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I have a 1994 Mazda rx7 I have a new High flow Cat and racing beat dual tip exhaust expect for that it is factory. My wife just gave me the Ok to spend $5000 in parts this is what I was thinking but wanted some opinion on other options
ditch that clutch, go with ACT street and strip instead
if you really need a light flywheel also go with the ACT streetlite
don't know anything about that 2 stroke oil so can't comment
and be sure to replace the precat with a downpipe if you haven't
a set of all trailing plugs BUR9EQ non platinum
i would also recommend a wideband such as a MTX-L, not a fan of AEM
and any half decent boost gauge, such as Defi for quality
factor in the cost of a tune $500-700 since the basemaps in the PFC are for generic and light mods(ignition timing is aggressive for more mods/power).
a water injection kit is a good last safety measure and also keeps the engine decarbonized, however not necessary for anything lightly modified
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-19-15 at 11:04 AM.
Tis is slippery slope my friend from $5k to $20k. Suggest you go slow and focus on reliability first. Cooling should be priority one. New aluminum radiator and dual factory oil coolers at min. You should also get some basic gauges to measure engine temp (factory water gauge is worthless) and boost. If you haven't replaced the fuel filter, do that as well. If the vacuum hoses are original, they are probably toast as well as some of your solenoids and possibly actuators (a boost gauge will help ID any turbo control issues). The rubber connector from the Y-pipe to the transfer pipe should be replaced as well if original.
From there, you can focus on other wear items like suspension bits.
Ok, so the previous owner did replace the vacuum lines probably 6 years ago, it also has new rotors drilled and vented with hawk pads, and a turbo timer is installed as well.
Any recommendations on gauge's ?
Won't I be able to see my boost with the FC Commander?
I have yet to install my PFC, but if you have one you should be GTG in the gauge dept.
Forgot to mention the FPD (Fuel Pulsation Dampener). These fail and spew gas in your engine compartment. If original, you should replace or delete (Banzai has a guide for deleting).
Drilled rotors are ok for the street, but if you track it, they usually crack at the holes. I wouldn't replace until you start seeing cracking
Keep in mind that with that SMIC you need to relocate the battery with a drycell, it should also come with a duct already. You should seriously consider upgrading the radiator.
Thank you everyone for their recommendations
so this is now my updated list
1000 Oil cooler Link
300 Radiator Link
1375 Intercooler
200 Greddy elbow
120 Battery relocation kit
210 fuel pump
1050 ECU
60 Fuel Filter
I will wait on the clutch and flywheel until it goes out, unless you think I should do it now?
Also any recommendations on BOV I see some go for $30 and some for $300 it will be put on the Greddy elbow?
Then I still have another $600 left should I get the ignition amp?
a $30 bov is going to be a cheap chinese piece of crap.
that intercooler doesn't come with a pre-flanged bov pipe so you'd have to find a location that fits whatever you choose, and pay someone to weld the flange on.
search the blowoff sounds and pick one you like.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-22-15 at 07:33 AM.
You do not need to spend a $1000 on an "oil cooler kit" that is just some random parts in a box. It can be done for several hundred less and you can have your choice of cooler Oil Cooler Parts (93+ RX-7)
The radiator you are linking to has not existed for nearly a year, that website is not being maintained. We sell the correct product for less. Radiators (93+ RX-7)
We also sell the PFC and the commander holder you are going to want to install 93+ RX-7 Engine Management
You do not need to install a BOV, the factory one works fine for the stock twins.
The battery relocation kit for $120 is not going to include the battery. Just pointing out that if you are trying to spend every penny of $5K without going over, there are parts that you are going to need to be aware of and should leave yourself a little buffer, otherwise it could turn into $6K quickly.
Last edited by Banzai-Racing; 11-22-15 at 09:28 AM.
You do not need to spend a $1000 on an "oil cooler kit" that is just some random parts in a box. It can be done for several hundred less and you can have your choice of cooler Oil Cooler Parts (93+ RX-7)
The radiator you are linking to has not existed for nearly a year, that website is not being maintained. We sell the correct product for less. Radiators (93+ RX-7)
We also sell the PFC and the commander holder you are going to want to install 93+ RX-7 Engine Management
You do not need to install a BOV, the factory one works fine for the stock twins.
