive it b.c my right foot is in a cast :/

AAANd here are more pictures of more random connectors agaiiin, if anyone has some good advise please let me know. I'll be looking around in the diagrams to try to figure it out as well, its my first RX7 so im not used to its components and such.
Green connector near intake:


Close up:


I tried to get a better shot and I found this yellow fker:


Better shot of the connectors near the fuse box:



I know one of those is the diagnostic port but I'm not sure which.

grzr

Quick question, is there some kind of series of operations write ups in the manuals? Or am I just crazy? Something like how things operate in order? Maybe lol?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The Green plugs are check connectors for diagnostic purposes. The Yellow plug is the fuel check connector. Some of the other plugs appear to be for the power steering system it appears.

I did not ask what happened to the ohm value as it relates to the TPS. What you were asked is what happens to the idle speed as in rpm when the linkage is pressed upwards.

The plug in the original second pic is not for the pressure/boost sensor but an item/accessory which you likely do not have. But you do need the pressure sensor unless you have an aftermarket engine management system which does not require that particular sensor.

And it takes a long time for the engine to warm up just idling which means the idle speed will stay high for a period of time until the engine heats up sufficiently to drop the idle. Maybe you should let the engine run for 30 minutes or so and drop it into gear to see what the accurate idle speed is.

And w/your car being a Euro model, you have some strange items such as in the last pic. Appears to be the lead coil, which is much unlike those you would see on cars found in the N. America.

grzr

Oh I forgot to mention it but yes it did slow down the rpm's. I thought it had something to do with the lever being loose so I tightened the nut. I haven't tried putting it in gear after warming up but I'll try that.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The car has a temp sensor on the radiator. If the coolant is above a certain threshold the car will rev up to about 3k for 17 seconds on a cold start. If the coolant is below the threshold then the car will start up at around 1500 rpm on a cold start. It is only after the fast idle mechanism does its thing and then the rpm lowers slowly down to 750 but the car will likely need to be in gear for it to idle at that speed and it takes a long time to warm up the engine if the car is just being idled and not driven. Also, setting the TPS must be done w/the engine completely warmed up and not partially. The easiest way is w/key to on and the engine as hot as it will get the Green/Red wire of the TPS is to be set at 1 volt. If it doesn't read 1 volt then the TPS adjustment screw is used to bring it into range. Again, it takes a long time of idling to heat these engines up (from a cold start it could take 30 minutes).

grzr

I checked green connector near the intake with the multimeter. Both terminals were showing voltage, so I adjusted the screw so only one would be active. I read it on a write up, it's kinda like the factory test but with the multi. Anyway, it still idles a little too high. I warmed up the engine for a while too, I had it going at about 2000rpm with the stop screw extended so it could stay unassisted. So as I was looking around some more I notice that after I checked to plug and got the volts right, that the throttle control on the front still had play in it. I would push it up and the idle would slow down, it would sound pretty steady. I tried tightening the nut but the threads are fucked, so I moved on to the next. I tried to tighten the cable, and kinda got it to idle lower but i ran out of threads usable on the cable. I don't really want to mess with the cable too much since idk what spec it's supposed to be. I think for now I'm just going to try to repair those threads and see if I can get that actuator to rotate a little and keep it there.

Is the TPS plunger supposed to be easy to push in or is there supposed to be some resistance in it?

One last thing, where is the stop screw on the front supposed to be at?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The TPS plunger is supposed to recede fairly easy as there is just a spring behind it. There is no stop screw on the front throttle body. The G/R wire of the TPS should be set as previously mentioned, no need to complicate things here. The throttle cable should have a bunch of slack. If pressing upwards on the front throttle linkage lowers the idle then chances are the cable is too tight.