The battery relocation kit for $120 is not going to include the battery. Just pointing out that if you are trying to spend every penny of $5K without going over, there are parts that you are going to need to be aware of and should leave yourself a little buffer, otherwise it could turn into $6K quickly.
All this and more can be yours...if The Price Is Right
With any FD, it does a treacherous tightrope act right out of the factory due to its ability to produce heat being considerably greater than its cooling abilities. Heat is what kills things like vacuum lines and the turbo control solenoids. Thick Wall Silicone vacuum hose is an inexpensive item that pays dividends in reliability. Also, I STRONGLY recommend testing ALL of your solenoids and preferably relocating them so they don't crap out on you as easily from being baked.
Assuming you want a drop-in radiator, stick with a Koyo N-flo one. Converting to twin oil coolers as Banzai suggested goes hand-in-hand with replacing the radiator.
And for the love of god, switch over to a 89-91 fan switch!!! It's a no-fuss mod that will keep the car about 15 degrees cooler.
Now that you have the critical items covered, these items are what I consider to be essentials. The 99-02 Turbo Y-pipe is aluminum and won't crack like the plastic 93-98 version does from heat. The inlet elbow should be replaced with a steel/aluminum Greddy-style one for the same reason.
Last, I will say this once and only once: Battery Relocation Kits are GARBAGE and are more work and LOADS more money to make work than building one from scratch to suit your car specifically. When I relocated my battery, I visited the local welding supply store per suggestion from Aaron Cake. The cable I used was regular run-of-the-mill 4awg welding cable, purchased for ~$1 per foot. Soldered on the lug terminals (~$0.50 each) with a propane torch then routed it through the car and a 150A circuit breaker. Took about 22ft to do the positive cable run, which included making fresh cables for the starter and alternator. Ground cable is ~1ft from battery to chassis, wherever it is convenient. I just used one of the old rear seat mount bolt holes on my FC.
As for the battery mounting box itself, most of the 'kits' use the exact same plastic box you can find at Walmart for $10. They would offer practically no resistance to stop a battery from becoming a 30+lb projectile in an accident either. Put the extra $30-40 towards some angle/flat steel from your local hardware store and build one to fit where you want it to. It's a good project to learn to weld with, steel is a pretty forgiving material. While I am not too familiar with the FD behind the seats, my FC had plenty of holes from the factory to mount the box with. I just used the outboard rear seat mount, the inboard seat belt bolt hole and three holes in the bulkhead crossmember, all quite strong points that would hold up well in an accident.
My HF arc welder cost $90 and it has been an invaluable tool for multiple projects. However, in retrospect, I wish I had purchased a MIG welder with flux core wire instead.
When you talk about the 99-02 turbo y pipe this is what I found is there another one or is this a good one to get Link
So I think I finally have my list put together.
ECU
cold air intake
fuel filter
intercooler
Greddy elbow - Banzai, does the one you sell have a bov opening, do I even need it?
radiator - n-flo
Hi flow y-pipe
180 degree thermostat
185 degree fan switch
oil cooler setup as recommended by Banzai
differential brace
relocate the battery
and new belts
You do not need to spend a $1000 on an "oil cooler kit" that is just some random parts in a box. It can be done for several hundred less and you can have your choice of cooler Oil Cooler Parts (93+ RX-7)
If you are not tracking your car, a stock used passenger cooler should be sufficient. Piecing together an aftermarket setup can get as expensive as the SB kit and you have to spend the time to design it.
If you are not tracking your car, a stock used passenger cooler should be sufficient. Piecing together an aftermarket setup can get as expensive as the SB kit and you have to spend the time to design it.
I just pointed out that it was not worthwhile spending $1000 on a "kit" that is not really anything more then random parts. A more complete kit with better options can be put together for less.
I personally would not run the factory 10 row coolers on anything making more power then stock. Typically the 20+ year old cooler is also beat to hell from road debri/bugs, the fins are all smashed and clogged providing virtually no cooling at all.
Just to throw a different thought process out there: (and depends on your focus)
Do the reliability and cooling items (downpipe, radiator, temp sensors, gauges, oil cooling, etc)
Add a set of Ohlins coilovers. I believe the coilovers added more fun to the drive than more hp.
This assumes the car is in great shape with no worn out parts or delayed maintenance issues, which sounds like is the case.
And then hope that Santa comes again next year and you can add some hpde schools and a little more power cause you will be addicted!
11-19-15, 10:28 AM
